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2009 VRSCAW
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I REALLY like the looks of this sidemount! Does anyone know if it would be easily adaptable to a VRSCAW? If the black bracket shown is removeable it looks like it would be easy enough to make another one using thick aluminum stock and mounting it in the same holes many people use to relocate their rear signals.
If this one isn't an option would the factory sidemount from a Muscle bolt right up?
Any help on the would be greatly appreciated :notworth:
 

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2009 VRSCAW
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
This is true however I don't really wanna do any permanent alterations to my bike (drilling holes, etc.). Now if the bracket is removeable I could likely fab up a dandy replacement to fit the various holes already present on my inner fender.
 

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Vendor
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5,940 Posts
Our motto is "Anything is possible!" I am sure a bracket using the bottom shock bolt would work I would need this side mount to see. We make a sidemount also that goes either vertical or horizontal.
 

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2009 VRSCAW
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Our motto is "Anything is possible!" I am sure a bracket using the bottom shock bolt would work I would need this side mount to see. We make a sidemount also that goes either vertical or horizontal.
Thanks for the reply!
I particularly like the one I posted since it mounts in a similar position as the stock mount on the Muscle. I've never been particularly fond of the shock or axle mounted Vrod offerings that I have seen thus far.
I did find one place that offered a folding side mount that utilizes the lower shock bolt but the mounting block is a bit on the hideous side and looks like it was carved in someones garage.
I guess unless someone chimes in on this mount or I can see one at the local dealer to determine if the bracket is removeable I will stick with what I have.
Thanks again for the input.
 

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2009 VRSCAW
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I believe it is part #60947-10.
If you by chance have a look at one in person please let me know if the black bracket is removeable.
 

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Premium Member
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2,293 Posts
Muscle sidemount (which I believe is the same as the XL one) fit my '10 DX just fine. Bolt holes already in seat-pan/dogs-ass mount. Mine just bolted right in.

Just the sight of the "pop-rivet" in the photo spells "drill the frame" to me.

Seat pan for VRSCAW/VRSCDX is p/n 48523-07 - which means if your AW is 07 or newer, it's the same seat pan as my '10 DX. Which means the Muscle License Plate Mount will be a direct bolt-on. Part Number 69390-09 - is the complete assy, lights, mount, etc. You DO need to order the bolts separately - 4873M for the bolts X 2 - OR - just get a couple of M10 X 1.5 X 15 Button Head bolts from your local hardware store.

Cut the grey wires to the existing lights. Figure out which one is hot (why HD made BOTH of them grey is beyond me) - Pin 1 on the harness connector that goes to the LP lights (blue wire on the main harness side) is +12V - that would be PIN 1 on the license plate/turn signal sub-harness. I used quick disconnects on mine, since the LP lights no longer come off when the dogsass is removed.








Yeah, I know, it's upside-down.




Hales HD - Jim ext:228 - tell him Rick sent you.

Rick

having service, electrical and PARTS MANUAL for your bike is an INDISPENSABLE RESOURCE and should be the VERY FIRST THING YOUR ORDER. I ordered mine when I went to take delivery of the bike.
 

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Muscle sidemount (which I believe is the same as the XL one) fit my '10 DX just fine. BOlt holes already in seat-pan/dogs-ass mount. Mine just bolted right in.

Hales HD - Jim ext:228 - tell him Rick sent you.

Rick
What part number did you buy? Did it come with the factory license plate light and plug in to our harness?
 

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What part number did you buy? Did it come with the factory license plate light and plug in to our harness?
Refresh - I added all the info. Part number I provided is for the complete assembly.

Rick
 

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~*~VDRNLN JUNKIE~*~
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Damn sweet the way you did you tail light SickRick, (what tail light is that) whole bike looks a 100% better IMHO!
Wondering what would be involved in mounting the Tag bracket cleanly on a 02A?
 

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Damn sweet the way you did you tail light SickRick, (what tail light is that) whole bike looks a 100% better IMHO!
Wondering what would be involved in mounting the Tag bracket cleanly on a 02A?
Don't want to be a thread hi-jacker here - you need to pull the fender on your bike and see if you have two 10mm holes forward of the cross-strut on your seat pan (put another photo up top that might better illiustrate location).

Taillight assembly was handmade for me by a friend. Details of that mod are here: http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147084

Rick
 

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2009 VRSCAW
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Rick,
Man thank you so much for taking the time to post such an informative explanation!
Just a few questions when you get time.
First - I do have two holes in front of the crossbar but they are quite large. I can't imagine a bolt being that big in diameter to support the bracket. Does the parts you listed include a spacer or something for the holes?
Second - Since you mentioned cutting wires does this mean that the pigtail ends are different on the muscle license plate mount? No way to just unplug the stock and plug the new one in?

Thanks again for taking the time to post!!
 

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1,373 Posts
Rick,
Man thank you so much for taking the time to post such an informative explanation!
Just a few questions when you get time.
First - I do have two holes in front of the crossbar but they are quite large. I can't imagine a bolt being that big in diameter to support the bracket. Does the parts you listed include a spacer or something for the holes?
Second - Since you mentioned cutting wires does this mean that the pigtail ends are different on the muscle license plate mount? No way to just unplug the stock and plug the new one in?

Thanks again for taking the time to post!!
Just a note, if you need one off parts machined Tim Doherty is the man and he also has some excellant parts for your V-rod...

http://www.dohertymachine.com/ (when good isn't good enough and you need the best)
 

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Rick,
Man thank you so much for taking the time to post such an informative explanation!
Just a few questions when you get time.
First - I do have two holes in front of the crossbar but they are quite large. I can't imagine a bolt being that big in diameter to support the bracket. Does the parts you listed include a spacer or something for the holes?
Second - Since you mentioned cutting wires does this mean that the pigtail ends are different on the muscle license plate mount? No way to just unplug the stock and plug the new one in?

Thanks again for taking the time to post!!
1 - 10MM bolts are HUGE (a cigarette by comparison is 7.5MM in diameter), so if you have 2 holes, about 3/4 on an inch from each other in the illustrated location, then these are the ones. WHY TheMoCo felt they needed 2 bolts this large, is beyond me (then again, WHY TheMoCo chooses to do alot of the asinine things they choose to do, is beyond ANYONES COMPREHENSION).

No spacer - direct bolt-through. No washer either - though I could only find 16mm length bolts (at a local hardware store, not ordered from HD) and used a 1mm washer to space it, as the bolts do nearly bottom out in the mount.

2 - Pigtail ends are obviously different on the Muscle, since the lights are integrated differently. Main Harness has separate connectors for license plate lights/turns (94A), and the stop/run light assembly (93A) - so the CF has 2 connectors on the turn/stop/run assembly which plug into the 2 connectors on the main harness and the license plate light plugs the into the 45A connector on the CF's turn/stop/run assembly.


DRATS! Upside-down AGAIN!

So no, there is no way to just plug-n-play- this. Wires WILL have to be cut - or if you choose to leave the OEM license plate lights installed you're going to have to split those two wires (and we're going to assume here, that you're going to cut the frikkin license plate mount off the dogsass ANYWAY - it'll look kinda DUMB with it.)



I trimmed mine out, in the above photo - as I installed the side LP mount before the completion of the fender/taillight project (patience is a virtue I fall incredibly short on :bash: ).

So you ARE going to need to do surgery on the wires. Do so on the sub-harness that comes off the electrical cradle and runs down to the taillights. One of the photo's above shows how I did it, with quick disconnects (do the + one from the sub-harness as the FEMALE, so you don't blow a fuse in case of accidental contact with ground). Again, these are done as quick disconnects, because the rest of the sub-harness is hardwired to the turn signals and has to come off if you need to remove the dogsass. I believe the sidemount LP assembly DID come with the connector for the Muscle harness - this will (obviously) have to be lopped off.

If you're a REAL STICKLER for cleanliness and detail (for an item that doesn't show), you can order the connector and pins from the Muscle light assembly sub-harness. The 2 pin connector and terminals that license plate mount lights plug INTO the CF's turn/stop/run assembly are going to be 73102-96BK (connector) and 73190-95 (pins - 2 needed) - this is going to be the 45A connector illustrated in the CF wiring diagram.

Cowardice being the better part of valor, I opted to lop the connector off the lp mount, cut the original license plate light wires, and crimp/solder the quick disconnects.

Hope this helps...

Regards,

Rick
 

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2009 VRSCAW
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Rick,
Once again I GREATLY APPRECIATE you taking the time to respond and walk me through this.
Looks like I'll be ordering the mount next week. Gotta figure out how to trim the factory mount so it looks presentable. I heard removing it can cause fender cracks at the bolt holes as well as tail lights popping off and rolling down the highway.
Thanks again and a big :plause: to you my good man.
 

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Premium Member
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2,293 Posts
Rick,
Once again I GREATLY APPRECIATE you taking the time to respond and walk me through this.
Looks like I'll be ordering the mount next week. Gotta figure out how to trim the factory mount so it looks presentable. I heard removing it can cause fender cracks at the bolt holes as well as tail lights popping off and rolling down the highway.
Thanks again and a big :plause: to you my good man.
I went to town with a dremel on mine. The fender hooks into the lip on the top of the dogsass, so as long as you leave the upper edge intact, your turn signals aren't going bouncing down the highway...





As you can see, I took a fair amount of meat off of the dogsass. It's a clean looking presentation with stock taillight/turns, and they don't shake or go bouncing down the highway.

As far as "fender cracks at the bolt holes", I can see how the dogsass provides some support to the rear of the fender - but unless you're toting fat chicks around (wearing a fullface helmet so as not to be recognized by your friends), a majority of the loading forces are going to be in the seat pan and cross strut. I installed rubber washers between the fender washers and fender on mine (to protect the paint from gouging - then again, I put polished allen heads there too - for something no one is ever going to see - then again, I polished the frikkin seat pin also - no I'M NOT OBSESSIVE!).


Rick
 
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