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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, troubleshooting my hopefully last electrical issue with the bike.

Hooked up my new fancy motogadget LED run/brake/turn signals and found an issue. Basically, the red/yellow Brake light wire is outputting 6v with no Brake applied when it should be 0. It outputs 12v when applied.

If I unplug the diode pack, the taillight goes out and the run lights work as expected.

I also have the codes c1095 and c1215 that I can't seem to clear.

Could this be as simple as the diode pack?

I recall plugging the Biketronics load equalizer in the rear harness when I first got it. Blew lots of fuses before I realized it had to go up front. I wonder if that may have caused this issue.

Looking for any help. I'm praying it's not the abs ecu. I can't take this pos apart again! :)

Thanks!!


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...Hooked up my new fancy motogadget LED run/brake/turn signals and found an issue. Basically, the red/yellow Brake light wire is outputting 6v with no Brake applied when it should be 0. It outputs 12v when applied.

If I unplug the diode pack, the taillight goes out and the run lights work as expected.

I also have the codes c1095 and c1215 that I can't seem to clear.

Could this be as simple as the diode pack?

I recall plugging the Biketronics load equalizer in the rear harness when I first got it. Blew lots of fuses before I realized it had to go up front. I wonder if that may have caused this issue.

Looking for any help. I'm praying it's not the abs ecu. I can't take this pos apart again!...
I'd try unplugging the ABS ECU and measuring voltage on the R/BN (red with brown stripe) and the PK/BN (pink with brown stripe) wires at the ABS diode pack (with the diode pack plugged in). If you still see 6 V with no brake applied and 12 V with brake applied, you likely have a problem with the ABS diode pack. This also indicates a problem with the motogadget device since that 6 V signal shouldn't be present on the R/Y stop lamp wire when the brakes aren't applied. If the 6 V signal goes away with the ABS ECU unplugged, the problem is likely in the ABS ECU.

Concerning your load equalizer comment, moving from the rear harness to the front doesn't make sense electrically. The TSM/TSSM/HFSM has only one left and one right side blinker circuit. It can't distinguish front or rear so it shouldn't matter where the additional load is located. Also, the turn signal circuits don't connect to the stop lamp circuit unless there's a problem with an installed STOP/TURN/TAIL module.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Stever,
Thanks for the response. I saw another post you responded to I believe that was very similar too which was very helpful.

How does one check the diode wires while it's plugged in? I guess I have to strip some of the insulation back, eh?

I don't think the issue is with the motogadget lights. The 6V is measured at the stock harness without any taillight connected and no brakes applied. It jumps to 12V on the R/Y when brakes are applied.

As far as the blinker circuit, you're right it doesn't touch the tail circuit. My fault. FWIW, it did cause issues plugging that load eq into the rear harness rather than the front. The instructions say front and I figured it didn't matter. I kept blowing my lighting fuse while it was plugged into the rear harness. As soon as I plugged it in up front, everything worked properly. Weird.

Thanks again for the help! I'll report back.

Praying for the $9.00 fix and not the $400+time/labor "fix".
 

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Hey Stever,
Thanks for the response. I saw another post you responded to I believe that was very similar too which was very helpful.

How does one check the diode wires while it's plugged in? I guess I have to strip some of the insulation back, eh?...
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To do it "right" you need a "BOB" = breakout box that plugs in between the two. Since that's not a very likely option, the next best way is using jumper cables between the two or "needle" probes into the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
To do it "right" you need a "BOB" = breakout box that plugs in between the two. Since that's not a very likely option, the next best way is using jumper cables between the two or "needle" probes into the wires.
I'll have to pick up some needle probes tomorrow unless this helps:

Here are some test results.

Unplugged front brake harness. No change, 6v at R/Y wire. Plugged back in.

Unplugged abs ecu - 0v at r/y wire. Also, 0v at the P/B and R/B wires at the ABS ECU harness. 12v when the appropriate brake is pressed. Plugged back in.

Unplugged diodes. 6-7v on the pink/brown and red/brown wires and 12v when the appropriate brake is pressed at the diode.

Grrr.

Can it really be the ECU that is bad!? I tried some electronics cleaner on the ABS ECU harness, but that didn't help. Bike only has 14k on it.

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Unplugged front brake harness. No change, 6v at R/Y wire. Plugged back in.

Unplugged abs ecu - 0v at r/y wire. Also, 0v at the P/B and R/B wires at the ABS ECU harness. 12v when the appropriate brake is pressed. Plugged back in.

Unplugged diodes. 6-7v on the pink/brown and red/brown wires and 12v when the appropriate brake is pressed at the diode.

Grrr.

Can it really be the ECU that is bad!? I tried some electronics cleaner on the ABS ECU harness, but that didn't help. Bike only has 14k on it.
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Those results do indicate a problem with the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Those results do indicate a problem with the ECU.
That's such a damn bummer. Tempting to go non-ABS.

Just for sh*ts I unplugged the HCU and hooked up the new taillights. Everything works fine.

If I were to get another HCU, could I just plug that in (without actually assembling it) just so I can make sure it doesn't feedback? I don't think that would cause an issue.

Thanks again for the help!
 

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If I were to get another HCU, could I just plug that in (without actually assembling it) just so I can make sure it doesn't feedback? I don't think that would cause an issue.

Thanks again for the help!
I can't confirm that. My bike is a 2002 model that doesn't have that hardware.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I can't confirm that. My bike is a 2002 model that doesn't have that hardware.
What do you think about getting jiggy with it and installing diodes on the 2 wires right at the abs ecu harness? That way, voltage can only go into the ecu, but not out. The 12v when closing the brake switches should still flow properly.

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What do you think about getting jiggy with it and installing diodes on the 2 wires right at the abs ecu harness? That way, voltage can only go into the ecu, but not out. The 12v when closing the brake switches should still flow properly.
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I'm assuming you mean the PK/BN and R/BN wires (the P/B and R/B wire color codes you mentioned I'll assume are typos). If so, that might work for the tail lights (if the source of the bad voltage is the ABS ECU) but it won't fix the C1095 and C1216 DTCs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm assuming you mean the PK/BN and R/BN wires (the P/B and R/B wire color codes you mentioned I'll assume are typos). If so, that might work for the tail lights (if the source of the bad voltage is the ABS ECU) but it won't fix the C1095 and C1216 DTCs.
Yep, thanks! I wonder what just removing those pins would do as a work around to get my tails working.

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Discussion Starter #12
Yep, thanks! I wonder what just removing those pins would do as a work around to get my tails working.

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Check this!
Was working with Angelo (dutchcustomled). Ran a few more tests. If I rig up a harness and plug both the led's and the factory taillight in, everything operates normally! I am even able to clear the abs ecu codes!

So, I'm testing a few resistor sizes for a pull-down resistor circuit and will update this post.

I don't quite understand the factory circuit, but damn it, this works.


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Discussion Starter #13
Update: 510 ohm resistor fixed the issue! Draws about .28 watts.

No abs ecu codes and brake light operates like it should!

Thanks god no bad abs unit! Thanks for all of the input. Learned a bit. Can't say I understand why it works, but it does.



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Update: 510 ohm resistor fixed the issue! Draws about .28 watts.

No abs ecu codes and brake light operates like it should!

Thanks god no bad abs unit! Thanks for all of the input. Learned a bit. Can't say I understand why it works, but it does.



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Now you can use your joker/motogadget led's without freaking!


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Hello..I review our turbo charged Swedish companion referencing that they are covered inside the wiring loom itself under the tank some place close to the assistant force connectors.
On the off chance that you press the loom in that district there is a clear protuberance there.
On the off chance that they actually go broken I surmise you would need to cut the wrapping on the wiring weaver to get to them.
 

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Wow 2 1/2 year thread revival
 
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