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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello folks. The other night I was riding the bike home from work and noticed my coolant light was on. When I got home I checked my coolant level and noticed it was lower than it should of been, however I also noticed that even with the bike completely turned off, this coolant light is staying illuminated which makes me think there’s some sort of electrical issue. I also scanned for codes on the bike and the code I got was “B1007”. Could this B1007 code be the reason this coolant light is staying on constantly? Or are there two separate issues with the bike? In the process of doing a radiator flush now. Going to top her off with engine ice and then take the bike for a ride and see if the coolant light goes off. I’m open to any advice/suggestions. Thanks in advance
 

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Sounds to me like the code B1007 was the start of the fault, and the light is the result of the fault.

Code B1007 will be displayed when ignition line voltage is greater than 16.0 Volts for more than 5 seconds.
This is telling that your instruments are getting too much
voltage.
I would check the battery and ground cables first, make sure they are free of corrosion and tight at all 3 points. Check the voltage at the battery with a voltmeter meter while running at idle and at 2500 rpm. If voltage is high the voltage regulator probably the problem, however stator with one bad leg can also cause a over voltage condition. I would check the whole charging system at that point, just for peace of mind.

As far as the Overheat indicator, that is triggered by the ECU and uses the ECT sensor (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) as the temperature reference. It is located in the back of the thermostat housing) I would disconnect the sensor and turn the ignition on. If the overheat light goes out, the sensor is probably the issue. If the overheat light remains on, then there is a wiring, circuit board or even the ECU issue from the Over-voltage condition. BTW you will set another code by disconnecting the sensor when testing.

If the Overheat light still is on with the key off, you need to isolate the circuit from the ECU to the Instrument cluster (best done by the speedo connector) and remove the one line from the connector.
If the Light is still on, the the circuit board inside the speedo is probably the issue. After figuring out the light issue, I would address and repair the Over-voltage issue first, so you don't have further problems down the road. And always retest and confirm that the repairs fixed the issue.
Hope this helps
 
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as a couple of guys on FB told you last night, just put some black tape over the light haha but seriously if its not overheating i would bet on the ect sensor being bad,
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
as a couple of guys on FB told you last night, just put some black tape over the light haha but seriously if its not overheating i would bet on the ect sensor being bad,
I know it’s just that light is driving me nuts lol. I’m trying my best to Trouble shoot this thing on my own but there’s so many different things it could be it’s driving me nuts. Just want my bike to be problem free for the summer
 

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Just gave you the Logic tree to diagnose your problem in order. You have to find out what it is, by what is isn't.
Sherlock Holmes and Watson found their answers that way.
Called process of elimination. Instead of chasing your tail.
If you keep riding with a overvoltage condition it's gonna get expensive and even possibly blow up the battery.
We are talking over 16 volt for a length of time, longer than 5 seconds. Thats more than a glitch.
 
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Overvoltage is caused by the Voltage regulator not doing its job.
 
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