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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's a close up of what one of my pipes look like after a few rides with the center baffle cut out.

For a limited time, I am offering this service for $60.00 + shipping. You've seen this service available for more than double the cost.

If you would like this done to your pipes, send me a PM.

I already have a cosmetic upgrade planned that further smooths the edges of the cuts. I don't do anything to the outside weld bead from the factory, as you can see on mine, there is a glob at about 7:00 o'clock.

Also notice the lighter gray ring just inside the pipe. That is putty epoxy used to prevent the inner sleeve from sliding backwards. The factory design is that the inner sleeve is connected to the inner baffle for support and to hold it in place. With the center baffle cut away, the support has to be the outer baffle, and the putty epoxy does a great job of making the anchor point.

Lastly, I will provide FULL WRITTEN instruction for how to re-mount your modifed pipes with the least amount of hassle.

You will be recieving back a quality product from me.

Mine (left) - Theirs (right) appears to have been painted after the cut was done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
mvette said:
Putty epoxy is not required if you mod your pipes right..
Please explain, because I don't see how it's possible to mod the pipes without doing as I explained. I'll post pics of the center baffle to prove it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Karl Scott said:
Can someone post a v-mod pic to this thread so we can compare. This hole looks bigger.
See my original post. I added the other pic.
 

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G'Day mate
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Hi DCLittlejohn,

I've self modded my stock pipes and i dont recall that sleeve even being loose, much less able to move. The inner baffle wasn't connected to that sleeve at all - and i don't see how it would have been holding it in place either. I did mine following Chad's (Runit1971) instructions on this thread -

http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5175

Is that the same method you use?

I used a grinding stone to get the edge of the exit hole cut as smooth as possible. It took a fair bit of patience and swearing!

All I can say is for $60.00 you are offering pretty good value for money. Exceptional, actually. I would say mine took me about 4 hours all up, including removal and reinstallation on the bike. I guess once you know what you are doing this time would fall substantially.

Anyway, good luck with your new venture.

Smasha
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've posted in the Wanted section. I'm looking for a stock pipe to cut open.

I think some people here are missing an important fact about how the internal construction of the stock pipes is done, and what holds what together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
VrodG said:
DCLittlejohn ....I've done 2 sets of self mods with no problems, :plause: and finishing my 3rd as soon as I chase up a couple of things. What do you want to know????????? :rolleyes:
I already know what I want to know, but I think I have to show what I am talking about via photos.

I cut a damaged pipe apart before I did my 1st mod, but I didn't take photos of the parts.

If what I saw is not what everyone else is saying, I had a defective pipe.

Anyway, I'm not going to say who's right and who's wrong until I can get another pipe to prove it one way or the other.

If someone else has photographic evidence to proove what I am saying wrong, please provide it, I will be happy to admit I am wrong if that is the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't currently have a full pipe to cut apart, but take a look at this center baffle that was removed from the last pipe I cut.

Does this look the basically the same as any other self-mod cut that you other guys have done?
 

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G'Day mate
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Yep, looks the same as what came out of mine. Don't get me wrong, I wasn't saying you were doing things wrong or anything like that, heck i've only done one set, so i'm no expert.

I just dont remember that perforated sleeve being loose or able to move.

I thought it was part of the outter baffle, isn't it? And the inner baffle wasn't fixed to it, that I could tell.

The reason I actually posted was I that I was interested in how you are going to finish the shape of the exit hole...that was the part i found to be time consuming, trying to get a nice even oval shape. Maybe some sort of template?

Like I said earlier, at $60 you are certainly offering great value.

Smasha.
 

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DCLittlejohn said:
I don't currently have a full pipe to cut apart, but take a look at this center baffle that was removed from the last pipe I cut.

Does this look the basically the same as any other self-mod cut that you other guys have done?

DCLJ,
Mine looked exactly like that!
 

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[My sleeve would move I noticed it while I was working on it,
But it took quite a bit of pressure to move, It wasnt going to rattle in my pipe
thats for sure. I guess if it did work loose a guy could putty it or center punch it to dimple it.
 

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That baffle is out of a stock muffler, the outer baffle will move with some force. The SE muffler and baffle is TOTAL different don't gut them like the stock ones.. you will be sorry! I will give you one thing , I never noticed the v-mods outer baffle where pushed back in the muffler.....Thanks I'm going to look into that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
OK. Now that we know I cut mine properly, and without spending too much more time on this, see the attached drawing. It is a cross-sectional view of a stock V-Rod muffler.

The outer baffle (or Exhaust wadding) is held in place by the outer sleeve and some section dividers. All of that is pushed up into the back of the outer shell and welded in with the end-plate.

The inner baffle (what is removed) is assembled first. The Inner sleeve (which is only about 3/4 the length of the entire pipe) is welded to a reducing collar (labeled "collar welded to inner sleeve" on the drawing). The reducing collar is then welded to the front of the center baffle pipe (labeled "exhaust coupling collar" in the drawing) -- That entire assembly is pushed up inside the outer sleeve and welded to the base plate.

Following that, you can see that the only true anchor point for the inner sleeve is the forward point of the center baffle (which is only anchored by the weld around the outlet pipe on the end plate)

Now, I show the "modification cut point" at the front of the center baffle. Once the center baffle is removed, the inner sleeve and what is left of the exhaust coupling collar can in fact be pushed back inside the pipe... all the way to the back if you wanted.

So, The reason I say that the epoxy putty is required, is to prevent the coupling collar from pushing back when you put the pipes back on the bike. If the that coupling collar pushes back, you get an exhaust leak at the join between the collector and the pipe.

Anyone disagree with that?
 

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