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F2NV
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Things you will need:
-ccs100 kit ( purchased from murphskits.com )
-brake relay ( purchased from murphskits.com )
-vacuum canister
-1.5” pvc pipe, end caps, brass barbs
-3 feet additional tubing
-vacuum check valve (purchased from autozone)

Things that will help:
-zip ties
-electrical tape
-wire taps

There have been a lot of inquiries on the forum about putting cruise control on the Vrod. With a lot of help from JDKEEGAN, I wanted to do a write up to help others feel more confident about this mod. This was done on a 09 VROD Muscle with a Power Commander 5 (more on this later).

First the usual……DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!! This write up is a reference and may or may not be the best for your exact configuration. Also, if someone wants to add any additional information, please feel free.

To start, you will need to be topless (hooray for boobies!!) and strip the bike of the headlight, airbox, side covers and seat. Remove the air filter, v-stacks, and bottom. You will see a throttle connector with a c-clip on the end, remove this c-clip and slide the throttle connector off the post. Slide the “large, ring –cable connector” from the CCS onto this throttle connector. Replace the throttle connector and the c-clip. There is a stock bolt you can use on the top of the motor. Mount the servo cable mount as seen in the pictures. Connect the servo cable to the metal throttle O-ring thingie. Tighten the servo cable nuts to the servo cable mount. Hang the servo over the side. While you are in there, look on the left side of the motor. You will see a rubber nipple, remove the nipple and connect the tubing to the vacuum port. Run this tubing out this area to where it may go later. This would also be a good time to replace/ add an O-ring to the breather tube. Replace the bottom of the air box, stacks, and air filter.

I started from the back with the wiring. If you have LED lights, you need a relay. Connect the black and yellow from the relay to the RED w/ yellow stripe wire that connects to the brake light. Take the red and white wire from the relay and connect this to a grounding point. The blue wire connects to the purple wire that comes off the servo wiring.

You have to options of adding the tach wire to the ECM. Because I have a Power Commander, I tapped in pin 3. It is a black wire (do not get this confused with the many other black wires in the loom). If you do not have a Power Commander, you can tap into pin3 but will have to configure your own connector. If you open up the connector, you will see a blue insert where a wire would go. Sorry, but for this route, your own you own. This this connection will go to the blue wire on the servo unit.

Go to the front left of the bike, find the gray duetsch connector. Within this connector, find the wire that is orange w/ white stripe. This is where you can tap into for your 12v ignition. As you can see in the picture, I also have done the hi/lo mod. You will connect: the red wire from the servo unit, the red fused wire from the controller, and the gray wire from the controller to this location.

For the vacuum canister, I made mine out of 1.5” pvc pipe, end caps, and brass barbs. I would have bought the vacuum canister but since I have the arnott compressor under the airbox, I had to go the pvc route. Take the tubing you connected earlier and connect the vacuum check valve, the connect the tubing to one side of the pvc canister. I found sliding the canister in from the right was easiest. Run the tubing from other fitting on the canister to the servo.

Take the controller and mount it where you would like. Run the black to the ground, the gray to the 12v accy, and the red, brown, green and yellow to the servo wiring. Find a location for the servo. Run the corresponding wires to the control unit. Run the blue wire to the ecm, run the purple to the brake light wire.

I used a zip tie that is designed for air conditioning duct work to mount the servo down. Make sure to remove the jumper inside the servo as well as set the dip switches. Zip tie all the wires and put it all back together.

Wiring:

Control Unit:
black - ground
gray - attach to 12v accy
red - attach to 12v accy
brown - brown servo wire
green - green servo wire
yellow - yellow servo wire

Servo:
black - ground
red - 12v accy
brown - brown wire from Controller
green - green wire from controller
yellow - yellow wire from controller
purple - blue wire on brake relay
blue - pin 3 on ecm (using a power commander, if not, connection will have to be fabricated)
gray wire connected to black wire - not used - remove

Relay:
blue - purple servo wire
white - connect to red wire on brake relay then ground
red - connect to white wire on brake relay then ground
black - connect to yellow wire on brake relay then connect to brake light wire (red w/ yellow stripe)
yellow - connect to black wire on brake relay then connect to brake light wire (red w/ yellow stripe)

Credits

JDKEEGAN

http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155909
 

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F2NV
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
additional pics
 

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F2NV
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks.

I'm bummed about how the pictures are showing up. It may help to download and rotate them.

sent from my phone. expect incorrect grammer and sloppy sentences.
 

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Departed the Fix.
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You have to options of adding the tach wire to the ECM. Because I have a Power Commander, I tapped in pin 3. It is a black wire (do not get this confused with the many other black wires in the loom). If you do not have a Power Commander, you can tap into pin3 but will have to configure your own connector. If you open up the connector, you will see a blue insert where a wire would go. Sorry, but for this route, your own you own. This this connection will go to the blue wire on the servo unit.
One point of note: I believe on the newer bikes (whenever they switched the size of the O2 ports-- 2011 or 2012?) this blue insert in the ECU harness isn't there anymore. I believe H-D used it to supply power to the heating elements on the new O2 ports.

I'm not 100% sure of this, but I think the fidelity is pretty good-- I was researching this since I needed a place to tap a tach wire for my Raptor shift light, but got sidetracked and haven't moved forward on that project-- I'll get to it eventually, but not anytime in the near future.

If someone knows for sure, maybe they can chime in?

And if someone's installed a Raptor shift light on a 2012, could you please PM me?

Anyhow, GREAT writeup from thetryal!

R.
 

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One point of note: I believe on the newer bikes (whenever they switched the size of the O2 ports-- 2011 or 2012?) this blue insert in the ECU harness isn't there anymore. I believe H-D used it to supply power to the heating elements on the new O2 ports.

I'm not 100% sure of this, but I think the fidelity is pretty good-- I was researching this since I needed a place to tap a tach wire for my Raptor shift light, but got sidetracked and haven't moved forward on that project-- I'll get to it eventually, but not anytime in the near future.

If someone knows for sure, maybe they can chime in?...
Close.

The year for the change to 12 mm heated O2 sensors was 2012. This is when ECM pin #3 switched from a TACH signal to a ground for the heated O2 sensors.

Another way to get a TACH signal is to tap one of the coil signal wires (the Y/BE wire from the rear coil to ECM pin #11 or the BE/O wire from the front coil to ECM pin #29). These are switched grounds for the coils and are inverted square waves (≈12 VDC switching to 0 when the coil is triggered). This is an inverted signal compared to the previous ECM pin #3 TACH signal but others have said it works OK for an engine RPM signal.
 

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F2NV
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1,786 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
great add FBJ and Stever.

after doing this, i dont know why more people havent added cruise control. 100 mile ride yesterday with 50 on the highway was sooo much easier. it also kept me from blasting through cars at 100. set and forget it.

the best mod i have done is either this or arnott air ride.
 

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Due to this weekend’s weather going VERY south for riding, I decided it would be a good time to install the CCS-100. Without actually installing anything (I like to test fit & prepare first) I get to the ECM connector, open it up and, and sure enough I have that “Blue plug” instead of where the tach signal wire would be.

Reading somewhere on this forum I remember hearing some noise about getting a “ECM Connector Pin” from the dealership. I order one. It took a bit of describing to the phone order-taker, but $2.99 and about a week I should have it. I think they come in a package of 10.
Here’s the question. . .

To install it, do I just push it into the connector and whalla all is good?

Will this solve the “getting the tach signal from the ECM” for a 2008 VRSCD?

Thanks in advance,
HJ5150
 

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F2NV
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1,786 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hj5150, I believe you push it into the ecu harness and then put back push back in the harness. You should be able to pull a tach signal off this.

Do you have a multi meter?

This is one of top mods I've ever installed!!!
 

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F2NV
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1,786 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hj5150,

Stever 975 knows more about these things than most of us will forget.

If you have any questions on the install, email me at [email protected]. good luck, its not too hard, just tedious
 

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thetryal

Maybe you can help.
I also installed the MurphsKit CCS-100 cruise, following your diections and photos to the Tee. Worked like a champ for over 8000 miles until the Power commander V failed (lost fire to rear cyclinder, got it back after much trouble shooting by removing the PCV and plugging back directly into ECM in stock configuration).
DynaJet Fixed me up with a new PCV (at a much reduced cost) and a Auto tuner module that reqired O2 sensors, I jumped thru all the hoops as it required, getting bungs welded into my personally custom made stainless steel exhaust and installing the O2 sensors and then making the electrical connection into the pin three wire of the new PCV cable that plugs into the stock ECM. Bitchin, all done, lets go ride, shit ! the cruise isn't working.
Power is going to control unit on handle bar, on / off seems to be working, I can feel the relay clicking when I apply front or back brake.
Checked all the vacuum lines for leaks or crimps, Actuator cable is hooked up to throttle linkage ok. The only thing I changed was the connection to the Pin 3 black wire. I just took that back apart and checked where I made the connection (I had carefully stripped the pin three wire and wrapped the connecting wire around it and the soldered cleanly, then wrapping in elec tape cleanly. I'm at a loss and cant sleep at night.
It might be that the addition of the Autotune module changed something ?. I just saw something on your install thread about getting signal from a coil wire and might look into that. If you are still 1130cc.com active or if anyone else has any input, it would be much appreciated.
Dtanner.
 
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