The general recommendation is to use Screamin’ Eagle® Performance Fork Oil (99881-87) or Screamin’ Eagle Racing Fork Oil (99909-93R). This will reduce the front end dive under hard breaking.RVROD said:I have red somewhere in another post about changing the weight of the fork oil for better performance? What are the members recomendations and why?
Thanks in advance
Do a search on "fork oil capacity",a thread I started, as well as a few other threads posted too.DST said:How long does this job usually take to complete? And would anyone advise against someone who cant visibly tell the difference between fractional and metric tools?
vette family said:You have to remove the legs from the bike, so first you remove the front wheel, brake calipers, and fender. Then before you losen the triple tree loosen the top caps on the leg, big crecent wrench work for this if you don't have the right size socket.
Loosen the triple tree allen screws and remove the legs and unscrew the top cap, be careful it is under pressure from the spring. Remove the spacer, washer and spring and dump the oil out into a suitable container, pump the leg a couple of times to get the most of the oil out.
Re-fill the leg with the spring, spacer and washer out to within 3.3 inches of the top of the leg. Repeat for the other side and re-install the fender and wheel.
However, I would suggest you get a copy of the service manual for any torque specifications.
Bro, it's easier than you think. Once you drop the calipers and front wheel and four fender bolts, all that's left is to loosen the front pinch bolts on the trees and slide the legs out. Just break the fork cap loose first, it's o-ring so it isn't tight. From there pull the cap. Spacer, spring and washer will fall out once you turn it upside down to remove the old oil. Pump it a few times to get it out of the valving, leave it upside down for a while, turn it back over and fill up to 3.3 inches from the top of the leg with it fully compressed (no spacer, spring or washer until you fill it) extend it fully, put the parts back in just the way they came out, screw the cap down, insert back into trees, tighten cap, install the rest of your front end, and you are now a certified Vrod tech like the rest of us.CaptClose said:Do you really have to remove the forks? I know the service manual says to but isn't there a cheat? There must be an easier way right?
With Thanksgiving right around the corner, you may want to get the baster cleaned up for the wife.:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:BKiller said:Could you leave it on the bike and use a turkey baster to suck the old oil out? I've used that trick a few times on dirt bikes...
Makes it really easy to put back in the exact amount you take out. Even if you don't get it all out, it isn't that big of a deal.