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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, I see they lose some hp, but are better for low end torque. Thanks to the tip on the Rinehart brand, I also see that it is possible to baffle these. Since they are independent, each cylinder should be remapped to suit the baffles?
 

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I’d like to join this thread by asking the same question. I bought this 2002 A about 3 months ago, and I’ve been wondering who made these pipes. 2 into 2, turnout cut, not really any baffles. No marking at all on them. I’m getting used to the noise - they really squawk at 6000+ rpm. The last picture is looking inside of one. Any ideas who made them?
 

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Back to the Future -

Junk old tech 2-2 pipes with no 2-1 scavenging at all. On an R Model no less - rear cylinder pipe is an ankle burner. Probably much lighter and far less bulky than the stock 2-1-2 but a low tech solution on a high tech engine - the exact opposite of putting a nice Stainless Steel 2-1 on an old tech V Twin and greatly improving its power. Yes, that's how I really feel. :D
 

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H2O, thanks I think they are indeed Samson Street Sweepers after searching pictures online. The previous owner must have tuned it as it runs smooth, has good power when I need it, and gets me between 30 and 39 mpg. I wish I could try out some baffles without taking them apart (see what they’d sound like while being kind to the neighbors), but I’ll guess I’ll live as-is!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I bought the bike. Looked like shit with 10 years worth of garage dust on it. Aluminum was pitted. 6 hours of compound and autosol and you can see the results below. I’ll admit the pipes aren’t ideal, they are ankle burners, but I’ll ride it like this for a while and see how it goes.





 

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WOW ! LOOKS GREAT DMS 1970 ! Someone saving an R Model, I Love it ! It's not that those pipes look that bad, they don't - it's just that they aren't the right pipe for an R Model with mid pegs. Look for a V&H Comp pipe with a quiet baffle or a old style V&H pipe with the Oval muffler (seen recently selling for like $99 - $ 300 ) I've got a Bub 7 2-1 but it is a lot of work to make it fit an R, and requires an early pipe frame bracket which must be drilled to fit the R frame. Ride it don't hide it ! Save the R's ! Congrats !
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I had to jump start the bike, now the tach and odometer and speedo don’t work and no wow. Main fuse and all the fuses under the seat look fine.

Did some google searching and found mention of som relays/fuses around the battery area? I’m charging the battery to see if it’s just a low battery condition.

Crap
 

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Well, I had to jump start the bike, now the tach and odometer and speedo don’t work and no wow. Main fuse and all the fuses under the seat look fine.

Did some google searching and found mention of som relays/fuses around the battery area? I’m charging the battery to see if it’s just a low battery condition.

Crap
You really should get (and read) an owner's manual. You can find one here if you enter your VIN.

The info on fuses is in the "Maintenance and Lubrication" section under "Electrical Protection: VRSC Models".

The most likely bad fuse based on your description is the ACCY fuse (you can't go by how the fuse looks). It's in the left side fuse block next to the START relay. It could also be the BATTERY fuse (right side fuse block in lower right corner).
 
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