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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
I may decide to do a few runs at the local strip (Kaukauna-WIR) this summer and am looking for suggestions on how to let her rip. I have tried some pretty hard launches but being only 145 lbs I tend to get a lot of wheel spin. This was before V-Mods, filter, and Race Tuner. Will the strip be easier due to the rubber on the track, I hope so. Although it is kind of fun to be side ways through first.

Any ideas appreciated. Come on Kaz.

Thanks
Ken
 

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If You Ain't Cav...
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2,069 Posts
...strap on a 240... that's only $2800 thank you very much! ;)
Good luck with your addiction!
Mike
 

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The Tin Man
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2,153 Posts
Forget the 240 - you probably can not get as sticky of rubber. Track is way stickier than road - they put down a chemical that can pull your boots off if you stand in it for awhile. You definately need a 28 tooth sprocket - standard on 2004. Set up goes like this. Pull around the water to keep front tire dry. Pull bike into center (dull looking) tire strip. Now back into water - back tire jusst in it. Rev it up to 6,000 or 7,000 rpm. With the bike wedged between your thighs - and you are braceing the bike - front brake locked - DROP the clutch. Tire should break loos. Hold bike straight with legs. As the rear tire begins to smoke lower your butt gently onto the seat and put your weight on it and then ease off of the break and move forward with the tire spinning - keep reves up. Pull clutch in. Drive forward and do a practce luanch/jump teating for traction and getting the feel for the launch. Slowly pull up to the lights and ease in to turn on first bulb. stop bile. lower shield and ease bike forward with the clutch. Ease the clutch in till there is no more drag. you should be within an inch or two of turning on the second bulb. Hold clutch constant at the point where you noticed no drag (in about 1") Rev bike to 6,000 RPM and listen to the engine so that there is no variation from here until launch. Ease the revving bike forward with feet (up near forward controls). You are leaning forward a bit over the tank (airbox). Watch as you ease forward for second light to turn on and when it does stop. Maintaining the revs you wait for the lights to begin to drop (a seconfdor two assuming opponent has already staged) . when last yallow bulb lights release the clutch(don't drop but release) and turn the throttle simultaneously. Keep it straight - get your feet up and be ready for the shift light to hit - I usually set mine at 8,250 to allow adequate headroom to avoid rev limiter. If no shift light good luck with the tach - I used to use the speedo w/calculated shift points - but often nailed the rev limiter.
Kevin
 

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spit happens
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5,532 Posts
I only thing that I do different,is that I don't do a dry hop.After the burnout I just pull up to the tree,and clear out the Demon carbs.This was with my cars.
I have not yet raced a bike at the track,but plan to this year.
 

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The Tin Man
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Vinny,
I have done it both ways - if your bracket racing it is important that your set up is always consistent in order to keep engine similar temp as well as mental prep. I find the dry hop useful as it allows nme to reherse the launch and gets me prepared for the launch. BTW the one thing that I ommitted is that the bike needs to be at operating temp. I use an infra red temperature gauge and heat it to 150 prior to staging - this takes a little practice to ensure that you are ready when called - not to ho(lose HP) and not to cold (ECM drops rev limiter to 8,000 ).
Kevin
 

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Banned
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Kevin,
once again you have given a Very Good and Through answer. :thumb: My setup is allot more complicated because of NOS,Slick,Air Shifter,Wheelie Bars all have to be right.My Bottle pressure/Temp has to be just right.I do a 2 gear burnout.Very Smokey and ride it out of the box Pro Stock Style. :kaz: The main thing is be consistent"Launch/Shifting Technique.Work on one change at a time and keep Notes in a Racers Log book. :cool: Have fun and Make as many passes as you can.Seat Time is the Key! ;)
 

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The Tin Man
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I BTW do a first gear burn-out - I have heard some say that 2nd is superior but I have always been uncomfortable with that approach - Rick and Jamie - are you guys doing 1st or 2nd gear burnouts?
 

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When it's cold I tape up my Radiator Shroud,and warm it up in the staging lanes. :cool:
 

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The Tin Man
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I didn't know that it got cold in Los Vegas - or do you mean when the engine is cold i.e. not hot....... Don't you use an infra red light also - you also have a temp gauge don't you? Does that work for making sure that you are at the right temp?
Kevin
 

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FASTESTSTKBLTDRV
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kspz3 said:
I BTW do a first gear burn-out - I have heard some say that 2nd is superior but I have always been uncomfortable with that approach - Rick and Jamie - are you guys doing 1st or 2nd gear burnouts?
WE DO THE SAME THING YOU DO KEVIN,BURN OUT,TEMP,DRY HOP.
TEMP IS THE MOST IMP. TIRE PRESS.WE CHECK BOTH BEFORE AND AFTER.
 

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Banned
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kspz3 said:
I didn't know that it got cold in Los Vegas - or do you mean when the engine is cold i.e. not hot....... Don't you use an infra red light also - you also have a temp gauge don't you? Does that work for making sure that you are at the right temp?
Kevin
I'M ON MY SECOND GUN"Broke the 1st!" :tmbsdow: Just use my Gauge now and it's works great!It's 85 today but YES it gets Cold Here! :cool:
 

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Registered F'n User
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kspz3 said:
Forget the 240 - you probably can not get as sticky of rubber. Track is way stickier than road - they put down a chemical that can pull your boots off if you stand in it for awhile. You definately need a 28 tooth sprocket - standard on 2004. Set up goes like this. Pull around the water to keep front tire dry. Pull bike into center (dull looking) tire strip. Now back into water - back tire jusst in it. Rev it up to 6,000 or 7,000 rpm. With the bike wedged between your thighs - and you are braceing the bike - front brake locked - DROP the clutch. Tire should break loos. Hold bike straight with legs. As the rear tire begins to smoke lower your butt gently onto the seat and put your weight on it and then ease off of the break and move forward with the tire spinning - keep reves up. Pull clutch in. Drive forward and do a practce luanch/jump teating for traction and getting the feel for the launch. Slowly pull up to the lights and ease in to turn on first bulb. stop bile. lower shield and ease bike forward with the clutch. Ease the clutch in till there is no more drag. you should be within an inch or two of turning on the second bulb. Hold clutch constant at the point where you noticed no drag (in about 1") Rev bike to 6,000 RPM and listen to the engine so that there is no variation from here until launch. Ease the revving bike forward with feet (up near forward controls). You are leaning forward a bit over the tank (airbox). Watch as you ease forward for second light to turn on and when it does stop. Maintaining the revs you wait for the lights to begin to drop (a seconfdor two assuming opponent has already staged) . when last yallow bulb lights release the clutch(don't drop but release) and turn the throttle simultaneously. Keep it straight - get your feet up and be ready for the shift light to hit - I usually set mine at 8,250 to allow adequate headroom to avoid rev limiter. If no shift light good luck with the tach - I used to use the speedo w/calculated shift points - but often nailed the rev limiter.
Kevin

Hey - new to the site. Very clear directions above, but I want to know if this will work for my bike, a 2004 VRSCB with a stage 1 and STOCK gearing. I was running it at Great Lakes Dragway last Thursday, and could not do better that 12.3 @ 111 mph. Kept bogging down at launch. I did a 13.7 on my brother's stage 1 '05 Dyna Wide Glide, and had much better 60' times on that run than ever on my V-Rod. :confused: When I asked local fast guy Rob Schopf the best way to launch MY bike, he said pop the clutch at 8500 rpm. Sound right?
 

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The Tin Man
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2,153 Posts
pwrmad said:
Hey - new to the site. Very clear directions above, but I want to know if this will work for my bike, a 2004 VRSCB with a stage 1 and STOCK gearing. I was running it at Great Lakes Dragway last Thursday, and could not do better that 12.3 @ 111 mph. Kept bogging down at launch. I did a 13.7 on my brother's stage 1 '05 Dyna Wide Glide, and had much better 60' times on that run than ever on my V-Rod. :confused: When I asked local fast guy Rob Schopf the best way to launch MY bike, he said pop the clutch at 8500 rpm. Sound right?
PWR - that procedure is for 2004 geared (28 tooth front sprocket) bike. Make sure that the t5rack has good traction and tire at around 28PSI - - should get 1.75 to 1.80 60s depending on your weight.
KSP
 

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Greg/Moderator
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Kevin could you tell me how much I lose running the taller Avon with a 28 tooth pulley

Thanks Greg
 

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Registered F'n User
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Cheatin said:

HA HA! At least that hasn't happened to me yet. I like how he gets up and tries the "I'm still cool" walk. Damn, how embarrassing. :rofl2:

So that launch technique will work for my bike - 28-tooth gearing and 111 rwhp? Does anyone here have experience launching a bike like mine at 8500 rpm? Will it hook up and take off, bog, or spin?
 

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VRRRRRROD!
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pwrmad said:
So that launch technique will work for my bike - 28-tooth gearing and 111 rwhp? Does anyone here have experience launching a bike like mine at 8500 rpm? Will it hook up and take off, bog, or spin?
Depends on your clutch release & tire grip. At the track with a burnout & good grip, you can hook up & lift the front tire off the ground a little with a hard launch (not just dumping the clutch).
Dumping the clutch will bog the motor or get the tire to spin if you don't have enough traction. Spinning is usually what happens on the street also, especially at street tire pressures.
 
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