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Discussion Starter #1
I have a '03 with Screaming Eagle 16 ga. double barrel pipes, filter upgrade and reflash. My bike pulls to the right more than my friends bike with the Screaming Eagle slip ons. If I let go of the handlebars the bike immediately heads to the right. I have to lean about 30 to 40 deg. to the left to keep it straight. My friends bike is very managable with out having your hands on the handle bars. I know this is not the way to ride the bike but it came to my attention and now I can't forget about it. Anyone have any information?
 

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ptrnfan,
Check air pressure I think you need 36 front, 38 rear cold reading also look at your front brake calapers... are the smooth ...are your pads hanging up .....
 

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Riding around
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ptrnfan, this right pull business has been driving me nuts, too, since my 10k service. I have no idea what changed, but I've had a definite dive to the right since then. I've got stock v-mods, which I had before and after the service, and no explanation for this change at all.

My suspicion is that the service change something in the configuration of my front end, but darned if I know what.

Please let me know if you find out anything!
 

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When they put on the rear wheel, while adjusting the belt tension, perhaps they messed up the adjustment. Wouldn't the bike pull to one side if the rear wheel tracking was off...? Wouldn't that show up when you compare the axle nut position between the right and left side?
 

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At my 1000k service, I lucked out and got a good tech at the stealer. He pulled out the service manual and checked all the front end specs...found that the fork sliders were not at equal length in the triple trees. He also went around the V-rods on the floor and found they were ALL out of spec. Afterward, I noticed it did not seem to lean anymore. If you have the service manual from Max, use that to get the measurements... you can do this with a regular ruler.

Greg
 

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Was told by the Service Tech who did the work on my 10K that the air pressure should be at 42 PSI front and rear. Put almost 2K on since his recommendation without any issues.
 

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Sounds like another one of those who read the MAX PSI on the sidewall and assume that's the proper pressure. 26 psi is the proper front pressure.

But I bet he's real good at hanging chrome :(
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Greg.......do you mean the fork tubes? And was the measurement the amount of fork tube exposed at the top of the top triple tree clamp? Please explain further.

I have checked the air presure in the tires and do so regularly.

Unless I'm mistaken the rear tire can't be misaligned because the axle has a cam on both sides for belt adjustment. Or am I missing something here?
 

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Sorry ptrnfan, I think faster than I type (not exactly a good thing) and I flubbed that one. Yes, I meant the fork tubes, or stantions to be exact. He told me the measurement was the amount sticking out of the top triple clamp. Should be in the manual. Anyway, it really made a difference in the way mine handled.

:slap2: I deserve that... I was just visualizing someone trying to adjust the fork SLIDERS. If they aren't right, I guess you could replace the fork spring with a solid steel bar..... DOH!
 

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Beside, air pressure would affect the handling in anyway BUT consistantly. You have something mechanical out of adjustment if you have a consistant problem. Seems most "techs" (and I use that term loosely) are quick to blame the rider, rather than just take the darned thing for a test ride. I would LOVE to get paid to ride my bike :)
 

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Thinking more about this problem of pulling to the right, inspect the front wheel bearings to see if one of them is dragging, or is not seated properly would be the a place to look. If one of them is going bad, the problem could be that it is causing the pulling to one side.

Is the rotor square? If the rotor is warped, it could be dragging on the caliper. Use a straight edge to check the rotor to be sure it is straight and not warped. Check it at the 12, 2, & 4 O'clock position accross the face of the rotor

Also, the pistons in the caliper may not be re-seating properly or hung up after release of the brake, causing a pull to one side. If that is the case, a disassembly is required to find out what is causing this component to hung up. You'll need to get the front wheel off the ground , once done, spin the wheel to see if it turns easily, or drags. A little brake drag could occur, and if it does, squeeze the brake handle a few times, and then release quickly, and try to spin the tire again to see what the results are.

If the pistons in the rotor are hung up, this could have been caused ny debris getting caught and drug into the mechanism. Have you done any quasi off roading? The type where there has been road debris that could not have been avoided and got picked up? Your radiator shrouds will advise you, if there has been a lot of debris there.

Dont forget, the caliper is an aluminum housing which is on the soft side, and is damaged easily. Did you lock the rotor with a padlock, forget to remove it and hit the caliper?

Are one of the fork tubes bent? When in for service if someone hit something with it, and not advise the Service Manager of the issue when test riding?

I have worked for many HD dealers, and believe me stuff happens. Just because these guys are working on these bikes day in and day out does not make them infallable to problems encountered while wrenching or riding.

I remember setting up an Electra-Glide, with 7 tenths of a mile on it, out of the crate, taking it for the test ride, and not more than 100 yards from the dealership, hitting sand while stopping and dropping the sucker on my right side. It was a pain in the ass to get the bike up, and I still have the damage on my right ankle, and that was 30 years ago. The bike had nothing wrong with it, as my body was the bumper, and nothing was advised to the owner of the dealership. This was the days when AMF was running the MoCo and business was difficult for HD dealers.

So I was the Service Manager, Parts manager and mechanic as well as the new bike assembler and detail guy. How dealerships have changed!! We had me and one other guy in the back running the service department area. Yea, I had worse nightmares happen to me, and if someone wants to stsart a nightmare thread about dumb things we do as humans, it'd put some people into side stiches.

Yes, the air pressure statement at 42 PSI I made was given to me by the tech (even glorified the mechanics psoitions these days too) and if it is max air pressure from the side wall, the thing is that with bleed down, if you are checking at every fill up, you'll loose 2 to 3 pounds of air pressure if not ridden daily, slightly less if ridden daily. less air makes for a softer ride as what MoCo specs, & a little slower in reaction, but it could be a place to see what would occur by raising the pressure. I agree it no doubt would not make that much of a difference, unless the front tire is seriously cupped from uneven roadware, and even then, if this is the case, install a new tire to insure personal safety.

As listed in this thread earlier, the fork legs if not set at the same measurement at the top triple tree will also cause problems. Also, If the legs are to high into the top triple tree to give the bike a lowered look, I'd run them back to the original set point to see how it acts.

I think that regardless of what type of header your running, the header won't cause a pull issue unless it is the size of a sail for a 20' boat.

If you check all of the above and finding nothing, check the tracking of front/rear tires, and the manual will explain that as well.

hope some of this helps to narrow down or catch the problem
 

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YOU SAY BIKE IS PULLING, THEN I WOULD SUSPECT SOMETHING ON FRONT RT SIDE CALIPER, ALSO FRONT TUBE STOCK PROJECTION SPECS AT 6.4-9.7 MM THAT IS .25-.38 IN. THAT IS THE AMOUNT OF FORK TUBE ABOVE UPPER TRIPLE TREE VERY EASY TO CHECK , THE ONLY THING THE DEALER WOULD CHECK ON A SERVICE WOULD BE FALL AWAY WHICH WOULD HAVE NO EFFECT ON A PULL PROBLEM, IF BIKE IS CRABBING THEN PROBLEM WOULD BE COMING FROM REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT , BUT I WOULD JACK BIKE AND SPIN FRONT TIRE AND VERIFY RT SIDE CALIPER AND GO FROM THERE
 

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Shelton,
Why are you yelling?
Typing in upper case means you are yelling.

Mine used to pull to the right also.That was before they had the entire frontend apart.At about 1000miles.All that left assembled was the wheel and tire.I had a popping and clicking sound when I put on the brakes.
All I know is that,it doesn't pull to the right and the forks turn so much easier and no popping sounds anymore.going on 1200miles since.It had something in the bearings in the triple tree.
 

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I know that a stuck caliper on a CAR will cause a pull, but it won't on a bike. Even just one on a twin-disc setup. If that was true, then any bike with one disc would pull when you hit the brakes. I am sure its either the head tube bearings or the setup of the fork tubes themselves. Seems I am not the only one that has had a significant improvement after the 1000mi adjustment. Probably an assembly line thing. Keep us informed as to what the final outcome is....

Greg
 

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Ptrnfan,

Did you ever get this issue resolved?

On Speedvision yesterday, there was a guy from GMD Computrack that explained what is up with the pull. He said if the front end is out by a quarter of an inch, youll be hanging off your bike trying to keep it straight.

It seems that checking front and rear wheel alignment, and front end setup (loosen all the triple tree fasteners a tad, and axle nut, and the top nut on the triple tree to align and re-torque) you should be able to bring it all back to spec.

Checking the alignment might be what you need to do.

Let us know if your problem was corrected or your still working on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Pulling to the right fix?

Thank you to all who replied.

I took the bike back to the dealer for the 2500 mile service and to have my swing arm pivot inspected (I had some play from side to side). Of corse the play was "within tolerance" but they replaced the bushings and pivot bolt. The end result was no play in the swing arm and much less pulling to the right.

So I'll leave it alone for now.
 

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Glad you got it taken care of. My bike will pull the right as well, but only if my hands are off the bars. I don't notice it at all if I'm even touching the bars. But I'm going to mention it at the 1K service I need to bring it in for...
 
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