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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I know this sounds crazy. :) But the only thing I did was change the oil and my bike got WAY FASTER? I only had about 6,100 miles on the old oil I know I should have done it at 5,000. But I was about 1,000 miles from home in South Dakota.

I even needed to re-adjust my fuel tuner. After the oil change I started getting decel pop again. I haven't had that in over 6,000 miles and I thought OK that is strange. Then I thought let me put a hundred miles or so on the oil change and see if it goes away. Nope, bumped up the fuel and the decel pop is once again gone.

But the bike is faster, revs up & down much faster.

I was using Drag Specialist DS3 Full Synthetic 20w-50w and K&N filter. Then I was talking to another person into SPEED LOL he said try this Castrol Oil in the VROD. I have used that in my cars, street race cars for years always had good luck. So I thought why not try it?

This is the stuff "Castrol Power1 V-Twin 4T 20W-50 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil" he said I would notice less engine noise. I don't think the VROD's have a lot of engine noise anyway. But man I can't believe what a difference it made in power. It's seems like it's added go juice!

Has anyone had this happen a heard of such a thing?

Thanks!
 

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Nope
 

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Nope here too.
But some have realized smoother gear change when entering Amsoil.
Included me.
 
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It is a scientific fact that if you roll up a big ole fatty and smoke half of it while you change your oil. Your bike will gain 15 HP. 20HP if you add in a few shots of Jack Daniels. Smoke the whole thing and you will have a Rocket ship.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nope here too.
But some have realized smoother gear change when entering Amsoil.
Included me.
I have two friends using that in a M8 and TwinCam they said exactly that.
These are the things I think it may be:
1. It is running quieter, smoother, less RPM noise making it seem like rising & dropping faster.
2. It is shifting quieter, much smoother making it seem quicker.
3. The engine is dying and it's that speed bump you get just before the BOOOM.
I've seen this in lots of my cars, when the engine gets just loose enough a big bump in power then BOOM. I only have 16,987 miles on it and I put just over 7,000 miles on it in last 6 months since I bought it.
I don't think I drive it that hard I cruse on the freeway most of the time. When I'm not lane splitting (Calif. traffic SUCKS) I stay 75 to 100 MPH most of the time.

Something has changed I just can't get a handle on what. Being faster I'm good with that or seeming faster, something about to go boom. :(
Then I will send that motor here CUSTOM-MOTOR BUILDING | Fitzgerald MS And push it to 1350 or 1430. :)

Only way to gain with oil is a lighter grade. Not advisable in the v rod.
Ron
Nope I did 20w-50w. LOL Ran out and looked at the bottles I did order it online they all say 20w-50.

It is a scientific fact that if you roll up a big ole fatty and smoke half of it while you change your oil. Your bike will gain 15 HP. 20HP if you add in a few shots of Jack Daniels. Smoke the whole thing and you will have a Rocket ship.
LOL Nope last drink was 41 years ago on 21st birthday and I haven't had one since. And I won't even touch aspirin, never even tried that stuff, would never.

Thanks for all the replies letting me know I've lost my mind! LOL Too much work today but gone riding again tomorrow another 100 miles or so and I will see if it seems normal again.
 

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On the journey you were on 1K miles from home, you wouldn't have happened to have filled up with higher octane at the pump would you? The tuner you're using, are you adjusting both fuel and timing or just fuel? Naturally if you've been using 87 the whole time and now bumped to 93, you would notice a slight improvement through tuning.
 

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I have two friends using that in a M8 and TwinCam they said exactly that.
These are the things I think it may be:
1. It is running quieter, smoother, less RPM noise making it seem like rising & dropping faster.
2. It is shifting quieter, much smoother making it seem quicker.
3. The engine is dying and it's that speed bump you get just before the BOOOM.
I've seen this in lots of my cars, when the engine gets just loose enough a big bump in power then BOOM. I only have 16,987 miles on it and I put just over 7,000 miles on it in last 6 months since I bought it.
I don't think I drive it that hard I cruse on the freeway most of the time. When I'm not lane splitting (Calif. traffic SUCKS) I stay 75 to 100 MPH most of the time.

Something has changed I just can't get a handle on what. Being faster I'm good with that or seeming faster, something about to go boom. :(
Then I will send that motor here CUSTOM-MOTOR BUILDING | Fitzgerald MS And push it to 1350 or 1430. :)


Nope I did 20w-50w. LOL Ran out and looked at the bottles I did order it online they all say 20w-50.


LOL Nope last drink was 41 years ago on 21st birthday and I haven't had one since. And I won't even touch aspirin, never even tried that stuff, would never.

Thanks for all the replies letting me know I've lost my mind! LOL Too much work today but gone riding again tomorrow another 100 miles or so and I will see if it seems normal again.
I'd say put that oil thought out of your mind. Beware of internet claims is the best suggestion I can give, unless they agree with me. :ROFLMAO:
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On the journey you were on 1K miles from home, you wouldn't have happened to have filled up with higher octane at the pump would you? The tuner you're using, are you adjusting both fuel and timing or just fuel? Naturally if you've been using 87 the whole time and now bumped to 93, you would notice a slight improvement through tuning.
During the trip it did run much better with better mileage, $1.30 to $2.00 per gallon CHEAPER gas! Most of all the gas was 91-93 no ethanol. Now I'm back home in California back to 91 with ethanol less mileage and back to just under $5.00 per gallon. :( And it is just a fuel tuner "Cobra Fi2000R" non-california version it was fine the whole trip. I just had to re-adjust the tuner after the oil change. o_O
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I think it was "#3" the zoom before the boom. :(
Went to ride it today (finished my work early), started it and it would barely run, poor idle, engine light came on...
Shut it off waited a couple re-started, now it wouldn't even idle. Start drop to 500 or 600 rpm's stall, restart, same thing, restarted about four more times and now it will idle very rough around 1,000 rpm's. But revving the gas just a little you can hear it's just not right. So shut it off, pulled the cover, reset the fuel tuner all to zero's, started it, shut it off. Reset the tuner to the numbers I was using, restarted still very rough idle, revving not sounding right, engine light came back on.

Pulled the air box cover, cleaned the K&N air cleaner, reset tuner again. Now I'm waiting for the air cleaner to dry and try again. Cobra says if the tuner dies it reverts back to stock settings can anyone confirm that? It seems like that is the problem. I did run into some rain on my trip but I had the tuner covered in plastic because I had already read if it gets wet it's DEAD.

Without the tuner I had poor performance and TONS of decel pop. I have only changed the plugs, Air Cleaner to K&N, and slip-on
"Drag Specialties Python Mamba Mufflers for 91 to 2010 FXD Dyna PN 1801-0362 (slip on)". I cut the mufflers at 2 3/8 in width and welded/made a new bracket for holding them. I like the sound much more then anything I heard made for VROD's.
 

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First step is retrieve the code
 

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EFI can be good and bad. The good is they will throw codes which really helps to zero in on a problem. As mentioned, that's the first step, as in look what the code is. Otherwise , you just run around like a fart in a wind storm wasting time trying to find the problem. Been there, done that myself but on a bike that was throwing a random U1016 code. Bike otherwise started and ran fine. Route cause was never found but it went away on it's own and has not returned. Good part is I got a crash course in electrical diagnostics.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
First step is retrieve the code
I'm guessing something to get the code? Oh yeah something that I don't have yet. lol (searching for a code reader)

I believe it's the Fi2000R tuner. It says "if all three lights are on after the bike is running - check the wiring connections" Since it has been running about 6 months with only one light (green light) after it starts. The connections were correct, so I took them all apart, cleaned them, re-connected them and all three light are still on. :(

Called Cobra (kinda rude people) they said this has never happened in 15 years! Send them the receipt and they will take it back and look at it and decide what to do. So it sounds like when someone never replaces the part on warranty. I will send it back and wait to see what they say. But I will be shopping for a different one just in case I'm right and they will not honor their warranty.

It did work well while it lasted I guess if it's a one year warranty it would have lasted that long without me putting so many miles on the bike in a short time.
 

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You retrive the codes thought the speedometer. Search the forum for retriving codes. You are guessing and condemning somthing without knowing what the code is, when it could be somthing else causing your issue.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Found the code "P0113" looking for what that means.

To get the code for anyone else that needs it. Run switch on ON, push and hold the button on the bottom of the speedo, turn the ignition switch to on. Then you see "Diag" click that once then you will see something like this "P5Cb" click and hold the button for about 5 seconds and you should see the error code. Mine was "P0113"

"P0113 IAT Voltage Open/High" I guess that's because I started it with the airbox off and sensor unplugged?
 

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Is the light on solid or comes on then goes off after 5 or so seconds? If the light goes off after 5 sec then just clear the code through the speedometer and recheck.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
On solid and there are two error codes P0113 & P0261 I had to click a second time for the next code.

From the forum:
"P0261 Current Front injector open/low 4.24 DTC" (not sure what "DTC" is looking it up)
That looks like what the fuel tuner is saying. All three lights on at the same time is dumping fuel across all ranges idle, rev, above 7,000 RPM's.

I'm going to remove the tuner since it plugs into the fuel injectors. Then clear the codes and go from there.
 

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On solid and there are two error codes P0113 & P0261 I had to click a second time for the next code.

From the forum:
"P0261 Current Front injector open/low 4.24 DTC" (not sure what "DTC" is looking it up)
That looks like what the fuel tuner is saying. All three lights on at the same time is dumping fuel across all ranges idle, rev, above 7,000 RPM's.

I'm going to remove the tuner since it plugs into the fuel injectors. Then clear the codes and go from there.
Good idea on the injector code. Remove the tuner, out of the loop. PO113 is a classic unplugged IAT sensor. This will produce a steady engine light.
Ron
 
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