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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been working on a new rear fender for the bike for several weeks and test fit everything up to go on a test ride and hopefully finally get some seat time over the Easter holiday with the weather so perfect. And that didn't go as planned..... I plugged all the electronics back in the rear (ECM, TSSM, alarm, etc.) and plugged the Maxi fuse in, turned the key switch to ignition and the alarm chirped and armed, gauge lights came on and MPH arm cycled. From there on nothing?? I have tried everything I have read to troubleshoot for the last three days. Alarm will not disarm. Tried to do a manual disarm with the turn signal directions and it never goes into the mode to take the code. No response to manual alarm disarms. Tried all attempts to read DST codes manually on cluster and no response from any try. Gauge just shows mileage, trip, time, etc. Cycles through those fine but never goes into any mode to show codes. No response that I am doing anything. Finally went to try another procedure I read to completely power everything down and as I expected the second I pulled the Maxi fuse now with not being able to disarm the alarm in any known way I could find it of course went off and would not stop. I finally had to unplug the alarm speaker module to keep my sanity and stuffed it in a box in a closet. Tried every procedure multiple times to no avail. Red security key just blinks red now.

All the bike currently does is: Red key light blinks, turn switch to ignition and headlight comes on (high, low beams work), gauge cluster lights up, cycles MPH arm, lights in cluster cycle, fuel gauge registers, horn works, front indicator lights are both on solid. Red key light stays blinking. That's it, nothing else. Key fobs both present, changed both batteries to be safe. Blinkers do nothing, start button does nothing. One thing that really has me puzzled is that my DynoJet Power Vision does not come on when plugged into the port by Maxi fuse so I cant read the computer or anything from that either.

The only thing I really changed was replacing the rear stock blinkers with M Blaze Bullet led turns from GR Customs. They do have load equalizers wired into them. I soldered them up to the factory plug. I tried all this with the new rear leds plugged in and unplugged. No change. It's like the security system is locked on and nothing else responding to anything, no codes can be read and no manual disarming of alarm. Read countless threads and nothing I tried has had any response on the bike. Voltages all good from battery and a new battery. At a loss here.

:banghead:
 

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..... I plugged all the electronics back in the rear (ECM, TSSM, alarm, etc.) and plugged the Maxi fuse in, turned the key switch to ignition and the alarm chirped and armed, gauge lights came on and tach arm cycled. From there on nothing?? I have tried everything I have read to troubleshoot for the last three days. Alarm will not disarm. Tried to do a manual disarm with the turn signal directions and it never goes into the mode to take the code. No response to manual alarm disarms....
... Key fobs both present, changed both batteries to be safe. ...
It's not something easily solved remotely but from what you describe your FOB isn't communicating with the HFSM. (From what I see you have a 2009 VRSCDX and I'm guessing you have the buttonless FOB HFSM system). I'm not sure I understand what a manual disarm is concerning the buttonless fob, but since you changed the FOB batteries the only things I can think of are to double check that the FOB batteries are good and make sure the HFSM receiver antenna is making connection and isn't blocked or damaged.

The receiver antenna is a Y/BK (yellow with black stripe) wire that's in the 3-place antenna connector plugged into the HFSM next to the 12-place main HFSM connector. This antenna connector is shown in this figure as item "7":
 

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PV gets it's power from the data plug. Even with Security issues it will light up, at least mine did. Sounds like there is a lack of power somewhere which is what the PV is pointing to. Did you check fuses. The speedo should not sweep unless the accy side of the switch is used. Seems like something has triggered that function with normal key on position. Two clues here you can run with. Both likely from the same reason and in most cases the cause is the last thing done to the bike. I suspect a common fuse for the issue but stever975 would be more qualified to determine the connection(s).
Ron
 

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PV gets it's power from the data plug. Even with Security issues it will light up, at least mine did. Sounds like there is a lack of power somewhere which is what the PV is pointing to. Did you check fuses. The speedo should not sweep unless the accy side of the switch is used. Seems like something has triggered that function with normal key on position. Two clues here you can run with. Both likely from the same reason and in most cases the cause is the last thing done to the bike. I suspect a common fuse for the issue but stever975 would be more qualified to determine the connection(s).
Ron
If it is going into ACCY mode when the IGN switch is set to IGN, the most likely fuse to check is the IGNITION fuse (also check the BATTERY fuse but it's not the likely one). These two fuses are in the front fuse block under the upper right side cover.
 

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Did you change the angle or orientation of the TSSM? They are designed to operate in on one direction and angle. If it not where is should be it may think the bike is tipped over and will not allow it to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's not something easily solved remotely but from what you describe your FOB isn't communicating with the HFSM. (From what I see you have a 2009 VRSCDX and I'm guessing you have the buttonless FOB HFSM system). I'm not sure I understand what a manual disarm is concerning the buttonless fob, but since you changed the FOB batteries the only things I can think of are to double check that the FOB batteries are good and make sure the HFSM receiver antenna is making connection and isn't blocked or damaged.

The receiver antenna is a Y/BK (yellow with black stripe) wire that's in the 3-place antenna connector plugged into the HFSM next to the 12-place main HFSM connector. This antenna connector is shown in this figure as item "7":
Thanks for the help.

Yes, I have buttonless fob. Double checked both brand new batteries are good and both fobs present.

No damage to HFSM antenna and have unplugged and re-plugged just to make sure connection is good.

Manual disarm is the procedure to manually input your preset "code" with blinker buttons to manually disarm the alarm. Bike will not allow me to enter this mode. With holding the odometer reset button in while turning ignition switch to ignition then releasing does nothing. Never goes into manual disarm mode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did you change the angle or orientation of the TSSM? They are designed to operate in on one direction and angle. If it not where is should be it may think the bike is tipped over and will not allow it to start.
I took the TSSM off the bike while working on it so it has moved around a bit, in case some mercury switch inside trips something while off the bike. TSSM is back on the bike now in the same position and orientation. From what I read if there is a "tip over" issue the odo would read Tip. Just cycles through and shows mileage, clock, trip distance, etc., all the normal stuff. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
PV gets it's power from the data plug. Even with Security issues it will light up, at least mine did. Sounds like there is a lack of power somewhere which is what the PV is pointing to. Did you check fuses. The speedo should not sweep unless the accy side of the switch is used. Seems like something has triggered that function with normal key on position. Two clues here you can run with. Both likely from the same reason and in most cases the cause is the last thing done to the bike. I suspect a common fuse for the issue but stever975 would be more qualified to determine the connection(s).
Ron
If it is going into ACCY mode when the IGN switch is set to IGN, the most likely fuse to check is the IGNITION fuse (also check the BATTERY fuse but it's not the likely one). These two fuses are in the front fuse block under the upper right side cover.
Sorry, I said tach arm cycles(sweeps) in my original post. It's the middle gauge that sweeps, MPH. I edited original post to read correctly. I would swear the MPH always cycled(swept) upon turning ignition switch clockwise to ignition position but I may be losing it....

I am hoping it may be a fuse and not the TSSM taking a crap. More I read late last night said to double check fuses. I will check them as soon as I get home. I know of the fuse block at rear fender but have not seen one under front right cover, except the Maxi fuse of course. I will look for those.
 

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Sorry, I said tach arm cycles(sweeps) in my original post. It's the middle gauge that sweeps, MPH. I edited original post to read correctly. I would swear the MPH always cycled(swept) upon turning ignition switch clockwise to ignition position but I may be losing it....

I am hoping it may be a fuse and not the TSSM taking a crap. More I read late last night said to double check fuses. I will check them as soon as I get home. I know of the fuse block at rear fender but have not seen one under front right cover, except the Maxi fuse of course. I will look for those.
They stuff them in two places to make life more complicated. Hopefully it's a simple as a fuse. If fuse is blown and it blows again, retrace it for the cause. This case, the last thing you worked on electrical related. Good luck. Lack of power to start up the PV unit is still a clue as well as the speedo sweep. It should only do that on accy key position and some possible fault like you have now although not sure what triggers it to do that.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So, progress! That is of course if you call still not being able to ride the bike progress......

Seriously though. I pulled the Maxi fuse and removed the pos and neg off the battery last night. Put a trickle charger on it just to make sure the battery is topped off. This evening tested battery and solid 12.9v. I went ahead and bought all new fuses for the bike on the way home. Replaced them all. Used ohm meter and did find one blown, the ignition 15A fuse in the front left fuse block was bad. Changed the bad ignition fuse, had run switch off and ignition switch off. Fobs on brake lever and plugged Maxi fuse back in. Red key light came on solid then started blinking, flashers blinked. Turned ignition switch to ignition and lights came on and MPH did not sweep(cycle). Red key light went solid for a second then went off. All looks good at this point. Blinkers all work as they should. I can get into the diag mode on the gauge cluster to see if there are any codes. It shows diag then press odo button and shows "PSCb". Cycle to flashing P and it shows "no rSP". Cycle to others and S, C, and b all show "none". Power Vision powers up but when I go to Stored DTCs it displays "Error: Couldn't connect... Is key on?". When I go to Read ECM it displays "No ECU detected". I am guessing this may be because the run switch on the handle bar is still on Off. I flip this switch to Run to see if bike will fire up and the ignition fuse blows right away then I am back to where I was yesterday. Turned run switch to off and replaced ignition fuse and all operates normal up until I switch the run switch to Run. Immediately trips the ignition 15A fuse again and every time I put run switch to run with the ignition switch to Ignition. I did not do anything with the ignition and only the rear fender and blinkers. Those all work fine now including the new Blaze leds until I put the switch to run on the handlebars. Oh, also right after the ignition fuse blows all four blinkers blink twice. Any clues??
 

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...I flip this switch to Run to see if bike will fire up and the ignition fuse blows right away then I am back to where I was yesterday....
...Any clues??
You most likely have a short to ground on a gray wire fed by the IGNITION fuse.

This wire runs from the fuse up to the IM, to the right-hand controls, to the ABS ECU (if you have ABS), to the data link connector and back to the HFSM.

Since you were working on the rear fender, I'd look for a problem with the gray wire near the HFSM module.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You most likely have a short to ground on a gray wire fed by the IGNITION fuse.

This wire runs from the fuse up to the IM, to the right-hand controls, to the ABS ECU (if you have ABS), to the data link connector and back to the HFSM.

Since you were working on the rear fender, I'd look for a problem with the gray wire near the HFSM module.
:notworth: :notworth:

You da man! I bet that is the exact problem. I will look later today. I was working with the gray wire at the rear fender. They feed the lights for the license plate. I didn't need those with the new rear setup so I neatly folded them and heat shrunk them up to protect them in the event I ever needed them later. At the rear lights they were 2 gray wires that each split into 2 wires giving 4 gray wires with 2 going to each light. Every wire was gray but I assumed one side had to be neg. I may have crossed something in trying to protect them. I think I had a beer in my hand.....
 

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:notworth: :notworth:

You da man! I bet that is the exact problem. I will look later today. I was working with the gray wire at the rear fender. They feed the lights for the license plate. I didn't need those with the new rear setup so I neatly folded them and heat shrunk them up to protect them in the event I ever needed them later. At the rear lights they were 2 gray wires that each split into 2 wires giving 4 gray wires with 2 going to each light. Every wire was gray but I assumed one side had to be neg. I may have crossed something in trying to protect them. I think I had a beer in my hand.....
Well, I did mention it's usually the last thing you worked on that get's you. Hope it's the issue. It does sound like a classic short to ground.
Ron
 

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...I bet that is the exact problem. I will look later today. I was working with the gray wire at the rear fender. They feed the lights for the license plate. I didn't need those with the new rear setup so I neatly folded them and heat shrunk them up to protect them in the event I ever needed them later. At the rear lights they were 2 gray wires that each split into 2 wires giving 4 gray wires with 2 going to each light. Every wire was gray but I assumed one side had to be neg. I may have crossed something in trying to protect them. ...
........
There shouldn't be any gray wires feeding lights of any kind. The only place a gray wire goes in the back is to the HFSM. The license plate light is fed by a blue wire (with black for ground).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I guess I can keep drinking beer....

It wasn't as simple as I described in the last post. I unplugged the connector that feeds the rear blinkers and rear plate lights (gray wire) and still blew the fuse right away. After looking more the gray wire for the plate lights were on the light side of the plug only. No gray wires were on the fuse side of the plug. That's the only gray wire I messed with so back to looking. Off to the store for another 25pk of 15A fuses.
 

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A word of caution. When you are working to find the problem, make sure you keep a pair of ***** handly within reach. I recently had an issue with a wire harness shorting and for some reason it was just enough of a draw not to short the 15 amp fuse. When the harness started to catch fire, I went to pull the fuse and it was so hot that the plastic around the fuse came off in my hand and left the metal portion of the fuse in tact. I grabbed my ***** and clipped the fuse cutting the flow to the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
A word of caution. When you are working to find the problem, make sure you keep a pair of ***** handly within reach. I recently had an issue with a wire harness shorting and for some reason it was just enough of a draw not to short the 15 amp fuse. When the harness started to catch fire, I went to pull the fuse and it was so hot that the plastic around the fuse came off in my hand and left the metal portion of the fuse in tact. I grabbed my ***** and clipped the fuse cutting the flow to the circuit.
VERY good tip. People who aren't familiar with or haven't been bit by DC would be in for a surprise. Glad it wasn't worse for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
There shouldn't be any gray wires feeding lights of any kind. The only place a gray wire goes in the back is to the HFSM. The license plate light is fed by a blue wire (with black for ground).
That would make more sense but this is how my bike came. It hasn't been modified.

Here is the lights side of the rear plug. Two black/purple feed blinkers and two grays split to feed license plate lights.








But sure enough the fuse block side of the rear connector does have black/blue on the feed side where it's gray/gray on the light side.




That's messed up because I was modifying all of that stuff and it's the same damn color as what seems to be causing all these issues but no go. Didn't fix anything. I would have sworn that was the problem.
 

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Imho

After 30+ years wrenching bikes, I always find the problems are usually found by going to the source before the problem began. Use the normal procedures for finding shorts or draw downs, if all else fails. When I say source problems, I mean take it back to where it worked before it was upgraded or modified. If that won't solve the problem, remove the fuses or disconnect connectors that isolate circuits using the wiring diagram and isolate the problem there. PM me or email me if you wish. I'm here to help. Kevin
 

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Here is the lights side of the rear plug. Two black/purple feed blinkers and two grays split to feed license plate lights....
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But sure enough the fuse block side of the rear connector does have black/blue on the feed side where it's gray/gray on the light side....
...
That's messed up because I was modifying all of that stuff and it's the same damn color as what seems to be causing all these issues but no go. Didn't fix anything. I would have sworn that was the problem.
Component side wire colors can vary from what's indicated in the literature due to what a part supplier sends to Harley.

You need to trace the gray wire from the IGNITION fuse. It feeds the components I mentioned in Post #11. The short could be a pinch inside the harness but it's more likely near where it connects to a component.
 
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