Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
:cool: :cool: The clutch on the ROD is letting out way at the end. :hmm: Is their a way to adjust the clutch? Looked in my manual and all they have is a way to bleed it, would this help?THANX :ride: :ride:
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
12,582 Posts
Sounds Like it's Time for a Barnett Upgrade! :spank:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
:confused: C'mon KAZ you think the clutch is smoked bike only has 1800 miles on it.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
12,582 Posts
rodder said:
:confused: C'mon KAZ you think the clutch is smoked bike only has 1800 miles on it.
Have you been hard on her?Slipping the clutch to take off.It has happened before! :ithappen:
 

·
Do It Movin...
Joined
·
1,180 Posts
Clutch Question???
Let’s say I'm pushing the bike, if I fully engage the clutch, should I get any engine resistance? If the clutch is properly adjusted shouldn't the bike roll as if in neutral?

Maybe I'm trippin' but it seems I get a lot of resistance from the V-Rod as compared to say by Blackbird...

Hope I'm not drifting too far...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
Clutch adjustment anyone? Mine's doing the same thing now. Had a lot of stop and go from the heritage festival rally in charleston.
 

·
spit happens
Joined
·
5,532 Posts
Are you guys running synthetic oil?I did alot of stopping and going this weekend and I had no clutch problems.
 

·
Diesel Smoke Tester
Joined
·
862 Posts
Like I said before....

:banghead: I posted a long story on how I totally fixed my clutch slipping problem about 2 months ago. It worked fine after I added (3) .040" washers under the clutch slave cylinder assembley on the right side of the tranny. A few weeks
later, I made the change more "professional" by removing the throw out bearing center pin, and machining .040" off the end of the pin on my lathe, and getting rid of the (3) washers I had used before. The clutch grabs right where it is supposed to, and never slips...even at full throttle shifts. The factory set the clearance up to tight; and when the engine get warm/hot, there is virtually no clearance between the slave cylinder and the throw-out bearing. If you don't have a lathe, then the washer/spacer idea will work fine for you. You don't really need a new clutch, 90% of the time.
:cheers: redrazor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
555 Posts
I would vouch for Redrazors fix. I had the same problem with the clutch engaging the tranny at almost full release. 1st I tried bleeding the system, only to blow the clutch master cylinder seals w/ a mighty vac. After rebuilding the MC, I did what Redrazor suggests w/ the washers. Worked like a dream, and very easy to do.



redrazor said:
:banghead: I posted a long story on how I totally fixed my clutch slipping problem about 2 months ago. It worked fine after I added (3) .040" washers under the clutch slave cylinder assembley on the right side of the tranny. A few weeks
later, I made the change more "professional" by removing the throw out bearing center pin, and machining .040" off the end of the pin on my lathe, and getting rid of the (3) washers I had used before. The clutch grabs right where it is supposed to, and never slips...even at full throttle shifts. The factory set the clearance up to tight; and when the engine get warm/hot, there is virtually no clearance between the slave cylinder and the throw-out bearing. If you don't have a lathe, then the washer/spacer idea will work fine for you. You don't really need a new clutch, 90% of the time.
:cheers: redrazor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
:plause: Got an apointment at the dealer next week for the fuel flange recall and some other things. I'm hoping they can take care of it. I would like to see some photos of that clutch mod RED RAZOR is talking about.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top