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Yeah, but what if...
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Discussion Starter #1
My bike has stocl suspension. I did have the Screaming Eagle heavier weight fork oil, but I think when I fixed the front end, the normal stuff went in becasue I seem to have more dive under breaks.

So I am reviewing the whole set-up. I DO NOT want to lower it, I don't want less lean angle than I have now.

What is the best performing set up for v-rods that does not involve changing out the front forks? I see lots on progressive 440's and legend air-rides etc etc, but usually in a different context to my question.

I want the suspension that will improve performance and handling.
 

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Color me Gone
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27,333 Posts
Karl I think most of the 440's are shorter but they may offer a similar length to stock. Proggresive makes a nice heavy suspension for this bike.
 

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Friend of Max.
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21,719 Posts
Karl, I think the Progressives 440 can be bought in the stock 13" configuration. They have a front suspension spring package in the stock length too.

There are better shocks out there, like Ohlins but they are much more $$, and I don't think considering the geometry of the V-Rod that it would be worth it. :2cents:

RJ
 

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Registered USDA
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4,229 Posts
The 440's were available last year stock length. I am assuming this has not changed. I have the 440's on the back & their springs up front. The bike feels much more planted.
 

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Movin' on....
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5,297 Posts
Would changing out stock suspension to something like was just described above help with riding over very bumpy road country highways? I was riding (maybe a little too fast but I can't help myself) on a rough road and it felt like half the time the bike was not even in contact with the road. It was so bumpy my helmet was bouncing (and it actually fits very well). I love this bike but it's not a fun experience to ride roads like that and there are a lot in this area.
Thanks for any suggestions!!
 

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Friend of Max.
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21,719 Posts
********* said:
Would changing out stock suspension to something like was just described above help with riding over very bumpy road country highways? I was riding (maybe a little too fast but I can't help myself) on a rough road and it felt like half the time the bike was not even in contact with the road. It was so bumpy my helmet was bouncing (and it actually fits very well). I love this bike but it's not a fun experience to ride roads like that and there are a lot in this area.
Thanks for any suggestions!!
You'll be plesently surpriesd how these shocks change the bike. I was AMAZED at the difference.

RJ
 

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Part-time mod
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10,859 Posts
I have the Prog 13" 440's and fork springs on my bike...LOVE THEM!!!
 

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Yeah, but what if...
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4,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
669 for the rear and 79 for the fork springs. US. As quoted on their website. On current exchange rates that is about 750 and 90 AU$ - total AU$840

On the phone now to Morgan and Wacker to see what they are going to charge me (the importer is in Sydney.

Shocks 950, fork springs 130 - AU$1080

In other words $240 dearer, but I would need to add shipping. Probably not worth stuffing around buying them OS on this occasion.
 

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Friend of Max.
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21,719 Posts
Karl Scott said:
669 for the rear and 79 for the fork springs. US. As quoted on their website. On current exchange rates that is about 750 and 90 AU$ - total AU$840

On the phone now to Morgan and Wacker to see what they are going to charge me (the importer is in Sydney.

Shocks 950, fork springs 130 - AU$1080

In other words $240 dearer, but I would need to add shipping. Probably not worth stuffing around buying them OS on this occasion.
Take a look at MAWonline.com

They are qite a bit cheaper than that.

RJ
 

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Fah q 2
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2,690 Posts
gsxrdoug said:
I like the Race Tech and gold valves.
the gold valves are not available for our forks
 

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1,531 Posts
santeg said:
the gold valves are not available for our forks

i thought they were??? was planning on them this winter with progressive 440's out back...
 

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EXCELSIOR
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8,460 Posts
Karl, an old trick we used to use on dirt bikes (back in the day) was to drill/tap the fork tube caps for Schreter valves and pressurize them with air for additional and adjustable spring.
There was also a kit that would run a small air line from each cap through a "tee" fitting to a single fill valve. It gave you a larger volume of air to work with, insured that both were pressurized equally and made it easier to adjust.
Just 5-10 PSI made a surprising difference.
If you reallize that you fill the tubes to about 3" from the top with fluid then you are using the remaining air space as a spring anyway. Air is a compressible where as the oil is not, if you fill the tube to the top with oil the forks would not compress at all.
This does nothing to change damping characteristics.
 

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Michael J
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740 Posts
racetech.com for all your suspension needs
 
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