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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I dug up some threads on this via the search function, but they were all older.

I currently run the V&H Comp series exhaust. It literally scrapes before my pegs even do, and it is unnerving when it happens since I am scraping a relatively expensive piece of equipment across the asphalt.

I am interested in some of your experiences with different exhausts with regard to ground clearance. I would like to be able to do some "spirited" riding up in the mountains without having to worry about right hand turns. I'm not concerned with whether it is a 2-1 or 2-2. Bonus points if it looks appealing. I'd prefer black to match the DX.

I have been looking at the Trask 2-1 exhaust. It appears as though it sits high enough to provide adequate ground clearance, but I would love to hear all of your thoughts.

Thanks!

- Joe
 

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I agree - I'll never ride a M/C that scrapes anything other than the foot pegs. It's stupid and potentially dangerous in the mountains when leaned over, ( see touring bikes crashing from floorboards scraping at tail of the dragon ), not to mention every time you hear the scraping it's the sound of money coming out of your wallet. Trask is a nice new pipe, looks high enough - also Bassani Road Rage B1 will never scrape, excellent performance pipe, Akropovic very light but mufflers in close so may scrape, or if moneys an object you may be able to modify your Comp pipe muffler bracket to pickup the muffler angle from the ground, or buy a used stock header and aux chamber and install some TAB, SuperTrapp or Kerker slip-ons. Also adjust your rear shock preload up a couple clicks higher. I've got an out of production Bub 7 on an R model with mid pegs and a custom mount bracket - if I ever scrape that I've fallen down - it won't scrape while riding. Good Luck with it ! (y):cool:
 

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I dug up some threads on this via the search function, but they were all older.

I currently run the V&H Comp series exhaust. It literally scrapes before my pegs even do, and it is unnerving when it happens since I am scraping a relatively expensive piece of equipment across the asphalt.

I am interested in some of your experiences with different exhausts with regard to ground clearance. I would like to be able to do some "spirited" riding up in the mountains without having to worry about right hand turns. I'm not concerned with whether it is a 2-1 or 2-2. Bonus points if it looks appealing. I'd prefer black to match the DX.

I have been looking at the Trask 2-1 exhaust. It appears as though it sits high enough to provide adequate ground clearance, but I would love to hear all of your thoughts.

Thanks!

- Joe
Trask is an interesting pipe. Fairly new to market so feedback will be scarce.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I agree - I'll never ride a M/C that scrapes anything other than the foot pegs. It's stupid and potentially dangerous in the mountains when leaned over, ( see touring bikes crashing from floorboards scraping at tail of the dragon ), not to mention every time you hear the scraping it's the sound of money coming out of your wallet. Trask is a nice new pipe, looks high enough - also Bassani Road Rage B1 will never scrape, excellent performance pipe, Akropovic very light but mufflers in close so may scrape, or if moneys an object you may be able to modify your Comp pipe muffler bracket to pickup the muffler angle from the ground, or buy a used stock header and aux chamber and install some TAB, SuperTrapp or Kerker slip-ons. Also adjust your rear shock preload up a couple clicks higher. I've got an out of production Bub 7 on an R model with mid pegs and a custom mount bracket - if I ever scrape that I've fallen down - it won't scrape while riding. Good Luck with it ! (y):cool:
That's great feedback. Thanks. I'll take a peek at the Bassani Road Rage system.

Trask is an interesting pipe. Fairly new to market so feedback will be scarce.
Ron
Noted. It appears to sit a little higher and tucked in better than the V&H Comp, but I suppose looks could be deceiving. Thanks, Ron.
 

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Use the metal frame rail under the fuel tank as your gauge. If it's below that rail it's going to scrape, if above most likely it won't. The lower the bike the higher above that frame rail it needs to be. Trask looks pretty high up, the Bassani is way up there - stock aux chamber is pulled in tight and slip on mufflers high up so very little or no chance of scraping it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Use the metal frame rail under the fuel tank as your gauge. If it's below that rail it's going to scrape, if above most likely it won't. The lower the bike the higher above that frame rail it needs to be. Trask looks pretty high up, the Bassani is way up there - stock aux chamber is pulled in tight and slip-on mufflers high up so very little or no chance of scraping it.
Good observation. That's a nice way to gauge that.
 

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That's great feedback. Thanks. I'll take a peek at the Bassani Road Rage system.



Noted. It appears to sit a little higher and tucked in better than the V&H Comp, but I suppose looks could be deceiving. Thanks, Ron.
I doubt any pipe is worse then the V&H for dragging. Poorly though out. Pretty sure the Trask has clearance as part of the design. I run the Akrapovic and it has lots.
Ron
 

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That V&H Comp pipe was designed as a drag race competition exhaust, hence the name they gave it. And Yes, it was never fully thought out as a street bike exhaust where you actually lean the bike to turn unlike a straight up drag race run which is what it's for - and it's a very good performance exhaust. Remember the muffler can be repositioned higher with a little bracketry work, a curved collector could also be made to mount the muffler further up & aft. My Bub 7 has the bmw m3 resonator on it so it's longer and goes almost to the rear axle - that's where I like the straight thru noise to come out, as far away from my damaged right ear as possible. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I doubt any pipe is worse then the V&H for dragging. Poorly though out. Pretty sure the Trask has clearance as part of the design. I run the Akrapovic and it has lots.
Ron
That V&H Comp pipe was designed as a drag race competition exhaust, hence the name they gave it. And Yes, it was never fully thought out as a street bike exhaust where you actually lean the bike to turn unlike a straight up drag race run which is what it's for - and it's a very good performance exhaust. Remember the muffler can be repositioned higher with a little bracketry work, a curved collector could also be made to mount the muffler further up & aft. My Bub 7 has the bmw m3 resonator on it so it's longer and goes almost to the rear axle - that's where I like the straight thru noise to come out, as far away from my damaged right ear as possible. :cool:
Makes sense. Unfortunately, I had no say in the matter, as this is the pipe that had already been installed on the bike when I bought it. I do like the way it sounds, though.

I took some time this morning to loosen up the exhaust bracket that connects the muffler to the frame, jacked it up a little bit, then tightened everything back up. I got a little bit of upward and inward repositioning out of it. It still scraped on the way in to work today without the peg ever touching. 🤷‍♂️

Looks like I'm stuck dealing with it until I pony up the dough for something more suitable.
 

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Bikerboy - I'm not sure those are Knuts bikes, they may be random pics or maybe one of those R's are his ? ( they look like different bikes, but maybe different times, same bike ? ) so he may not have your answer but In any event someone probably had to tweak the bracket a bit, re-drill it or replace it with a custom bracket. I got like 30 manhours in mine but the Akro pipe looks quite a bit easier to mount up with a modified bracket than my Bub7 - it was a bitch using an A Model stock exhaust mount bracket but it's a bulletproof install once done -(y):cool:
 

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Nice! I've never seen an Akropovic mounted on a bike with mids!!! How did you get it under the foot pegs? Custom bracket???
I have seen Street Rods with mids & Akra, with and without the heat shield under the footrests. But assume the system is mounted with some downward pressure during assembly. It's my "R" in both pictures, to get sufficient clearance the lower header was extended by 4 inches. The stainless pipe was TIG welded by a professional to get a more or less matching finish... The advantage of the extension is that the muffler gets a steeper angle in terms of appearance. Yes, you have to custom made the muffler bracket too.
 

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motor had been changed out in the first one, looks like a nightrod 1250cc ??....... is that an easy swap, anyone know? ..... is it worth the power to weight ratio?
A used 1250cc Engine is about $ 2500, plus installation if you can't do it yourself $ 500 & tuning - you get 10 extra Hp so $ 300 a Hp ? BUT that black engine in Knut's R looks $ 3000 better to me ! Is it Worth it Frogman ? I hope so ! I got much more than that in engine tools, 1250cc Cases, Jones stage 2 cams & Screaming Eagle heads with AV & V racing valves plus my labor but I'll get another 25 Hp for $ 5000 so what only $ 200 a Hp ? - WHAT A BARGAIN !! :ROFLMAO: Yes, we're crazy. I could get 165 Hp for the same money with a Turbo but don't want the added weight, or looks of a Turbo on the bike. But that's just me - we're all are crazy in different ways, I think it's worth it if you want it, can pay for it without breaking the family and you can make it happen ! (y):cool:
 

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I only paid $1,200 for a used 2007 D motor with 8K on it back in 2017, changed it out myself, I wanted the black cylinders eventually blacking out the rest of the motor............ Plus I now have a complete 1130 for spare or upgrade............ been at this too many years ........ let's make it got faster $$... ok, now faster $$$, ok, well you know $$$$$$$$ no end to it once you get going ......... I just want to get rid of the factory neutering and give it the power it should have
 

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That's a hell of a deal for a D Engine with only 8K on it ! Best deal all Black 1250cc engine I've seen was at a auto salvage yard in Canada went from $ 2895 down to $ 2200 plus shipping, import fees, almost bought it but so many unknowns with an untested engine out of a crashed bike from a foreign country. Finally decided building my own out of known components was the way to go - invest in the stand, tools etc and have some fun building my own engine, really looking forward to it - (y) :cool:
 
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