Update: I went to the local dealer and he doesn't have the original part# switch, just the superceded #. Mine is normally open (and does work), his is normally closed. Which one is correct for the bike? Or do I just start modifying my switch button for shorter throw? I think that's what I need, but I'm not sure yet. TIMINATOR1
Clutch switch
I just bought a Destroyer recently and the clutch switch is not working correctly. It keeps the launch box in launch mode all of the time. I pulled it out and it works perfectly but it seems to be too long in the push button shank. I have found a replacement at a local dealer, he says his is the superseded switch. I will see if that is the same one that I have and if it is I will shorten the shank on the one I have. If not, then I'll have to figure out what to do. Anybody have any info on this deal? TIMINATOR1
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The switch action based on clutch lever position, lever released, presses on the nib which opens the switch circuit. When the lever is pulled, the switch goes to resting position and closes the contacts to conduct current or in this application, pass a ground signal.
My recollection is the STOCK DESTROYER clutch switch operation is CLOSED when the lever is pulled to disengage the clutch, a ground circuit is completed to the launch box.
I'm no longer using the OEM (proprietary) launch box, but have retrofitted an aftermarket unit, where I use this grounded connection to turn on the Dyna-DRL400 rev limiter to activate its limiter when the throttle is wide-open.
My recollection is the STOCK DESTROYER clutch switch operation is CLOSED when the lever is pulled to disengage the clutch, a ground circuit is completed to the launch box.
I'm no longer using the OEM (proprietary) launch box, but have retrofitted an aftermarket unit, where I use this grounded connection to turn on the Dyna-DRL400 rev limiter to activate its limiter when the throttle is wide-open.
Mine has the stock launch box. I'll check the switch to determine what is happening. With the switch wire (butt connector) disconnected, the rpm goes to the high position. Since there are two butt connectors, connecting the switch, I know something has been replaced. I will investigate further. THANKS A BUNCH TAXMAN!!! I can't wait to get a good pass! TIMINATOR1
I shortened the nub on the end of the switch and the problem is solved! It was easy to find on my dyno. First pull it only went to 7184 RPM (121 HP) disconnected the switch and it went right up over 9000k easily (172 HP). Thanks for the help! TIMINATOR
Only did a few launches in the driveway (its 250 ft long) what a difference!
Wild Horse Pass Dragway here in Phoenix, AZ is on summer hiatus, it was 112 degrees when I ran it in June! Its been up to 117 since! They start running again in September, it should be under 105 or so...., I can't wait! TIMINATOR
Wild Horse Pass Dragway here in Phoenix, AZ is on summer hiatus, it was 112 degrees when I ran it in June! Its been up to 117 since! They start running again in September, it should be under 105 or so...., I can't wait! TIMINATOR
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