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Ex Night Rodder
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152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the process of doing the valve adjustment on my '06 DRod, and am using the factory service manual. Being an aircraft mechanic by trade, I've spent over 20 years working on sh*t in tight places with little or no room for error, so this isn't exactly my first rodeo. However I have never dug this far into a Vrod before so I am being cautious.
My question is, Is it easier to do the complete valve adjustment including final torque of the valve covers, with the engine out? I still am in the process of removing the last valve cover (fwd) and am wondering just how the heck I am going to get an accurate torque on the valve covers while having to reach through my arse like some of those bolts require? Access holes my *ss!
The manual already has me loosening the aft exhaust mount and the fwd engine mount. I already have the coolant hoses off as well as many other things. Reading the manual, it looks as though I am about halfway to having the engine out anyway.
Any suggestions?:wazzup:
 

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Color me Gone
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27,333 Posts
I doubt there is any way to torque the cam cover bolts with the engine in the bike. If you plan to use a torque wrench on those you probably will have to remove the engine.
 

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Ex Night Rodder
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152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Max, that's kind of what I suspected. Sure would be a good time to go the bigger tank kit... DAMN FINANCES!!!:banghead:
Thanks again...
Mitch
 

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The Hawk
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3,895 Posts
It would be much easier to do it with the engine out, but taking the engine out is a whole nuther can of worms. The valve cover bolt torque is not critical at all and using the ole forearm torque wrench works just fine.

Mike
 

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Blowin' Smoke
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2,647 Posts
When I did mine I found only one bolt I couldn't torque. There are access holes for most of them. I never disconnected the coolant hoses, just dropped the one bracket like the book says. One thing I did find out: there is no way to keep a gasket in place in the cover like the book says and work the cover around into place for installation. Just be very careful to verify the gaskets are in the correct places before tightening things up.
 

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"A" is the only way
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3,349 Posts
Elgavilan said:
It would be much easier to do it with the engine out, but taking the engine out is a whole nuther can of worms. The valve cover bolt torque is not critical at all and using the ole forearm torque wrench works just fine.

Mike

I would agree, I think for the pita it is pulling the motor and putting it back in I would just go with the guess with the forearm, it's not very much either for torque so...., you could practice on the alt cover or clutch cover as those are the same torque.
 

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Premium Member
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3,923 Posts
mechmitch said:
I am in the process of doing the valve adjustment on my '06 DRod, and am using the factory service manual. Being an aircraft mechanic by trade, I've spent over 20 years working on sh*t in tight places with little or no room for error, so this isn't exactly my first rodeo. However I have never dug this far into a Vrod before so I am being cautious.
My question is, Is it easier to do the complete valve adjustment including final torque of the valve covers, with the engine out? I still am in the process of removing the last valve cover (fwd) and am wondering just how the heck I am going to get an accurate torque on the valve covers while having to reach through my arse like some of those bolts require? Access holes my *ss!
The manual already has me loosening the aft exhaust mount and the fwd engine mount. I already have the coolant hoses off as well as many other things. Reading the manual, it looks as though I am about halfway to having the engine out anyway.
Any suggestions?:wazzup:
what mileage are you at? ive read some conflicting opinions as to whether this check and possible adjustment is really necessary,especially at the recommended mileage.
 

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Ex Night Rodder
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152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok. Job all finished. I can tell you that the job can be done with the motor in, just dropped down at least the 1/2 inch like the manual recommends. (3/4-1 inch is actually better to get the rear valve cover off). There were only about 3 valve cover bolts that required unconventional torque methods but everything else was accomplished with a set of cheapie long ball-drive metric allen wrench socket things. I had three valves that required thicker shims. 3,4, and 6. They were out by .008 to .0105 inch (I know, I know, the manual is in metric but I had to convert everything since my feeler gauges and mics were in thousands of an inch).
If anyone is going to do their own, check out the shim calculator spreadsheet that sgtrage made. That thing is freakin' awesome. It even has the HD part numbers for you. Somebody buy that man a beer.:cheers:
 

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I'm Bored
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1,741 Posts
mechmitch said:
If anyone is going to do their own, check out the shim calculator spreadsheet that sgtrage made. That thing is freakin' awesome. It even has the HD part numbers for you. Somebody buy that man a beer.:cheers:
Glad it helped you. I made that after I had screwed up the calculations about three times at 2:00 AM in the morning. If I ever get the time I'll modify it so that it automatically selects the part number for you and you wont have to use the drop downs.
 

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Registered
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258 Posts
sgtrage said:
If I ever get the time I'll modify it so that it automatically selects the part number for you and you wont have to use the drop downs.
How about if we just gave you a small donation to expedite the update???? I for one would gladly send you some money for your time in providing this invaluable little program for the rest of us!!!!!:notworth:
 

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I'm Bored
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1,741 Posts
tnvrod said:
How about if we just gave you a small donation to expedite the update???? I for one would gladly send you some money for your time in providing this invaluable little program for the rest of us!!!!!:notworth:

I'll try and get to it this weekend. In the meantime, looking up the part number isn't a big deal and the sheet works fine as is.
 

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"A" is the only way
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3,349 Posts
sgtrage said:
I'll try and get to it this weekend. In the meantime, looking up the part number isn't a big deal and the sheet works fine as is.

I thought it worked pretty good, I did have to order 2 different shims as the ones I ordered didn't get the job done, but it was no big deal
 
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