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Guys,
I cannot begin to tell you how valuable everyone's insight is on this sight. WHat I need to know is if I put on a 28 tooth sprocket, how & exactly where are the belt tensions adjustments. Are the on both sides of the axel? Do I have to lossen them both & does the bike have to be on a lift to do so?

I am contemplating Harley putting on thier kit, But as the almighty & Wise MAX has stated, I like riding highways myself, so if it's easier to swtich the sprockets I would rather by the TT. Also DOes the Belt if Purchase go on with out takening everything apart?

I can't thank you brothers enough for all the knowledge!
 

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spit happens
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5,534 Posts
You can use the stock belt wit the TT pulley,but the axle adjusters will be all the way out.You don't need to remove the belt,to change pulleys.
 

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Pat's Fan
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363 Posts
I believe the manual states that belt tention should be around 5 or 6 mm @10 lbs. But I told that the dealers are stating that its better with 10mm @ 10lbs. I used the latter and have had no problems.

One interesting note: Only from my point of view. I never had any luck with the stock belt and the 28T. All the different times i tried to tighten or losen it always seemed to squeek. I ended up buying the belt for the 28T and since then ive never heard a squeek. (i didnt do this by choice.........i believe i got a rock caught in my belt and the thing snapped right in half.) If you do have or want to change the belt its an easy job.........dont fret!
 

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HOTSH
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120 Posts
how do you make sure the wheel is straight after you take it off? I've been racing and wrenching on cars for years but this is the 1st time I've woked on a bike. I already have the hd pulley and belt I just need to do it. thanks
 

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Color me Gone
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mustrick when you rotate the tire it has a cam on each side that in theory will keep the wheel straight.

Max
 

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HOTSH
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Max said:
mustrick when you rotate the tire it has a cam on each side that in theory will keep the wheel straight.

Max
Are the cams locked together then? All I have to do is get the belt tension right?
 

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Janitor of Anarchy
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172 Posts
mustrick said:
Are the cams locked together then? All I have to do is get the belt tension right?
There's a cam on each end of the axle and on the swingarm there's a nipple adjacent to the cam that acts as a follower to push the axle back. The cams are fixed to the axle.

The right end of the shaft has the tightening nut. On the right end of the axel is a snap ring--dont remove it and be careful while working the nut. You loosen the tightening nut and turn the bolt-end on the left side slowly to adjust the axle's postion. There's no individual adjustment for either side. As Max said, in theory, as the cams are fixed on the axle the axle should stay true.
 

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If You Ain't Cav...
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So wise ones, by reading this one could summize....
Since I put my polished rear pulley and 149 tooth drive belt on, I have gotten quite a bet of belt noise from the drive or front pulley. To alive this chatter, I should tighten the drive belt? Any others out there with the simmilar issue? I remember reading about this about 10 months ago...
Mike
P.S. This is not meant to be a rhetorical question! ;)
 

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VRODScout said:
So wise ones, by reading this one could summize....
Since I put my polished rear pulley and 149 tooth drive belt on, I have gotten quite a bet of belt noise from the drive or front pulley. To alive this chatter, I should tighten the drive belt? Any others out there with the simmilar issue? I remember reading about this about 10 months ago...
Mike
P.S. This is not meant to be a rhetorical question! ;)
I just did the HD MoCo 28T kit w/149T belt and read elsewhere about some people using 10mm deflection. I dialed my tension in at just less than 8mm @10lbs and it is very quiet.
 

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Old Guys Rule
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reichard said:
As Max said, in theory, as the cams are fixed on the axle the axle should stay true.
And of course that is only in theory. Some bikes you do have to make an individual adjustment at the cams. The nut side cam will not be true to the fixed cam because of slop. You will know this because the cam will wiggle back and fourth when the nut is loose. Just make sure the cams are aligned up with the swingarm pin at the exact same spot. You can pretty much eyeball it. If you really want to get it exact, you can form a coat hangar and bend the ends and measure from the middle of the swingarm bolt to the middle of the axle bolt. The measurement should be the same on both sides.
 

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SNAFU
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Mike,

I found that loosening the belt to the 10mm @ 10lb setting cleared most of the noise. I also lubricated the cush drive with silicone. Those 2 things made most of the noise go away though I still get a little whine depending on temperature.

Mark
 

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Making the UK Fatter
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mjw930 said:
Mike,

I found that loosening the belt to the 10mm @ 10lb setting cleared most of the noise. I also lubricated the cush drive with silicone. Those 2 things made most of the noise go away though I still get a little whine depending on temperature.

Mark
How are you guys measuring the 10lb?
 

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SNAFU
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I've used 3 ways. The first way was an "I don't have any other scale in the house". the others were after I decided the first way was not optimal ;) I currently use option #3

1. With the bike as upright as possible place a bathroom scale under the midpoint of the belt, between the front and rear sprockets, find a piece of wood, metal, tool, etc that deflects the belt exactly 10mm (~1/2"). Tighten the belt until the scale reads 10 lbs.

2. Use a fishing scale with a loop tied around the lower portion of the belt. Pull up 10lbs and measure the deflection

3. Buy the harley tool for $10 :) (it's a simple tool but very easy to use and worth the $$$ if you don't have a fish scale.)

Mark
 

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Making the UK Fatter
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2,606 Posts
mjw930 said:
I've used 3 ways. The first way was an "I don't have any other scale in the house". the others were after I decided the first way was not optimal ;) I currently use option #3

1. With the bike as upright as possible place a bathroom scale under the midpoint of the belt, between the front and rear sprockets, find a piece of wood, metal, tool, etc that deflects the belt exactly 10mm (~1/2"). Tighten the belt until the scale reads 10 lbs.

2. Use a fishing scale with a loop tied around the lower portion of the belt. Pull up 10lbs and measure the deflection

3. Buy the harley tool for $10 :) (it's a simple tool but very easy to use and worth the $$$ if you don't have a fish scale.)

Mark
Thanks for reply.

If it is a tenner I 'll pick one up, but its probably £19.99 in the UK ($35).
 

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Tired of the crap
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mjw930 said:
3. Buy the harley tool for $10 :) (it's a simple tool but very easy to use and worth the $$$ if you don't have a fish scale.)
Considering how much discussion we see on: belt tensioning; strange noises coming from the back end; 28T vs. stock pulleys; wider rear tire options; polishing pulleys; etc. etc. I'm suprised more folks DON'T just buy the little Harley tool. It doesn't take much space in your toolbox, and for $10 it can save a pile of headaches.

The only downside to the tool is that, in order to use it correctly, you need to put on the original stock lower belt guard (actually I believe H-D refers to it as a debris deflector) - it has little window punched in it with a scale marked showing how much the belt deflects at the specified pressure. I'm sure that some enterprising V-Rod owner out there has figured a way to measure the deflection without this - but I still have to put the ugly black plastic guard on whenever I check belt tension. Fortunately its something I do only once a year or so.
 

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SNAFU
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I simply set a tape measure on end with the metal tape pointing up and past the belts midpoint. That gives me a very good idea of deflection, either MM or Inches.
 

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Premium Member
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do not over torque

the manual says do not torque the axle nut more than 105 foot pounds as this could cause bearing failure, rear wheel lockup resulting in serious injury or death. (it would also probably cause your testicles to withdraw from your scrotum).
 

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Tired of the crap
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danafwelch said:
the manual says do not torque the axle nut more than 105 foot pounds
This is one of the very few adjustments that the average user will encounter on the V-Rod with such a high torque value. My biggest torque wrench only goes to 75 ft/lbs - so I've had to borrow a bigger one for the couple of times I wanted to check the torque on this fastener.
 

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vroddrew said:
This is one of the very few adjustments that the average user will encounter on the V-Rod with such a high torque value. My biggest torque wrench only goes to 75 ft/lbs - so I've had to borrow a bigger one for the couple of times I wanted to check the torque on this fastener.
With my 16ga exhaust in the way, I can't fit my torque wrench and socket on the nut. I'd need another 3/8" of clearance. I just gave it a guestimated grunt for now.

I just did the MoCo 28T kit, and the flange nut is at 118 ft/lbs. I did a doubletake when the repair manual indicated 95-105 for the axle nut.
 

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Biker Pilot
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I talked to a tech at the Morgan Hill HD shop in California this weekend. DanaFWelch and I were riding after doing his 5k service. We noticed that my belt was significantly tighter than his, so we asked the HD tech about it. He felt both belts and immediately said that they were both OK....each at its respective limit of tightness. (In retrospect, I guess that this means that neither was exactly right.) Bottom line...it sounds like it's not rocket science...close enough and no bad noises might be good enough????
 
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