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I changed the oil in my VRod today. I went with the valvoline 20W-50 MC Dino.
And a harley filter. This oil seems to work great for me. I dont ride it like I stole it. I was going to change to amsoil but after I checked the condition of the oil I decided to stay with what I had used. No problems, No metal on the drain plug. No complaints. My rod runs so cool I just couldnt justify the synthetic cost. For me it seemed like bying a elephant gun to kill a squirl. :moped:
 

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1130cc is enuff 4 me
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I changed the oil in my VRod today. I went with the valvoline 20W-50 MC Dino.
And a harley filter. This oil seems to work great for me. I dont ride it like I stole it. I was going to change to amsoil but after I checked the condition of the oil I decided to stay with what I had used. No problems, No metal on the drain plug. No complaints. My rod runs so cool I just couldnt justify the synthetic cost. For me it seemed like bying a elephant gun to kill a squirl. :moped:
In terms of oil temperatures your bike operates @... How cool is "cool"?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
According to my "digital" oil dip stick temp gauge. My fan kicks on at 153 F I have never observed a temp above 190 F.

How about you?
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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oil temperature≠engine temperature
I can not see anywhere on Valvoline's website that states this oil is "wet clutch" certified/OK
 

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# 12/50 Ignite LE
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The Valvoline website specifically states that their 20w-50 motorcycle oil meets or exceeds JASO MA2. The JASO MA2 rating is correct for wet clutches.
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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The Valvoline website specifically states that their 20w-50 motorcycle oil meets or exceeds JASO MA2. The JASO MA2 rating is correct for wet clutches.
found it: "under high RPM and high temperature conditions.
Protect Wet Clutch - Optimal frictional characteristics for maximum power transfer, smooth shifting and proper protection of the
wet clutch."

AND
"Meets or exceeds API SF/SG/SJ
Meets
JASO MA specifications"

still do NOT see JASO MA2 stamp for this dino oil.
 

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I changed the oil in my VRod today. I went with the valvoline 20W-50 MC Dino.
And a harley filter. This oil seems to work great for me. I dont ride it like I stole it. I was going to change to amsoil but after I checked the condition of the oil I decided to stay with what I had used. No problems, No metal on the drain plug. No complaints. My rod runs so cool I just couldnt justify the synthetic cost. For me it seemed like bying a elephant gun to kill a squirl. :moped:
They all run cool. Temps are the least of why I run synthetic in THIS bike. More concerned with wear and viscosity integrity and longevity. Smoother shifting, less friction, less changes, more fun.

As far as Valvoline, not even in my lawnmower.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
 

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Hey Vambo what's the problem with Valvoline?
This quote is from the article in your post.


" I ran Valvoline in my Harleys for 120,000 miles."
 

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Hey Vambo what's the problem with Valvoline?
This quote is from the article in your post.


" I ran Valvoline in my Harleys for 120,000 miles."
Who said there was a problem with Valvoline? :angeldev:

He didn't tell you that he rebuilt it every 25,000 though!!!
 

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Flat Broke
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Discussion Starter #12
They all run cool. Temps are the least of why I run synthetic in THIS bike. More concerned with wear and viscosity integrity and longevity. Smoother shifting, less friction, less changes, more fun.

As far as Valvoline, not even in my lawnmower.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
I dont think my bike could shift smoother, or be more fun. I am simply not a fan of paying a premium for something I dont need. Its just me. Many feel a need to use "the best" of almost everything. I like to use what is rational for my situation. If I used my bike to drag race and run hard at redline all the time. I think that I could see a real need to buy the "best" oil I could find. I'm not a racer just a rider. Theres a guy on my street that bought a zero turn kubota mower for $15000 to cut a 1/5 acre lot. Im ok with it. I think he's nuts, but were friends..:) Were all in it together...
 

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I dont think my bike could shift smoother, or be more fun. I am simply not a fan of paying a premium for something I dont need. Its just me. Many feel a need to use "the best" of almost everything. I like to use what is rational for my situation. If I used my bike to drag race and run hard at redline all the time. I think that I could see a real need to buy the "best" oil I could find. I'm not a racer just a rider. Theres a guy on my street that bought a zero turn kubota mower for $15000 to cut a 1/5 acre lot. Im ok with it. I think he's nuts, but were friends..:) Were all in it together...
It will absolutely shift smoother.
As far as value or premium, syn can go twice to 3 times as long as fossil. You don't need the "best". Synthetic goes as high as $18 a quart or Mobil for less than half of that. Hell, fossil oil is $3-4 bucks for the cheap crap now.
To each their own but with all the advantages synthetic offers, I think you're nuts not to use at least a blend.
 

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For most day to day applications, any good synthetic that is designed to run in a motorcycle will do... The key to any oil is to change it at regular intervals along with a good filter... Other than that, which ones the best? The one that doesn't harm your motor...
 

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1130cc is enuff 4 me
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According to my "digital" oil dip stick temp gauge. My fan kicks on at 153 F I have never observed a temp above 190 F.

How about you?
153*??? That's it??? I use the thermometer type oil dipstick. It gets between 175*-190* in the spring/summer. During October/November it goes to about 150*.

P.S. Your fans kick on when your coolant is around 200* & shut off @ around 190*
 
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