[northam]

One early morning I couldn't start my bike. Turned ignition on, lights were good, pressed start button but heard only cracking sounds. It tried to turn the engine a little bit at the beginning though. When later I tried to start with jump starter connected directly to battery, the jump starter burned - nasty smelling smoke came out of it.

Any ideas what it would be or how to fix it? I've never experiences something like this.
Any help is appreciated.

Here is the video I took: https://youtu.be/9RMjna7QHxM

 

[rbabos]

One early morning I couldn't start my bike. Turned ignition on, lights were good, pressed start button but heard only cracking sounds. It tried to turn the engine a little bit at the beginning though. When later I tried to start with jump starter connected directly to battery, the jump starter burned - nasty smelling smoke came out of it.

Any ideas what it would be or how to fix it? I've never experiences something like this.
Any help is appreciated.

Here is the video I took: https://youtu.be/9RMjna7QHxM

Vid shows low battery effects. Not enough to engage the solenoid. What's the bat voltage, for the first step of diagnosing?
Ron

 

[northam]

Vid shows low battery effects. Not enough to engage the solenoid. What's the bat voltage, for the first step of diagnosing?
Ron

I am not at home at the moment, and can't check the voltage. Assuming it's a weak battery, then how to explain the cracking sound, and burned jump starter? Signs of a short or faulty circuit?

 

[rbabos]

I am not at home at the moment, and can't check the voltage. Assuming it's a weak battery, then how to explain the cracking sound, and burned jump starter? Signs of a short or faulty circuit?

The rapid clicking sound is the solenoid not staying kicked in. Usually lack of battery current. This can also happen if starter has too high an amperage draw dropping system voltage and the odd time the starter limiter can cause this effect of a weak battery, not turning the engine over as well. If battery checks out, do a voltage check on the solenoid itself. One terminal is battery, the other terminal needs the start button pushed. To get accurate readings here, the cable should be removed from the starter. This will rule out any resistance issue within the solenoid contacts themselves. If that checks out, test starter amp draw. If higher then normal , it could be the starter itself or the limiter. The starter can be ruled out by doing a amp draw test when it's off of the engine. If that's normal, most likely the limiter is slipping. It's all a process of elimination and an electrical SM helps a lot, especially for values . Nothing I saw in the vid should take out the jump starter as you call it.
Ron

 

[northam]

The rapid clicking sound is the solenoid not staying kicked in. Usually lack of battery current. This can also happen if starter has too high an amperage draw dropping system voltage and the odd time the starter limiter can cause this effect of a weak battery, not turning the engine over as well. If battery checks out, do a voltage check on the solenoid itself. One terminal is battery, the other terminal needs the start button pushed. To get accurate readings here, the cable should be removed from the starter. This will rule out any resistance issue within the solenoid contacts themselves. If that checks out, test starter amp draw. If higher then normal , it could be the starter itself or the limiter. The starter can be ruled out by doing a amp draw test when it's off of the engine. If that's normal, most likely the limiter is slipping. It's all a process of elimination and an electrical SM helps a lot, especially for values . Nothing I saw in the vid should take out the jump starter as you call it.
Ron

Thank you, Ron. I'll do tests on the weekend.

 

[rbabos]

Thank you, Ron. I'll do tests on the weekend.

I might add, if checking the battery, do a load test also. I've seen them come off a tender showing full charge voltage wise and then crash when starter load is applied. Full charge and load test will either confirm a battery issue or rule it out as the problem.
Ron

 

[pecee]

earth connection on front head can corrode causing high resistance cracking sound.check the strap and copper connection at head.

 

[northam]

Vid shows low battery effects. Not enough to engage the solenoid. What's the bat voltage, for the first step of diagnosing?
Ron

Bike started after I charged the battery. I tightened the battery connectors, just in case. Will monitor for next couple days whether the battery loses its charge.

My battery test video:

 

[zumbito]

Is this solved? I am having the same issue, and affter a couple tries (not as long as the video ones) I also got some smoke from the bottom of the engine (maybe because I was chaging the clutch fluid and burnt something, but I dont know).

 

[northam]

Is this solved? I am having the same issue, and affter a couple tries (not as long as the video ones) I also got some smoke from the bottom of the engine (maybe because I was chaging the clutch fluid and burnt something, but I dont know).

Yes. With replacement of a new battery. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S8ZH8GM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[zumbito]

Yes. With replacement of a new battery. Amazon.com: Weize YTX20HL-BS Battery, High Performance - Maintenance Free - Sealed AGM ETX20HL BS Motorcycle Battery: Automotive

Really? Nothing else worked? Not even charging? I thought you got it to normal voltage levels. Any idea of what was the smoke? I am having that too.

The rapid clicking sound is the solenoid not staying kicked in. Usually lack of battery current. This can also happen if starter has too high an amperage draw dropping system voltage and the odd time the starter limiter can cause this effect of a weak battery, not turning the engine over as well. If battery checks out, do a voltage check on the solenoid itself. One terminal is battery, the other terminal needs the start button pushed. To get accurate readings here, the cable should be removed from the starter. This will rule out any resistance issue within the solenoid contacts themselves. If that checks out, test starter amp draw. If higher then normal , it could be the starter itself or the limiter. The starter can be ruled out by doing a amp draw test when it's off of the engine. If that's normal, most likely the limiter is slipping. It's all a process of elimination and an electrical SM helps a lot, especially for values . Nothing I saw in the vid should take out the jump starter as you call it.
Ron

Hi Rbabos, I am a bit of a noob, so finding it hard to decypher all the info in this message.
1 What would be normal battery voltage? Checking off, on or engine running?
2 "voltage check on the solenoid itself. One terminal is battery, the other terminal needs the start button pushed. To get accurate readings here, the cable should be removed from the starter" How do I do these? I put one VM probe in the battery, but the positive or negative side? Where do I stick the other probe? Do I need to disconnect the selenoid? Never seen a selenoid but from what I see in google it is a connector behing the radiator, am I right?
3 Starte amp draw. You mentioned it has to be off the engine, is it easily accesible?

I will try to find an electric service manual.

 

[rbabos]

Really? Nothing else worked? Not even charging? I thought you got it to normal voltage levels. Any idea of what was the smoke? I am having that too.

Hi Rbabos, I am a bit of a noob, so finding it hard to decypher all the info in this message.
1 What would be normal battery voltage? Checking off, on or engine running?
2 "voltage check on the solenoid itself. One terminal is battery, the other terminal needs the start button pushed. To get accurate readings here, the cable should be removed from the starter" How do I do these? I put one VM probe in the battery, but the positive or negative side? Where do I stick the other probe? Do I need to disconnect the selenoid? Never seen a selenoid but from what I see in google it is a connector behing the radiator, am I right?
3 Starte amp draw. You mentioned it has to be off the engine, is it easily accesible?

I will try to find an electric service manual.

A good battery will read about 12.7v , bike not running. When running the voltage should read between 13.8-14.2 volts. When hitting the starter button, the voltage should not drop below 10v under starter load. This can be measured at battery, either terminal of the solenoid or right at the starter with the cable removed at the starter. When everything is all hooked up, if you drop below 9.5v in any of these locations , two things. Battery is weak under load. Load test it. Just because it can show 12.8 volts, doesn't mean it's good. Amperage is the work horse. If that's good, amp draw on the starter itself is too high, dragging it down. It can also be the starter clutch limiter simulating a bad starter. There is a normal amp draw for the starter but I have to look it up.
Ron

 

[zumbito]

How do you check starter amp draw?

 

[rbabos]

How do you check starter amp draw?

With an induction meter like in the vid above. Clamp it on any of the main cables and hit the start button. Ignore the initial draw. Steady cranking it should read between 80-120 amps. This is on a healthy system and only a starter draw test.
Ron

 

[zumbito]

Ok, thanks, I dont have one of those, will need to procure one.

 

[rbabos]

Ok, thanks, I dont have one of those, will need to procure one.

I doubt very much you need to get this deep into it. Most likely any problem you have can be done via load testing the battery first and then using a standard VOM for further checking.
Ron