Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The following are some notes I PMd to another memeber and thought I should share them here.

See my gallery for pics.

I installed about a year ago and have had no problems since other than getting the map right for high altitude (3500').

I am very happy with the kit and service from Trask.

I have a polished/chrome compressor, chrome air delivery tube, black turbo and pipes with chrome exhaust heat shield. Added the air filter trim piece.

I have never dynoed, but a good friend of mine detonated his 124 inch Road King trying to take me! I have tuned using a WEGO IID and the RT. I do not like revving the guts out of a bike on a dyno. The owner of SpeedTwin here in Calgary is a friend of mine and we will run it up on his dyno over the winter. If you want to use the WEGO ask Nick for headers with O2 bungs (I guess not an issue if you have a 2007) as I had to have them welded in myself.

I could not get the bike to run well. It had lots of performance, but was very rich. I tried tuning with a WEGO II but it was so far out I could not resolve. Nick now has a high altitude map which is nearly spot on for Calgary. If at high altitiude make sure you tell Trask.

I have HogPro 260 with Indy wheels and Ricks gas tank. I would guess gas milage is better with the high altitude map than it was before the turbo.


a few installation pointers:

Clean the header pipes where one slips into the other as mine were tight and hard to wiggle into position. Use new exhaust rings.

The support from the oil pump to turbo body needed the holes enlarged.

The oil return tube was a bitch to get on, length is very tight, but longer would not work either. The oil filler when screwed in tight pointed away from the return tube. Sealed it with silicon, but will fit a aluminum washer one day.

Could not get the hose fitting out of the oil filter housing, but did not matter. Be careful not to tap the thread too deep.

The turbo exhaust dump pipe originally hit on the vertical coolant pipe, but levering the turbo out wards with the headers loose resolved.

Airfilter is tight on radiator shroud, but black electricians tape stops any scratching in use.

You need a clutch tool or an air driven impact wrench to get the clutch centre nut off and on. (I used the impact, but still had to heat the nut to loosen as per the Workshop manual). The clutch is very heavy, mine partly due to micro bore tubing I ran through my handle bars. I am getting the AIM plate. Note I broke one of the bolts holding the stock clutch “star” plate in and that caused a 3 day delay.

Epoxy the supplied front breather tube as per the instructions into the front head. I did not and will now have to take the plenum off to do so.

When cutting the coolant pipe use Max's trick of poking a surgical glove or plastic bag up the pipe first as it will pull the cuttings out when removed. I am still not happy with the location of the filler cap, but more form than function. You can suck enough coolant out of the vent screw with a pipet to make the modifications. I guess you could use a straw if you like the taste (it is poison).

The latest kits have a heat shield on the exhaust that extends all the way to the turbo body. Mine finishes about 3" away, but I have had no problems with the pipes or the heat. I do have trouble in that the NightRod pegs are where you would normally put your legs down when stopped (28" inside seam), but even that does not cause issues with the turbo. I see no reason other than looks for the new header heat shield Trask are now offering as an option.

The airbox cover does rest on the rubber air to plenum elbow at the back therefore there is a gap around where it joins the frame, but only about 1/4" not enough to do anything about.

Cover the frame etc. with masking tape to avoid scratches when fitting.

I did buy and fit a boost pressure gauge. I got a Stewart Gauge 0-15 psi for $45 US with complete fitting kit and bracket that I mounted on top of the NightRod headlamp fairing centrally above the speedo. Under normal cruising I see about 2 psi. I did have a problem with the waste gate as the stem was too short and the gate was opening late running boost to around 12psi which is too high for a stock engine. I would not have known this without the gauge. Nick sent me a new waste gate with adjustable stem.

Thats about it for a brain dump. It took me longer than most to fit as I fiddled about and was in no hurry. Must say the VROD is one of the best bikes I have ever owned and I must have had around 40.


SteveO
 

·
REVOLUTION !!!
Joined
·
21,424 Posts
Great looking Bike Steve.. Those Indy wheels are looking good. :notworth:
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top