Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an '06 VRSCR and went from a 28t front sprocket to Fitzgerald's 26t sprocket. I can't get the needed tension for the belt. My belt is a 149t about 1.5 in wide. Ive seen 147t but they are an inch wide. I don't think I should run the thinner belt on the stock rear pulley. Not sure if it will matter or not. I've seen something about axle cam spacers. Anyone have some info on these, and if they would be an option. This is a drag bike only. Best ET with 28t was 11.44 at 118 mph. 1.75 60'. Looking for more pull off the line
607652
 

·
VRSC est -03
Joined
·
2,984 Posts
A machining workshop can turn the pulley down to 1 "width.
The bonus is that 1" belt is stronger compared to the older 1 3/8 "belts.
 

·
"Vrod King"
Joined
·
913 Posts
Why not go with a chain drive and dump the rubber bands? With a chain drive you have a better choice of gearing too. Vreelands HD can get you set up with one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
624 Posts
You can put some small square stock in front of the cam to push it back a bit further. I used crazy glue to hold them while I tensioned the belt when I tried the 26.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,345 Posts
Those damn junk cam drive belt adjusters. Great idea till you try to actually adjust or change the belt, they even spin when you tighten the axle down and change the adjustment. Not good. I went with a 30 tooth and stock belt & had to carefully file the beginning ( small end ) of the snail to get them to adjust the belt evenly with the axle all the way forward - it worked but you're at the opposite end all the way back which is great for drag racing but harder to adjust to so if you want to still use the belt I'd figure out what the proper adjustment is using spacers and cam like moler said or just lightly tighten the axle measuring both sides from the center of the swingarm pivot to get the belt adjusted on the tight side of the allowable deflection then I'd cut a piece of flat stock with a hole for the axle and install them in place of the cam adjusters. This way the wheel can't get out of alignment with hard launches at the strip and it's super easy to R&R the wheel for tire changes. Just a thought. At least with a chain you could take links out and get within the range of the snail cam adjusters but I wouldn't use them even with a chain - I'd still create a set of custom flat stock axle blocks and keep the axle as far back in the slot as possible at the correct belt or chain tension. Just a thought. (y) :cool:
 

·
"Vrod King"
Joined
·
913 Posts
Those damn junk cam drive belt adjusters. Great idea till you try to actually adjust or change the belt, they even spin when you tighten the axle down and change the adjustment. Not good. I went with a 30 tooth and stock belt & had to carefully file the beginning ( small end ) of the snail to get them to adjust the belt evenly with the axle all the way forward - it worked but you're at the opposite end all the way back which is great for drag racing but harder to adjust to so if you want to still use the belt I'd figure out what the proper adjustment is using spacers and cam like moler said or just lightly tighten the axle measuring both sides from the center of the swingarm pivot to get the belt adjusted on the tight side of the allowable deflection then I'd cut a piece of flat stock with a hole for the axle and install them in place of the cam adjusters. This way the wheel can't get out of alignment with hard launches at the strip and it's super easy to R&R the wheel for tire changes. Just a thought. At least with a chain you could take links out and get within the range of the snail cam adjusters but I wouldn't use them even with a chain - I'd still create a set of custom flat stock axle blocks and keep the axle as far back in the slot as possible at the correct belt or chain tension. Just a thought. (y) :cool:
I had to make my own axle adjusters and stops, because no matter how tight the axle nut was I would rotate the axle on the cams with a hard launch.
 
  • Like
Reactions: streetrodracer

·
Registered
Joined
·
207 Posts
I took 5mm keystone & tack welded to the cams. Works well. Even works when I reinstalled the 28. A couple tacks, & bend around cam, then tack end & cut to length. Easy peas

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
The problem with the thinner belt is that the rear sprocket keeps the belt centered to the front sprocket.Therefore, the belt would be wondering all over the place & would eventually throw it or even worse break it.I would contact the front sprocket manufacture for advice & direction......
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top