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I think Cheatin is the one who gets credit for this, but the belt is at approximately the right tension if it takes a lot of force to twist the bottom span to vertical with your fingers. Again, this is a rough estimate... but is should be very tough to twist it that far.
 

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Steppenwolf said:
I think Cheatin is the one who gets credit for this, but the belt is at approximately the right tension if it takes a lot of force to twist the bottom span to vertical with your fingers. Again, this is a rough estimate... but is should be very tough to twist it that far.
What Steppenwolf said but the gauge is well worth the money if you plan on doing your own service. You might trying marking the axle with a line and just line it back up when you put the tire back on, but I don't know if that would work right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Night Rodder said:
What Steppenwolf said but the gauge is well worth the money if you plan on doing your own service. You might trying marking the axle with a line and just line it back up when you put the tire back on, but I don't know if that would work right.
I agree that if you are saving money doing your own service you should be more than able to purchace the necessary tools or equipment and still be farther ahead. I will try what Steppenwolf says and order up the HD guage. Any idea on how much they will soak me for the guage?
 

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I believe mine was only $15 to $20. cant remember for sure but wasnt that much. And you can use it on other belt drive harleys. Enclosed instructions didnt have specs for v-rod so get them and write them down on the instructions so you dont have to look them up
 

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Belt Tension Gauge

I bought my gauge from Hales Harley and it cost $19.96. It really is a must to get the correct tension. No offense to Cheatin's method, but Harley states not to twist the belt in anyway.
 

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Steppenwolf said:
I think Cheatin is the one who gets credit for this, but the belt is at approximately the right tension if it takes a lot of force to twist the bottom span to vertical with your fingers. Again, this is a rough estimate... but is should be very tough to twist it that far.
Yes! And that twist should be at the same spot that you would use the H-D tool. I have the H-D tool and found that method to be a good indicator and in agreement with the tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bruce Helland said:
I believe mine was only $15 to $20. cant remember for sure but wasnt that much. And you can use it on other belt drive harleys. Enclosed instructions didnt have specs for v-rod so get them and write them down on the instructions so you dont have to look them up
Right on. I have a service manual with all the specs. I think it is 10 lbs. for the "A" and 6lbs. for one of the other rods.
 

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sferner said:
Right on. I have a service manual with all the specs. I think it is 10 lbs. for the "A" and 6lbs. for one of the other rods.
10 lbs. and 3/8 of an inch for the '05 CVO.
 

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sferner said:
Right on. I have a service manual with all the specs. I think it is 10 lbs. for the "A" and 6lbs. for one of the other rods.
bikerabbi said:
10 lbs. and 3/8 of an inch for the '05 CVO.
All HD bikes use 10 lbs as the test force (there's only one mark on the gauge). Different models have different deflection specs (due to the length of the belt and procedure for testing).

6 mm @ 10 lbs is the deflection for the VRSCA/B '02 to '05 with the bike upright, in neutral, no rider on bike.

3/8" (>9 mm) seems like too much deflection for any V-Rod belt.
 

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its real easy to get it to tight, belt will make a strange noise it will be noticable just when moving your bike by hand and you may see grease leaking from the bearing and flung onto your wheel (been there). a little loose is way better then a tad to tight
 

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stever975 said:
All HD bikes use 10 lbs as the test force (there's only one mark on the gauge). Different models have different deflection specs (due to the length of the belt and procedure for testing).

6 mm @ 10 lbs is the deflection for the VRSCA/B '02 to '05 with the bike upright, in neutral, no rider on bike.

3/8" (>9 mm) seems like too much deflection for any V-Rod belt.
I'll have to check some conversions later: The VRSCSE manual on page 2-19 says that belt deflection is to be "6mm (3/8)". Are there figures incorrect?
 

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bikerabbi said:
I'll have to check some conversions later: The VRSCSE manual on page 2-19 says that belt deflection is to be "6mm (3/8)". Are there figures incorrect?
If that's what's printed then it's wrong 3/8" = 0.375" = 9.525 mm the proper deflection is 6 mm = 0.236" (< ¼")
 

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258C1 said:
I bought my gauge from Hales Harley and it cost $19.96. It really is a must to get the correct tension. No offense to Cheatin's method, but Harley states not to twist the belt in anyway.

If we listened to everything HD had to say, we would still be underfilling our crankcases by 1/2 quart....enough said....
 

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stever975 said:
All HD bikes use 10 lbs as the test force (there's only one mark on the gauge). Different models have different deflection specs (due to the length of the belt and procedure for testing).

6 mm @ 10 lbs is the deflection for the VRSCA/B '02 to '05 with the bike upright, in neutral, no rider on bike.

3/8" (>9 mm) seems like too much deflection for any V-Rod belt.

Double check that...I am pretty sure that it says with rider on the bike...

But I have been informed the oil capacty changed from 4.5 to 5 quarts...why not change the belt too?
 

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myvrodrocks said:
Double check that...I am pretty sure that it says with rider on the bike...
Negative: "It says no rider, bike upright". (As opposed to on it's side stand, I guess.)
 

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myvrodrocks said:
Double check that...I am pretty sure that it says with rider on the bike...

But I have been informed the oil capacty changed from 4.5 to 5 quarts...why not change the belt too?
What I posted is fairly close to what's written on page 1-25 of the '05 Service Manual:

"See Figure 1-36. Check rear belt tension with motorcycle cold, standing upright, transmission in NEUTRAL and no rider on motorcycle."

I will agree that the manuals aren't always correct and have several printing errors that make using them interesting at times.
 

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stever975 said:
If that's what's printed then it's wrong 3/8" = 0.375" = 9.525 mm the proper deflection is 6 mm = 0.236" (< ¼")
Wow - thanks. I thought it felt a bit looser than when I first took the wheel off.
 

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myvrodrocks said:
If the manual says 3/8 inch and you insist that is wrong, then where do you get your 6mm and what makes you think that is right?

I am not fighting, just making sure...
See post #12 above.
 
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