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This is cheap 3bar drop fit MAP which works with DTT. Unfortunately quality ain't best and one already broke. Lid flew away. It is wise to keep few in the shelf.

LS1 style 3 bar MAP sensor

Currently I have used Bosch MAP with 1ft hose. Short hose ain't really problem since pressure waves moves at the speed of sound and it won't cause delay problems. Biggest issue is to find suitable and reliable nipple for the sensor hole. I found one plastic 90deg elbow nipple and secured it with aluminium bracket.

 

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Max spark would be as far as you want to push it. No limits in the tables that I can see. Two guys I know log with PV to look for knock events via ion sensing of the stock ECM. There's a logger called POD 300, used with PCV also. I don't remember if it shows knock events or not but it has a short log time so not a fan of it. You can pick up a used PV already married to a bike from someone else cheap enough. It will still work for viewing signals and creating logs on any other HD that uses J1850. Those would be PV1 or PV1B. B is for black as they dropped the chrome version.
Then you can monitor how far you can push the timing in PCV tables. They are not actual timing numbers but trims you +/- areas which in turn modify the bikes cal timing numbers. In this example, stock timing is all zeros. Added timing in the red circle. This example shows one table for both front and rear adjustment. You can go timing advanced to show a table for each cylinder so you can modify each one separately.
Ron
This is really helpful stuff guys! Thank you for your detailed explanations! My dyno guy had me buy an American made 3 Bar MAP sensor of the original ACDelco type (which ACDelco is now made in China) that he said would work with the DTT. Since he's super knowledgeable about the DTT I'm going to follow his advice and use that. He will be able to tune out knock he said and I'll be running VP C-16 exclusively on this S/C bike. Again at his directing. I understand what John says about needing multiple tuning sessions. I'm prepared for this idea. Only problem is I'll be getting the bike back from his December dyno session and will have to wait out the winter to street it. Then autotune and probably back to the Dyno?

My final required parts...crank bearings from England arrived yesterday. After MWT I'll hit my shop and start the tear down. I'll be making YouTube videos of the process so I'll probably continue this discussion in my TTS-Performance thread or start a new one where I can link photos and videos to document my progress. This isn't my first complete tear down and rebuild but it is the first V-Rod I will be doing myself.

I got my start with my 2003 Deuce. Tore it down to the frame in 2005 and rebuilt into a 98.6 HP High Torque Combustion Chamber (HTCC) setup. It wasn't hard as most everything I used were direct replacement Screamin' Eagle components. But it was a good start and I did the initial tune myself with the Screamin' Eagle Pro Super Tuner before sending it to the dyno after a 500 mile street break in. I got to over 55K miles on that build before moving on to a 2008 Nightster. But I wish I never let that Deuce go! Guy who bought it is still rocking it.

The Nightster required way more maintenance than just "want to" rebuild like the Deuce. I ended up replacing everything and I mean everything but the frame on that Nightster and then after 66K miles old it to buy my first 2003 VRSCA. In the mean time I was buying $1000 Ironheads and stripping them to part out on eBay. I did 4 of those and have rebuilt one from scratch for a guy who heard I knew what was inside them. His couldn't shift.

Then after my VRSCA was totaled by a drunk driver I took my funds from the insurance payout and have been rebuilding my second 2003 VRSCA CTHULHU as I saw fit. I extracted the engine and took it down to Gowanda Harley-Davidson in 2018 and they built me a nice street-able racing setup. I've been tweaking peripheral things ever since but this season I've got it exactly where I want it. I tuned it myself with ThunderMax and I'm at MWT right now where I hope to win the 1130cc dyno shoot out Saturday. I have no idea what numbers to expect but I'm optimistic. My best drag run this season was an 11.90 at 112 mph with over 0.6 reaction time.

Thanks for helping guys with advice for my S/C 2003 and I will keep y'all posted!

Sean
My general opinion is go with what the tuner is most familiar with and his favorite tool. The only way he can tune out detonation in a safe manor is have it so rich it won't detonate. If one listens for it to happen, it's too late and some damage might happen. Ion sensing picks it up way before it's audible and will pull timing if needed to save it's ass. I'm sure it will be fine if he knows his stuff. Dyno is one thing but road tuning, one needs that knock data reference, especially starting from scratch on a calibration.
Ron
 

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As far as 3 bar and tying it in. I removed the 1 bar. The hole it fits in is correct size for a 1/16" NPT tap. I tapped it & installed a 90 degree 1/16" NPT to 1/4" hose fitting. Then made a small manifold that accepts the 1 bar MAP on 1 side & 3 bar on the other. From there small section of high temp plastic hose tying the manifold & fitting on bike together. Viola.... 1 bar for stock ECM & 3 bar for the PCV... Works REALLY well and is hidden. Plus takes reading from stock location. Win / win
John
 

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