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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good Day All... Looking for some incite on if I should clean the valves from the top while the engine is running, while it's not running, or don't clean them at all?
VRSCB
with the air box off and the throttle held open, I can see two valves on the front cylinder and two on the rear cylinder have moderate deposits on them.
 

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Good Day All... Looking for some incite on if I should clean the valves from the top while the engine is running, while it's not running, or don't clean them at all?
VRSCB
with the air box off and the throttle held open, I can see two valves on the front cylinder and two on the rear cylinder have moderate deposits on them.
I assume you are talking the intake valves? Strangely enough I started to get some too a couple of years ago. Started using Shell V power and low and behold the damn things are clean now. You could try some sea foam in the gas or some other product that claims the same and see if over time it cleans them up. The basic cause is these multi port injection deals spray fuel on a hot valve and deposits form over time. I was skeptical on the V power claims and only use it because a new station opened up close to me. Shit actually does what it claims. Only weird thing is the valve heads on the intakes turned black but they are clean now.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I assume you are talking the intake valves? Strangely enough I started to get some too a couple of years ago. Started using Shell V power and low and behold the damn things are clean now. You could try some sea foam in the gas or some other product that claims the same and see if over time it cleans them up. The basic cause is these multi port injection deals spray fuel on a hot valve and deposits form over time. I was skeptical on the V power claims and only use it because a new station opened up close to me. Shit actually does what it claims. Only weird thing is the valve heads on the intakes turned black but they are clean now.
Ron
Yes the intake valves are what I'm seeing form the top. I will pick up some seafoam on the way home today and start using the Shell V Power and will see what happens.

Thank you Ron for the feedback. I'll follow back up with you in a few weeks / and take some before and after pics
 

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Yes the intake valves are what I'm seeing form the top. I will pick up some seafoam on the way home today and start using the Shell V Power and will see what happens.

Thank you Ron for the feedback. I'll follow back up with you in a few weeks / and take some before and after pics
Shell took a lot longer. How long, not sure, as noticed the build up during the fall and next fall, they were clean. Didn't check part way through the season. By the way, some of that crud is from oil mist from the crankcase breather as well as fuel deposits.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Shell took a lot longer. How long, not sure, as noticed the build up during the fall and next fall, they were clean. Didn't check part way through the season. By the way, some of that crud is from oil mist from the crankcase breather as well as fuel deposits.
Ron
Understood, not looking for a magical fix or time line. But want it to last and be running efficiently.
Michael
 

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for 10 years in my chevrolet car, and for 6 years in my vrscx i use shell V-power. it cost a little more a gallon/liter but i dont ride that much miles/kilometers so the profit of clean injectors f/ fuel system is important for me.
this winter in replaced after 13 years my IAC, and thats the first hardware i replaced.

just my opinion.
 

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for 10 years in my chevrolet car, and for 6 years in my vrscx i use shell V-power. it cost a little more a gallon/liter but i dont ride that much miles/kilometers so the profit of clean injectors f/ fuel system is important for me.
this winter in replaced after 13 years my IAC, and thats the first hardware i replaced.

just my opinion.
So, are your intake valves clean too?
Ron
 

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I agree, guys- Shell 93 Octane V Power is the ONLY fuel I put in my R Model, unless I'm out of my habit trail and can't find a Shell Station, which is rare in Central FL. I've commented on this before, but to me the best approach is if your valves and intake tract are pretty badly carboned up confirm the cylinder with the intake valves closed, use throttle lock to hold butterfly's open & just spray sea foam on the areas ( don't flood it ) and let it work it's magic for a couple hours - then take a set of long forceps with a small ball of shop towel in the jaws and gently clean out the contamination, throwing out the small towel ball and replacing it with a clean one , re-spray, over and over till all that crusty crap is outta there. Be patient, don't scrape anything up. Bump the engine with the starter, ( don't hold throttle open it may start) but get the other cylinder to have the valves closed and repeat the process. Add some Sea Foam to the gas and run it long enough on a ride to blow it out and get it up to temperature. This helps in keeping the hard carbon out of the rings and the valve seats which causes friction & wear - fit a better oil separator, run Shell 93 and never look back !
 

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I run a small amount of B12 Chemtool in my tank about once a month in riding season. I think it makes me feel better than actually doing anything 🤪
 

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Max, the originator of this forum worked for GM for many years, he always recommended a Top End Cleaner product sold through GM dealers and available in their parts departments.
Similar products may be available at your local auto parts stores.
 

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The original Top Engine Cleaner was fantastic. But sadly no longer available due to EPA regulations. Sea foam has an aerosol, as does CRC- both work decently well. The products marked for Gasoline Direct Injection tend to be a bit more aggressive also.
Another product that works well as a fuel additive is Techron (by Chevron). Also sold under a GM part number at dealers, as well as everywhere else.
 

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There's a procedure i use to give my motors a deep scrub. I used to do it before an emission test when I lived in CO just because. Not sure how much it helped but it certinely scrubbs out your engine.

1) Start by popping the airbox off exposing the velocity stacks. Between the velocity stacks is the IAC pinlet cutout.
2) Start the bike up and give it a minute just to stabilize.
3) Slowly trickle in seafoam directly into the IAC intake.
4) As the motor boggs down, give it slight amounts of throttle just to keep the motor going. It will sound horrible as your essentially starving your motor of oxygen but your also coating the entire intake track and piston top in concentrated seafoam.
5) I run ~1C (230mL) of seafoam directly into the IAC inlet and the last oz or so of seafoam, I add with the intention of actually starving and stalling out the motor.
6) Let the motor sit for ~20min after which wheel the bike outside and point the exhaust towards the most annoying neighbor on the block. if no annoying neighbors are present point the exhaust away from yourself . Be mindful of wind direction.
7) Start the bike up. It'll take a few kicks to cycle out the seafoam and get the AFR to a ratio it can sustain but it will eventually catch and start billowing out plumes of spent carbon. All that crap was in combustion chamber, intake track, and piston tops.
8) After the billowing soot subsides enough that it doesn't look like you popped a ring, hop on your bike go for long-ish highway cruise. You want to get the motor hot and start cycling air through it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There's a procedure i use to give my motors a deep scrub. I used to do it before an emission test when I lived in CO just because. Not sure how much it helped but it certinely scrubbs out your engine.

1) Start by popping the airbox off exposing the velocity stacks. Between the velocity stacks is the IAC pinlet cutout.
2) Start the bike up and give it a minute just to stabilize.
3) Slowly trickle in seafoam directly into the IAC intake.
4) As the motor boggs down, give it slight amounts of throttle just to keep the motor going. It will sound horrible as your essentially starving your motor of oxygen but your also coating the entire intake track and piston top in concentrated seafoam.
5) I run ~1C (230mL) of seafoam directly into the IAC inlet and the last oz or so of seafoam, I add with the intention of actually starving and stalling out the motor.
6) Let the motor sit for ~20min after which wheel the bike outside and point the exhaust towards the most annoying neighbor on the block. if no annoying neighbors are present point the exhaust away from yourself . Be mindful of wind direction.
7) Start the bike up. It'll take a few kicks to cycle out the seafoam and get the AFR to a ratio it can sustain but it will eventually catch and start billowing out plumes of spent carbon. All that crap was in combustion chamber, intake track, and piston tops.
8) After the billowing soot subsides enough that it doesn't look like you popped a ring, hop on your bike go for long-ish highway cruise. You want to get the motor hot and start cycling air through it.
Great rebuild picks / a lot of work went into that...
 

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I think it makes me feel better than actually doing anything 🤪
Gotta love that feeling! (y)

6) Let the motor sit for ~20min after which wheel the bike outside and point the exhaust towards the most annoying neighbor on the block. if no annoying neighbors are present point the exhaust away from yourself . Be mindful of wind direction.
Haha!! :)
 
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8) After the billowing soot subsides enough that it doesn't look like you popped a ring, hop on your bike go for long-ish highway cruise. You want to get the motor hot and start cycling air through it.
dimebag is there any way I could hook this up to dump in seafoam on demand and operate as a carbon, oil & soot mosquito sprayer when I have someone on my A$$ riding down the road ? That right there would be fun as the front of their car & windshield would get a nice conformal burned Sea Foam & Carbon coating causing them to back the F Off !! (y) :LOL:
 
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