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V's and Z's
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Will I need to drill it and use an extractor?

Any other shadetree trick?

Thanks
 

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1130cc.comaholic
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Pan American Son of VROD :-)
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Which bolt... the caliper mounting bolt (12pt banjo) or the 12pt 1/4" bolt that holds the pads...

If it's the 1/4 (assuming non-Brembo) be sure you're using the correct socket. There's a star socket (reverse torx) that can be mistaken for the 12 point hex. The star socket will act like it's stripped.

If it's a the mounting bolt, go easy on yourself.... Get some JB Weld and a socket you don't like anymore and glue it on. Come back tomorrow and back it out. :)
 

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Registered USDA
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If it is the mounting bolt you should be able to get it with a pair of vice grips. Whatever way you go leverage will be the key.
 

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V's and Z's
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I used a 12-pt 10mm socket and when it popped off, I thought the loctite had broken, but the bolt was still tight. Then I used vice grips until it was rounded off very nicely.

It's the lower mounting bolt on the slider.

I wanted to install an inspection sticker plate I made today...no joy. I am 1250 miles from 10,000. I think I'll just wait until I hit 10,000 and let the Stealer do the 10K service and take care of my problem, and inspect it.
 

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Pan American Son of VROD :-)
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Take care of it before you get to the dealer. You don't want to pay $80/hr for them to fiddle with a bolt. Besides, they don't need to remove it during the 10K service. They'll just drop the wheel to inspect anything they need.
 

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V's and Z's
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's what I'm afraid of...dropping the wheel as an excuse to charge me more.

How do I get a new bolt shipped to me? Do dealers do that?
 

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Pan American Son of VROD :-)
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MegaZ said:
That's what I'm afraid of...dropping the wheel as an excuse to charge me more.

How do I get a new bolt shipped to me? Do dealers do that?
You can get the bolt from the dealer or probably head to NAPA or some other auto hardware store and get it. Ride the bike in and you should be able to eyeball the length or pull the bolt from the opposite caliper and take it in to match size.
 

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V's and Z's
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thankymuch
 

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V's and Z's
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

 

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Pan American Son of VROD :-)
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You could also drill a hole through the head of the bolt sideways and put a nail or cotter pin in there. Then it wouldn't be round anymore and you can get traction.

Because that bolt has a collar, you can also grab the collar with a pair of vice grips. It has a larger diameter and will give you better gripping/turning leverage.
 

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Greg/Moderator
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If you have a welder just weld a nut on the end of the bolt. Putting a heat source on the end of the bolt will help break down the loctite, then cut a slot in the end to fit a big screwdriver and give it hit with a hammer while turning this might work too.
 

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V's and Z's
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
tried JB Weld....crumbled like a cracker

I'll go to a machine shop and get them to weld a nut onto it.
 

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Tired of the crap
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That particular screw is a real bastard. Its probably a little late for your situation, but for anyone else dealing with tricky fasteners - here are some tips to avoid trips to the machine shop or other desperate measures:

1. Make absolutely sure you have the right sized tool. Most, but not all V-Rod fasteners are metric. Also - make sure that the tools you are using are good quality. Measure across the flats with a cheap micrometer or caliper if you are in doubt.

2. If you come across a fastener that seems unwilling to come out easily - STOP before you apply brute force. Don't reach for that longer ratchet handle before you've let the penetrating oil sit on the screw for a while. In fact - its probably best to start out using the shortest ratchet you own.

3. Apply a couple drops of penetrating oil ahead of time. Overnight seems to work well - give the oil time to get down into the threads. Even if it doesn't seem like the oil will drip down through gravity, enough will get to the threads to make getting many stuck fasteners out a lot easier.

4. Heat also seems to work in many instances. Don't apply a blowtorch to your bike though. The tip of a soldering iron held on the head for a minute or two will often heat the part up enough to loosen threadlocker or corrosion in the threads.

5. Try and identify which screws will be likely troublemakers. Small diameter heads; screws that are exposed to a lot of moisture; and screws going into dissimilar metals (steel going into aluminum) can often be difficult to remove.

6. Removing tough fasteners is one skill where rushing will often end up costing you a lot of time. If you come across a stubborn screw or bolt - SLOW DOWN. The couple of hours you wait while you let penetrating oil work its magic will be far more pleasant than the hours it can take to remove a stripped screw.
 

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V's and Z's
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
so I'm learnin'
 

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V's and Z's
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4,093 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My buddy Joe came by and executed a shadetree solution. He hammered a small combo wrench onto the rounded-off head and heated the caliper with a torch, then used a longer wrench for leverage and it came off with quite a bit of effort.

I need a Mapp gas torch.
 

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V's and Z's
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
short

Look at my "Inspection sticker plate" thread...
 
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