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bad to the bone
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What size sprocket should I run on front and back for turbo set up and yes I will run highway and around town. Thanks in advance.
 

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"Vrod King"
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923 Posts
Currently I'm running 22 up front and 57 on the rear. It's close to a stock ratio. If I was going to do a lot of highway, I would run 21 or 22 on the front and maybe as low as 50 on the back for better mpg.
 

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2,512 Posts
Hey Mike_w does the new rear sprocket still use a cush drive ? Is there an aftermarket cush drive adapter available for the sprocket to bolt to so the stock rear wheel can be used or are you using a direct bolt to the stock hub or aftermarket wheel method ? Thanks !
 

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"Vrod King"
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923 Posts
I'm using the Trask hub adapter that bolts direct to the wheel on my '09 & '07. I'm also running dished sprockets from PBI (model 2072) to give me a little more room between the chain and the rear tire and the tank. Trask says you can run a flat sprocket which you can but, some makes of 240 rear tire are just a little wider than others and may rub with some. And you really don't want it to rub the tank. I've also made my own axle adjusters/stops to keep the axle from twisting on the cams under heavy load and loosing up the chain. My '05 also has a chain drive but it has Buell wheels and the sprocket bolts direct to the wheel with only a spacer in between. My '02 has the Buells too, but has a belt with a rear sprocket that has been machined to bolt direct to the wheel without the cush drive.

I know someone makes a conversion kit that uses a cushion in it. I don't remember who or why. Too me the cush drive lessens getting the power to the ground and with it in place why go with a chain then?
 

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Yea, I'd love to ditch that 9 Lb. cush drive and 5 Lb fwd. belt pulley. Don't know the weight difference going chain but must be half that ? The cush drive is just that - it cushions the peak power inputs to the wheel and lessens peak loads on the wheel and the transmission, so for a street bike I don't think it's all bad - I would think the chain and a good cush drive may be a decent setup to save some weight, get full power without the stock belt worries ( especially the skinny 240 belts at high power levels ) and have reliability. Time for me to do some research for a cushion kit for use with a stock R wheel -
 

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"Vrod King"
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923 Posts
Yea, I'd love to ditch that 9 Lb. cush drive and 5 Lb fwd. belt pulley. Don't know the weight difference going chain but must be half that ? The cush drive is just that - it cushions the peak power inputs to the wheel and lessens peak loads on the wheel and the transmission, so for a street bike I don't think it's all bad - I would think the chain and a good cush drive may be a decent setup to save some weight, get full power without the stock belt worries ( especially the skinny 240 belts at high power levels ) and have reliability. Time for me to do some research for a cushion kit for use with a stock R wheel -
You know that the Trask hub adapter will bolt up to your 180 wheel too. It's just as wide as the comp bowl and the stock pulley. You could use a flat late model HD sprocket off the shelf (2.214" center, 5 bolt with .4375 bolt holes). You could even run a wider rear tire. You'll have room. Just check the clearance next to the tank in case it may have a budge in it. Front sprockets can be picked up from Vreelands HD. Since you'll have it all apart, I would also change the wheel bearing to ceramic bearings too. You'll notice a big difference with ceramic bearings.
 

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Wow, that sounds good Mike ! yea I was looking at the Trask setup - very nice, like $ 669 without an O ring Chain - looks like the stock cush drive compensator bowl may be able to be used with a sprocket ? Vreelands kit shows no hub adapter, but comes with steel front, aluminum rear sprocket and chain ( and now he has a polyurethane cushion available ) so you think is his kit using the stock hub adapter ? Ceramic bearings - how much and from where ? Thanks, good stuff.
 

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"Vrod King"
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923 Posts
I'm not sure on the kit from Vreelands about how they mount the sprocket to the wheel. I've used them to get front sprockets. They should have sizes from 18 tooth to 22 tooth.

Worldwide Bearings ([email protected]) has ceramic bearing. ABS ceramic bearing too.
For your Street Rod, you should need the following:
2 each CB-63205-2RSx1" ( 1" x 52 mm x 21 mm ) for your wheel
1 each CB-6205-2RSx1" ( 1" x 52 mm x 15 mm ) for the Trask adapter
 

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Mike_w - Thanks ! I'm sure the advantages are less rolling friction with the ceramic bearings maybe less free play but are they as durable as steel ? After breaking lots of ceramic items I would think they would be kinda brittle - what's your real world experience, can you feel it or dyno it and it shows the improvement ? Do they seem to last ? Problematic to install without damaging ? Thanks for the info, I truly appreciate your time -
 

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"Vrod King"
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Dave at Worldwide Bearings would be better able to answer some of your questions about them. My real world "test" they are worth it. I felt a difference right off the jack with the rolling friction. I don't have side by side dyno number with and without but you could find something on the internet. I run them in all 4 of mine and the guy I ride with has them too. No failures in any of the bikes, and we ride all year round. Use the right tools to install them and they are fine. Beat on anything with a hammer and you'll mess it up too. Thinking back, I've started running ceramic bearings in 2008 when I first started to change over.
 

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Sounds good mike_w nice to get some durability reports back from the field. Hey they aren't cheap but what really is anyway for these bikes ? - I understand the equivalent of maybe a one to two Hp improvement from bearing drag reduction. At $ 500 for both wheels that's about $ 250 a Hp so on the high end for what we normally pay for Revo Hp improvements, but if a guy needs to replace wheel bearings anyway the up charge is not so bad. They got less expensive Hybrid ( Metal case, ceramic bearing balls ) and full All Ceramic ( big bucks ) which ones are you and your bud running ? Thanks -
 

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VRSC est -03
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3,094 Posts
Some years back i did ceramic wheel bearings on my dx. During this swap I did a poor mans test:
Jacked up bike, no brake caliper, no belt, stock bearings. Gave tire a push -wheel spun 40 seconds before end.
Swapped to ceramic, gave tire a push - wheel spun:
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1 minute and 50 seconds before end!! True!
Other gains? Weeel.....cough cough..
 

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"Vrod King"
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I run the Hybrids. They are about $80 each from what I remember. ABS ones are more ($115 +/-). I took out all the ABS stuff out of my '09. I'm not sure if you're going to see (or feel) much of a difference between the hybrids and the all ceramic ones but you will compared to the stock (all metal) ones.
 

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Yea, makes sense mike_w and KnutJ - there are a couple cool video's on You Tube attesting to the spinability improvements and that's cool but what would be real interesting would be a dyno test with 180 Lbs of rider weight with steel and ceramic bearings in back to back full power runs they may do even better in higher loads.
So since we are on the subject, obviously high power wide tire bikes absolutely need the chain for a couple reasons. Narrow tire bikes not so much ( at least at the 140 RWHp level ) since they have the wider stock belt - so for these bikes is there a rear wheel Hp decrease if using the chain ? In other words the belt is a very efficient ( I've heard over 90% power delivery system and an O or X ring chain probably has higher parasitic losses passing power but approx. how much ?
 

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"Vrod King"
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923 Posts
My '05 has a chain too. But I couldn't tell you if it hurts the horsepower or not. I can still do a burnout all the way up the street with it. My '02 with the belt and no cushion drive in it still feels "softer" on the launch than my '05.
 
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