On my Subaru, when you hit the high beam, both the HIGH and LOW beam lamps are lit.BigGbigO said:Is that configuration street legal? Or will you have to reverse that to pass a state inspection.
So just remember that if you pull off to the side of the road, and put your hazzard flashers on, drop to low beam....stever975 said:I can think of a possible problem if you run this dual headlamp setup:
According to published information the output rating for the VRSC alternator (regulator controlled) is 36 amps. That's 522 W @ 14.4 VDC (also controlled by the regulator).
If you add up the various loads on the alternator (this is a worst case situation):
1) low beam, rated 55 W @ 12.8 V or 70.58 W @ 14.5 V
2) high beam, rated 65.3 W @ 12.8 V or 83.8 W @ 14.5 V
3) tail lamp, rated 8.3 W @ 14 V or 8.9 W @ 14.5 V
4) stop lamp, rated 28.8 W @ 12.8 V or 36.96 W @ 14.5 V
5) frt.running lamps, rated 8.3 W @ 14 V or 8.9 W @ 14.5 V (X2)
6) four-way flashers, rated 28.8 W @ 12.8 V or 36.96 W @ 14.5 V (X4)
7) license lamps, rated 4.6 W @ 14 V or 4.93 W @ 14.5 V (X2)
8) ECM/TSSM/misc, 1 W @ 14.5 V (approx)
9) radiator fans, 85 w @ 14.5 V (X2)
total power requirement: approximately 547 W
This exceeds the available power by about 25 W. I know it's unlikely to need all these things at once but it is possible and running both headlamps doesn't help.
Will this allow the low beam to be on by itself, i.e. high beam off, when the switch is set to the low beam position?rjrivero said:Simple to do. On the left hand control, make a jumper between the yellow and blue wire. It is easy to do on the grey 6 pin connector under your left side cover.
Yes.Sinbad said:Will this allow the low beam to be on by itself, i.e. high beam off, when the switch is set to the low beam position?
stever975 said:I can think of a possible problem if you run this dual headlamp setup:
According to published information the output rating for the VRSC alternator (regulator controlled) is 36 amps. That's 522 W @ 14.4 VDC (also controlled by the regulator).
If you add up the various loads on the alternator (this is a worst case situation):
1) low beam, rated 55 W @ 12.8 V or 70.58 W @ 14.5 V
2) high beam, rated 65.3 W @ 12.8 V or 83.8 W @ 14.5 V
3) tail lamp, rated 8.3 W @ 14 V or 8.9 W @ 14.5 V
4) stop lamp, rated 28.8 W @ 12.8 V or 36.96 W @ 14.5 V
5) frt.running lamps, rated 8.3 W @ 14 V or 8.9 W @ 14.5 V (X2)
6) four-way flashers, rated 28.8 W @ 12.8 V or 36.96 W @ 14.5 V (X4)
7) license lamps, rated 4.6 W @ 14 V or 4.93 W @ 14.5 V (X2)
8) ECM/TSSM/misc, 1 W @ 14.5 V (approx)
9) radiator fans, 85 w @ 14.5 V (X2)
total power requirement: approximately 547 W
This exceeds the available power by about 25 W. I know it's unlikely to need all these things at once but it is possible and running both headlamps doesn't help.
Bendvrod said:devlpr,
How do you like your HD LED tail/stop? I assume you mean the rear turn signal mod into stop/tail/turn.
Yes. Significantly so, if you use LED TURN SIGNALS, AND an LED TAIL LIGHT.devlpr said:I have the new HD LED Tail/Stop Light as well as aftermarket LED signals. Wouldn't that provide a reduced draw and a greater buffer?
Sounds like a great excuse to buy a Heavycycles light!stever975 said:This exceeds the available power by about 25 W. I know it's unlikely to need all these things at once but it is possible and running both headlamps doesn't help.
The LED taillight, as you said, is a significant benefit but I'm not real sure about the benefits of LED turn signals. What's the load of the required load equalizer? Regardless the signals are intermittent so there not as much of a concern.rjrivero said:Yes. Significantly so, if you use LED TURN SIGNALS, AND an LED TAIL LIGHT.
I knew someone was gonna ask. I can take a few pictures tomorrow.devlpr said:If anyone has a photo of this circuit board and the "jump" made that would be great!