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Discussion Starter #1
can anyone recommend a good source for information on how to bleed and swap your break and clutch fluids? Mi '08 VRSDX is looking like it could use some fresh DOT4 in it - thnx!
 

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Agave Idiots :)
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337 Posts
I just did it all myself, get yourself a set of Speed Bleeders. They are replacement brake caliper fittings with one way valves. Work slick as shite! Makes bleeding the brakes and clutch lines real easy and is a one person job. Double check your clutch fitting as it is a different size than the brakes.

http://www.speedbleeder.zoovy.com/category//
 

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I have always bled brakes the old fashion way in fact I have a rear brake switch to fix right now.Anyway since you have to take the cover off fill and reseal it why cant you take a 100ml syringe and a hose with the cover removed and suck the fluid threw the system that way.In fact why cant you revers bleed it or can you.What would the possible issues be.Could you wreck a seal somewhere?
 

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Shelby Stanga Rocks
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I have always bled brakes the old fashion way in fact I have a rear brake switch to fix right now.Anyway since you have to take the cover off fill and reseal it why cant you take a 100ml syringe and a hose with the cover removed and suck the fluid threw the system that way.In fact why cant you revers bleed it or can you.What would the possible issues be.Could you wreck a seal somewhere?
Reverse bleeding COULD dose not mean will roll a seal backward. I saw this happen with a master cylinder for a clutch in a car. Dude was having problems bleeding the master and decided to push fluid backward into it. It rolled the seal backward and had to replace the unit. I have also seen people do it on the scooters from china with no issues.

Vacuum bleeding works fine as dose old school method. I have done mine both ways and have to say old school seems to give a better feel when done.

Denatured alcohol works best to clean old brake fluid and the goo it may have built up. It wont hurt thee rubber parts.

I think I read on here that some will flush the system by taking it apart and cleaning it then refilling it.

Anyway you do it remember this is DOT 4 and will harm painted parts.

I assume y'all know do not use DOT 5 and DOT 3 though will work is not as quality. This leads me to dont use the chain store brand stuff. Stick with a bike or hot rod shop brand. Like Bel Ray or you can get some good stuff from Ken (Amsoil). I have to say that my racing experience has Ford Heavy Duty as a very good brake fluid and a nice price point for what your getting.

NASCAR Cup teams will use the Ford HD for brake testing back in the day before they controlled everything. It was almost as good as the $48.00 a pint stuff they ran on race day.
 

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Killer Service Inc.
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8,929 Posts
I have done many. The best is to do it the old fashion way.

Take baster and clean out reserviors really good. Do NOT touch the levers.
Fill them and bleed.
Go slow.

Fluid will go flying out of the reservior if you do not go slow.

Follow clutch linne done and remove cover on right side.

Careful with speed bbleeders they do not seat all the way.

Good Luck
 

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just thought id add my two penneth. Ive just made up a vacuum bleeder system from a glass jar and vac cleaner with variable suction settings. so far it seems to work ok and saved me a$100 on a gen vac bleeder . Not my idea though, good old you tube..
 

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I have done many. The best is to do it the old fashion way.

Take baster and clean out reserviors really good. Do NOT touch the levers.
Fill them and bleed.
Go slow.

Fluid will go flying out of the reservior if you do not go slow.

Follow clutch linne done and remove cover on right side.

Careful with speed bbleeders they do not seat all the way.

Good Luck
I just finished this process and I cannot emphasize enough to GO SLOW!! it is much easier than I expected to launch brake fluid all over your bike and garage if you squeeze too quickly.
 
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