[BAD V-R]

This is engine is from a 2009 1250 Muscle that was in perfect condition when it was removed for a big bore upgrade at 600 miles. The person I purchased the engine from lost their job shortly after the engine was removed and the motorcycle (less engine) was eventually repossessed. As a part of the seller's eventual bankruptcy case, certain debts were excused including the balance from HD Credit for the rest of the difference.

Before I purchased the engine I viewed the purchase order and the registration for the complete VIN and made sure that matched the partial VIN on the engine case. I then did a search on the VIN and did not find anything outstanding. I also contacted the Dallas PD (where the seller lived) and had them check the complete VIN to make sure it was not stolen.

There is a picture of the VIN on the engine below as well as I will provide the complete VIN to the buyer.

I purchased it with a couple projects in mind, but with my current workload and other projects that should come first (not to mention the money needed to help finish those projects), I have decided to just sell it.

I just wanted to that out of the way since I know I will PM'd numerous times asking about the origin of the engine.

Now about what you get. The engine appears to be in perfect condition. While I have not put in in a frame to run it, I did look down the intakes and turned the engine over by hand. There was plenty of compression and the intake and exhaust tracks looked perfect.

It does not have the clutch actuator cover, but it does have several extras normally not found on engines, such as the injectors, fuel rail (with regulator), intake boots, throttle bodies, mini engine wire harness, output flange and 28-tooth pulley. A new 1250cc engine from HD without the extras I mentioned, retails for $6995. Those extras alone would cost another $700-$1000.

While this engine is from a Muscle, it can be used on just about any bike as long as the exhaust system is routed so that the dipstick can be accessed.

I am asking $3400 for the engine the way it sits and I will include crating if it is going to be shipped. Shipping charges are the responsibility of the buyer. Local pickup is welcomed and I will reduce the price for not having to crate the engine. I will also warranty the engine is in running condition for 30 days after it is shipped. In that case, the cost to ship and return the engine will not be refunded.

Another option is that as many of you know, I build high performance engines as well. If you wish, this engine could be disassembled and built to your specifications before shipment. That would of course add substantial costs to the engine, but it would allow for a 1 day engine swap when you get it home.

Please contact me if you have any questions.

 

[Harleyvrodguy]

Frank, I could need this, I am waiting for my motor to be torn down. I hope you still have this if I decide to buy it in a week or so! Eric

 

[BAD V-R]

Frank, I could need this, I am waiting for my motor to be torn down. I hope you still have this if I decide to buy it in a week or so! Eric

What happened to your engine if I may ask?

BTW, the FAIC on your bike would work well with the dipstick location on this engine.

 

[09VRSCF]

There is a picture of the VIN on the engine below as well as I will provide the complete VIN to the buyer.

Hmmm, looks like that motor was built just 18 bikes before mine if I'm reading the VIN code correctly. Cool coincidence... Wish I had, as we all do, the extra $$$ hangin around for a good deal.

Bump for ya!

 

[bikerabbi]

It's always good to have a spare engine around...
Bump

 

[BAD V-R]

I am also willing to work out some kind of a trade out if someone has a running or damaged, complete engine. The engine could be togther or in pieces. As long as the cases and tranny are in good shape, I would be willing to credit that towards this engine. The amount of credit would vary based on the condition of the engine being traded in.

 

[wiley81db]

pm sent.

 

[BAD V-R]

Still available.

 

[Draconis33]

Total noob question but you never learn without asking....

Can a 1250 engine go in a 1130 frame? If so, how tough is it to make it work?

 

[Tie_One_On]

Total noob question but you never learn without asking....

Can a 1250 engine go in a 1130 frame? If so, how tough is it to make it work?

They are the same exact engine excluding the bore size (inside engine size) and the location of the dipstick on the right side of the case.
So , YES it will swap right into any VROD frame.

 

[myvrodrocks]

They are the same exact engine excluding the bore size (inside engine size) and the location of the dipstick on the right side of the case.
So , YES it will swap right into any VROD frame.

But will the ECM match up and power it correctly?

 

[VanislVrod]

....

 

[BAD V-R]

But will the ECM match up and power it correctly?

The ECM does not have to match anything except the HD tuner (if used) and the TSSM. It does not see anything different from one engine to another. I have done a few engine swaps myself without changing the ECM.

If you have an HD tuner, you will just change the displacment contstant to start with (69CI to 75CI). You would then have to tune it for whatever exhaust and intake you are running.

Seriously, if you were just wanting to swap a Stock 1130, for a Stock 1250 like this, you are wasting your time. If you have a blown up engine, that is of course another issue all together.

If you are considering the engine as a swap and are doing so for more power, you should seriously consider the SE Stage 2 cams (super simple swap when the whole the engine is removed) along with a good 2:1 like the V&H Comp.

 

[g.doster]

i need cases.i want the motor,but if you have a line on some cases, i would really appriciate it.my problem is that harley davidson won't sell me new cases without me sending them my cases in exchange.what i'm trying to do is build two motors at the same time. i can't give them my 1130cc cases in and let them destroy them just to transfer a vin#.if you can't help, i fully understand,so right now i am doing my best to find money for the motor.your price is excellent.

 

[pecee]

Still available.

is the motor sold yet?would you be prepared to send it to new zealand?i wonder what the costs of freight and insurance are?yes im keen to buy if the costs are reasonable.

 

[BAD V-R]

is the motor sold yet?would you be prepared to send it to new zealand?i wonder what the costs of freight and insurance are?yes im keen to buy if the costs are reasonable.

It is still available, but I have no idea of what carrier I could use to get it there at a reasonable price. By air it looks like it would be in the $2200 range!

 

[BAD V-R]

The engine is scheduled to be exchanged for a broken engine this weekend.

Inquires are still welcomed, but it looks like this engine is spoken for.

 

[ZZ-ROD]

BadV-R,
I know this is probably an off-the-wall inquiry, but since you have a pretty good knowledge of these engines: my V-Rod died on me a couple of weeks back, no sputtering, no engine seizure or locking of the rear wheel, no smoking or oil spills at all. Just died on the freeway, I figured it was probably the fuel gauge messing with me again and I had run out of gas. Tried putting a bit of fuel, jump starting it and nothing. Recharged my battery and even opened up and decompressed top end to see if engine turns by hand and it all checks out.

All I get is a quick –pseudo start and then what appears like a clicking noise, try checking the starter as well and it works fine.

Any ideas or maybe diagnosis help you could give me?

Thanks for all and any help in advance.

 

[BAD V-R]

BadV-R,
I know this is probably an off-the-wall inquiry, but since you have a pretty good knowledge of these engines: my V-Rod died on me a couple of weeks back, no sputtering, no engine seizure or locking of the rear wheel, no smoking or oil spills at all. Just died on the freeway, I figured it was probably the fuel gauge messing with me again and I had run out of gas. Tried putting a bit of fuel, jump starting it and nothing. Recharged my battery and even opened up and decompressed top end to see if engine turns by hand and it all checks out.

All I get is a quick –pseudo start and then what appears like a clicking noise, try checking the starter as well and it works fine.

Any ideas or maybe diagnosis help you could give me?

Thanks for all and any help in advance.

If you hold the start button down, does the engine continue to turn over? If not, it could be your TSSM shutting things down. If the engine will run for about 1 second and shut off, that is a pretty sure bet it is a TSSM issue. This can be caused by a tip-over or the TSSM and ECU being unmatched.

Is your check engine light on? If so, have you read out the codes?
http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3This thread shows how to get the codes
http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2This thread details the code meanings


It could also be the Ignition relay being flakey or perhaps the contacts on the ECU, Ignition or Security fuses. You may even check the battery cables.

There are a lot of things it could be and without he bike where I can go through the steps to trouble shoot it properly, it would be hard to pinpoint.

 

[ZZ-ROD]

Man, thanks for the quick response.

That's exactly what the engine does, i hold the starter button to try to start it and the bike does a quick revolution like its going to start and then it just stops, if i hit starter again it just clicks, not like (starter is stuck) click more like an electrical click. So im guessing it is the TSSM.

What steps do you recommend i take to narrow it down? Any cables or specifics I should start at?

Thanks for the help again.