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Discussion Starter #1
Since having my 08 DX , i knew there was a great following on here for Amsoil , and have read thread after thread about this oil , this in the end made me "want" it but over here in the UK , no one has really heard of it !

i hit the internet and there is only one importer and stockist and needs to be ordered over the net with a £7.65($12-14) shipping fee !

even so, i'd been "sold" the concept and wanted it !

£15 a bottle 5 needed so thats £82.65 or around $132 ! ! ! for 20-50 MCV HD spec.

ended up getting 6 bottles as wanted a top up bottle but got 10% discount.


well i'm sure its great oil and will be great for my bike , but after around 400 miles running it have noticed no difference to fans coming on or first to second gear "clonk" it was running SYN3 before ,

i'm not saying i expected an amazing difference , but to be honest i cant feel any ?

for the US i'm sure it worth and cost effective to stick with Amsoil , but is it really worth spending this massive amount extra for me in the UK

when i can get Mobil 1 or Motul 300v Ester based fully syn's for around £50 ($75-80)

don't get me wrong i'm glad its in there , but whether i would want to shell out this cost again is another matter.
 

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I was thinking about running AMS myself. I use to use it in my ATV for racing and it greatly reduced clutch slippage. I just thought it would be better then the Harley Davidson oil thats over priced. Only reason I still use it is cause my inspections are still under warranty and thats what they use. But I'll keep your post in mind when I start doing my own oil changes cause I've never seen AMS in Germany either.
 

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Posting From The Pub
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I haven't.

Any fully synthetic 10-50 or 15-50 bike oil will be dandy, except possibly Syn3 which seems to be either a bit crap or else formulated for air cooled bikes. 10-50 implies a better oil.

I strongly suspect any 5-40 0r 10-40 fully synthetic bike oil will be fine too, because the damn bike is a modern watercooled bike engine and was probably designed with that in mind, but I'd rather not risk it. I've had to though, because that's all I can get... Sitting in the garage waiting to be put in.

Try these guys:

http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/807/7758

I reckon this is what I had last time, re-badged. Lasted well, came out looking fine, bike ran well, change felt smother than Syn3 and it used much less.

Can't get it in Portugal any more :banghead:
 

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Get yourself over to the OPIE Oils site in the Uk, if you manage to get a discount by joining one of the numerous sites they sponsor you get a damn good price, I paid about £11 inc VAT per quart.

Regards
 

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Blowin' Smoke
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I use Amsoil, and like it, but if I were in your shoes, I'd probably run the Mobil 1. They are very close, and I couldn't talk myself into that kind of overpaying to get Amsoil. I get Amsoil here for $10 per quart.

That said, I do believe Amsoil holds up a bit better, and allows you to extend your oil change interval if you choose. I change mine every 5,000 miles.
 

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Posting From The Pub
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Well I think the additives are likely to kiss off the clutch. But I'd love you to try it and report back! :D
 

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Posting From The Pub
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Aha! OK, that's handy. How long will it take you to to do another 4K?
 

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durata membro
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You need to watch the ingredients in the oil you run.Any synthetic will not work good.
The main thing to look for is how many ppm of zinc the oil has.The Revo needs a minimum of 1400 ppm for the clutch and a couple other hard wear areas,like the cam to bucket area.Molybdenum,most just say moly,is not recommended for an engine and clutch like the Revo's setup,although you will find as high a mixture as 200 ppm even in Honda sold oil.Under heavy use,like how I ride my V-Rods,the clutch would slip and not live long at all with 200ppm of moly.I believe the M1 15-50 is rated @ 90 ppm.The silver cap 15-50 has 1300 ppm of zinc.

If there was no,or hardly any difference between the oils,then you must have had an oil w a high ppm rating of zinc to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i was running SYN3 before !

like a say its prob better and better for the engine in the long run , but right now , i cant tell any difference , i was hoping for a smoother gear change as so many have reported back after filling up with Amsoil , but it seems to be the same !

Fans come on just a quick as before ?

Opie oils is £14.50 perhaps get 10% out of them ? but to be fair they are having to be this price after importing and paying taxes etc...

after reading some on oils , Ester based is the real deal which is Motul , and now Silkolene as for additives ??????

but i don't want to strat the oil debate as been there before and still put Amsoil in just wish we could get it cheaper !
 

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Posting From The Pub
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7,850 Posts
You need to watch the ingredients in the oil you run.Any synthetic will not work good.
The main thing to look for is how many ppm of zinc the oil has.The Revo needs a minimum of 1400 ppm for the clutch and a couple other hard wear areas,like the cam to bucket area.Molybdenum,most just say moly,is not recommended for an engine and clutch like the Revo's setup,although you will find as high a mixture as 200 ppm even in Honda sold oil.Under heavy use,like how I ride my V-Rods,the clutch would slip and not live long at all with 200ppm of moly.I believe the M1 15-50 is rated @ 90 ppm.The silver cap 15-50 has 1300 ppm of zinc.

If there was no,or hardly any difference between the oils,then you must have had an oil w a high ppm rating of zinc to start with.
Ah, interesting. I doubt what I am about to chuck in (all I could get) lists the PPM for zinc.

I think I shall run what I have found for a month or two and then get my pet Silkolene sent over from the UK.
 

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durata membro
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Soon,oils will not be allowed for sale with zinc in it.The byproducts from the crankcase gases causes catalytic converter damage.
Then there will be some clutch composition changes similar to what I've seen in the automatic transmission business.Old time engine technology will not last long without zinc.
 

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i was running SYN3 before !

like a say its prob better and better for the engine in the long run , but right now , i cant tell any difference , i was hoping for a smoother gear change as so many have reported back after filling up with Amsoil , but it seems to be the same !

Fans come on just a quick as before ?

Opie oils is £14.50 perhaps get 10% out of them ? but to be fair they are having to be this price after importing and paying taxes etc...

after reading some on oils , Ester based is the real deal which is Motul , and now Silkolene as for additives ??????

but i don't want to strat the oil debate as been there before and still put Amsoil in just wish we could get it cheaper !
If you can get Motul at a decent price in the UK I'd stick with it.

I use 7100 20w-50.
Motul even states compliance with H-D specs for this oil

No clutch slipping, No Valve Train noise. Less oil consumption than before.

The more silent and smoother shifting is only noticeable the first few 100 Miles after an oil change. After that it's peace of mind.

Just my :2cents:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
funny as after reading some and asking questions i have narrowed it down to the Motul 7100 20-50 , its keeping the same weight as recommended and is the correct syn base (Ester) and has the right additives for bikes and the clutch.

car oil i have always been lead to belive no matter how good has a car based additive package which is not good for bike clutch's ?

o well Amsoil is in now so dont have to worry about "oil" until the next time a change is needed.

prob give the Motul a go next time.
 

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funny as after reading some and asking questions i have narrowed it down to the Motul 7100 20-50 , its keeping the same weight as recommended and is the correct syn base (Ester) and has the right additives for bikes and the clutch.

car oil i have always been lead to belive no matter how good has a car based additive package which is not good for bike clutch's ?
o well Amsoil is in now so dont have to worry about "oil" until the next time a change is needed.

prob give the Motul a go next time.
Precisely right. (ElrodontheV-rod mentioned "moly" additives).
Car oils often have friction modifiers that can cause a motorcycle's (wet) clutch to slip.
 

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www.badpenny.org
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Precisely right. (ElrodontheV-rod mentioned "moly" additives).
Car oils often have friction modifiers that can cause a motorcycle's (wet) clutch to slip.
Has anyone actually experienced clutch slip as a result of using a car oil of the correct viscosity?
It's one of those things thats trotted out on every oil thread you read on any forum , but somehow it hasn't happened to me in 29 years of riding and being a cheapskate.

Steve
 

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Posting From The Pub
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Depends when summer starts - I rode home yesterday in torrential rain with the heated grips on max :banghead:
Whereas I am so hot I am having to break every English instinct and ride in a waistcoat, no jacket.

I'll let you know the ward number when the inevitable happens.
 
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