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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I drilled out, very slightly, my stockpipes. Very little louder, but enough for me. I just got the Hollow Points (for looks) and notice the ends are different (i.e.end caps). Has anyone tried drilling these out? I do not want the bike to be loud, just a litte bit......

thx

Greg
 

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I took the entire baffle out and put a 1 3/4 straight pipe inside mine. It was too loud. I ended up turning the straight pipe into a home made baffle - toned it down a lot, it's got a nice rumble.

Just to note I had to open up the end and re-weld it back, as the baffle won't pull straight ot if you just cut arout it on the end.

Love the sound, even the dealer complimented me on it.
 

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hackenfort said:
Just to note I had to open up the end and re-weld it back, as the baffle won't pull straight ot if you just cut arout it on the end.
Well, dang that answers that question. I bought another set of hole saws last weekend so I could have a 2" to cut around the baffle. I thought I saw a thread that said the hollow point baffle would pull straight out the back like the stock pipe.

Do you have any pics of the original hollow point baffle? I don't have a welder, so re-welding is out of the question for me. I'm wondering if there is a way to get it part way out, cut it and pull the rest out. Is it press fit in the front like the stock pipe?

I'm keeping my stock pipes in original condition in case they ever start "sniffing" during the inspection. I got a feeling that is coming here to Dallas befoer too long.
 

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Sorry no pictures.... tossed them out the day I removed them.

I wonder if you could use JB Weld on the back end to hold the plate in place if you don't have access to a welder. I know they make a high heat version.

One nice thing the way I did it, you can pull out the new baffles and change them or run with out any in about 1 min. I used slightly larger washers to hold on the end cap, which entend over the edge of the new baffle.
 

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So, what prevents them from coming straight out? Do they have a bulge or a bend or...? I love JB Weld, but I don't know how well it would hold up to that kind of heat and vibration (even high temp stuff).

Can you post pics of the washers holding in the new baffles to the gallery later? I'm anxious to see what you did. Maybe take some pics of the homemade baffles next time you have them out too?

Thanks in advance.
 

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From memory, I think the hollow points use the same baffle as the stock mufflers, they used two pipes with 1 3/4" ends they narrow down and are pressed together in and welded in the center, this make the center section wider and flatter.

When I cut the rear of the muffler, I cut around the mounting plate (closest to exit, about just under 2"). But I could not slide it the baffle out of either end. I tried everything I could think of, with no luck, so I cut the back end out.

For the new baffle, straight pipe was just too loud, so I put a bunch of 3/8" holes in the last 8" of the new baffle, and cut two a slot in the front end of the baffle, and bent the tab down, to make the exhaust flow into the chamber.

The local mufflers shops gave me the 1 3/4 pipe - I think I used about 17" and 20" - as both mufflers are different lengths.

When I can I will take a few pictures.
 

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Yes it looked just like that.... I cut as close as I could to the inner mounting cicrcle on the Hollow Points, and could not get it out...

I don't remember the size but it was under 2". In fact the 1 3/4" pipe fits rather snug next to the mounting bracket. I thought about removing the rear bracket but couldn't come up with a good way to remount the end cap what would look un-modified.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hackenfort, would there have been any wayto drill some extra holes without all the cutting and welding? It doesn't sound like it, but what you did it way beyond my capabilities

thx

greg
 

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gregbenner said:
Hackenfort, would there have been any wayto drill some extra holes without all the cutting and welding? It doesn't sound like it, but what you did it way beyond my capabilities

thx

greg
My:2cents: :

Yes, before I shortened my hollow points, I had bored holes in both the inlet and outlet ends of my baffles using a drill bit extender and a die grinder bit. I was able to cut a good size hole in the wall of the baffle by leveraging the bit extender against the end of the pipe while grinding - pretty quick and simple, really. By grinding both ends, I opened up a straight path for the exhaust, though the tone was still slightly muted due to the baffle remaining present and somewhat in the flow. Due to the length of the muffler can, however, I found the sound to be pretty hollow and very loud, but not particularly deep, at highway speeds. So, I eventually cut my cans down in length, completely removing the baffle. I, then, attached a galvanized conduit flange (11/2", I think - just under 4" OD), after drilling relief holes around the perimeter of threaded opening, to the Hollow point end cap using stainless hex screws and nuts. I threaded a length of 11/2" nipple into the flange which extends into the can about 2/3's of the way to the inlet (with the end cap installed). I seated the end cap onto the muffler can end with a rawhide hammer, drilled a hole at the edge of the cap, through the muffler can, on the side towards the rear wheel and secured with a tapping screw. I had also drilled a series of holes around the outlet perimeter of the end caps to offer some restriction relief to the exhaust, as the 11/2" nipple is of a slightly smaller diameter than the header pipes.

I've run the bike without the flange installed and found the exhaust tone to be very "Harley" like, but way too loud for extended trips. With the flange installed, the motor pulls well from low revs and sounds deep (like an air-cooled) at the same time. Mid range power is very good and the bike comes ALIVE above 5500RPM - VERY strong, while the exhaust note is that of a well-bred track bike. Coincidentally, the overall volume at cruising speeds is less painful, but deeper, than with the bored baffles installed in the full-length pipes. So, it is quite acceptable on the freeway (I don't even suffer without earplugs anymore), while certainly loud enough to compete with the aircoolers (and let drivers know where the bike is)!

There are some pics in my gallery (the sound file is outdated - the current sound is deeper and louder), though I have shortened the lower muffler can some for a more aesthetic look. As well, my PCIII map file is in the EFI/PCIII Map section. :D
 

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here is a quick picture of the back

Yes you can drill holes on the inside of the baffle, without removing it. It will add some tone, but not near as nice sounding.
 

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Ok, so basing this on a 2" hole saw, I'm thinking that rascal ought to pull straight out of there. Then I can fab some baffles from 2" exhaust pipe if it's too loud. I can always go back stock too... that's why I kept the OEM pipes.

Thanks for the pics... I think this might be fun.
 

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gtrman66 said:
Ok, so basing this on a 2" hole saw, I'm thinking that rascal ought to pull straight out of there. Then I can fab some baffles from 2" exhaust pipe if it's too loud. I can always go back stock too... that's why I kept the OEM pipes.

Thanks for the pics... I think this might be fun.

I am very pleased with the way mine came out and I think ti sounds great.

I too thought once I cut the rear, the baffle would pull right out, but mine didn't. I'm not sure where the 2" size is comming from but mine measured 1 3/4" at the front opening and at the rear exit of the muffler. There is a little wiggle room around the mouting for the rear tip, but I coun't get a full 2".

Take care

Kevin
 

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Yeah, 2" is too big (but will work on the OEM pipe). I measured 1.875 (1-7/8") inside the mounting ring.

Does anyone have an old hollowpoint baffle they can measure the OD of real quick? If I can find an 1-7/8" hole saw, will it slide out?
 

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I took off one of my '06 R mufflers today to scope it out. They are straight thru, with only two small humps to deflect sound into the outer baffles. It appears that 8 or so 1/2" holes in each end cap are all that is needed to let he rowdy out and still retain optimal backpressure. I had done that on mine and don't feel that going the full gut the inside process is worth the effort, sound or performance wise.
 

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swampboogiedoug said:
I took off one of my '06 R mufflers today to scope it out. They are straight thru, with only two small humps to deflect sound into the outer baffles. It appears that 8 or so 1/2" holes in each end cap are all that is needed to let he rowdy out and still retain optimal backpressure. I had done that on mine and don't feel that going the full gut the inside process is worth the effort, sound or performance wise.
Doug, There a pic on http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40636

That's the OEM pipes. We talking about pulling the baffles on the Hollow Points which is the only custom pipe the moco sells for our beloved R. I think the baffles are the same, but there is a mounting ring on the back of the HP's which makes it difficult to extract the baffles.

Since the HP's are 50 state legal, I am considering another option (path of least resistance)... pull the baffles form the OEM pipes instead. I like the way they look too.
 

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I mean switching directions, leave the HP's alone and pull the baffles out of the stock pipes.

Of course, after sleeping on it, now I'm thinking of drilling the stock pipes first to hear how that sounds (then if not loud enough, pulling the baffles) and keeping the HP's on the shelf in case the gestapo starts monitoring the exhaust here.
 

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Screws Out...



End Caps Off...



And 1-7/8" is the biggest hole saw that will fit, so I'm thinking the baffles ain't coming out the hole.
 
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