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INFANTRYMAN
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715 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my friends 09 NRS has Arnott shocks, and on two different occasions the airline started leaking.

The airline used with these shocks are call Macro line. They are widely used in the Paintball industry on the guns/markers. I know this as I played for many of years.

The older style lines that was used were steal braided, and a lot stronger. Now these didn't allow a quick take on or off, unless you ran a quick slide disconnect.

Also the Macro line is cheaper, and more user friendly when twisting or routing around things. The issue with this line is they go back from heat, cold, or squished by anything. IE if you push on it you can deform the line and it won't reshape back, you basically have to cut that section off.

The connectors for Macro line are also great for ease of maintenance, but leak all the time unless the line is 100% straight in it.

So after dealing with this twice on my buddies bike, I told him screw it and we slapped on the steal braided line. Now it's been over a month with no issue.

Thought I would share, and like to one place that sells the line.

Ran the new line from the pump to the Vent Solenoid housing.





Link to where someone can buy the line I speak of.

http://www.actionvillage.com/store/Stainless-Steel-Hoses_C687.cfm

http://www.actionvillage.com/store/Gas-Fittings_C681.cfm




:)
 

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day dreaming...
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1,795 Posts
good info! Can you tell me which elbow that fits arnott's check valve and solenoid?
 

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Premium Member
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7,727 Posts
Great idea. I still do not understand the issues with leaking lines. I have had the same lines on my bike for over 4 years now and never had a single leak with the line or fittings.
 

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INFANTRYMAN
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715 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
good info! Can you tell me which elbow that fits arnott's check valve and solenoid?
I used the standard 90* ones, but you can use any of them. In Paintball they standardize the thread sizes, so the second link-second row-center two is what I used. Any of the color ones will works also. I just used the silver ones due to having more to them making them stronger. Plus no need for colors.

Great idea. I still do not understand the issues with leaking lines. I have had the same lines on my bike for over 4 years now and never had a single leak with the line or fittings.
Their are a lot of factors I would think.

I myself live on FT. Bragg in NC. This winter was a cold one for NC, as I have lived up north and NC really doesn't get cold. But cold enough for the line to crack as I don't have a heated garage.

Also another factor might be you got better lines. IE I am sure Arnott doesn't only buy Micro line from one company. They may have gotten behind and had to buy from another to meet the needs of shock sets going out the door. Some micro lines come stiff or more bendable depending on who makes it. And it's one of those things you don't know as they don't print the manufacturing name down the side of the line.

Back in my paintball days. My team used to buy these things in bulk, and sift through it all to find the best ones and trash the rest as it's a cheap airline.

The point Arnott went with micro line I believe is due to the ability to take it off and put back on quickly as needed. But you can do the same thing with a slide quick disconnect and steal braided lines. I would just prefer the later as it is stronger and hold up better in the long run.

I don't even want to begin to guess how you have had the same line for four years. But for my friends bike it needed something stronger and better. So this is what I did.
 

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day dreaming...
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1,795 Posts
The connectors for Macro line are also great for ease of maintenance, but leak all the time unless the line is 100% straight in it.
I completely agree with this statement. don't ask how I know :D thanks a lot for this info, friend!
 

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Premium Member
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1,494 Posts
thanks
 

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Hi... I'm Big Will
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1,087 Posts
Great idea. I still do not understand the issues with leaking lines. I have had the same lines on my bike for over 4 years now and never had a single leak with the line or fittings.
Same here, however I had the main fitting in to the compressor go bad only because i removed and re-attached it about 1000 times. The o-ring finally broke. Other than that mine have had no issues either.
 

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MODOHOLIC ANONYMOUS
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7,448 Posts
mine has leaked since i got it. i removed it a while back for my turbo install and now it doesn't leak. odd but this might explain it
 

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Wick
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546 Posts
Had mine on for 2 years no leaks.
 

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Vendor
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5,940 Posts
No issues here at all and mine have been taking off for engine removal several times over a 3 1/2 yr period. Matter of fact getting ready to install another set but black for operation BIG Red. :)
 

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Registered
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4,221 Posts
the distribution block had a hairline crack in it, on my set. arnotts hooked me up pretty quick with a new one. but i like your idea.
 

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Premium Member
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6,248 Posts
So my friends 09 NRS has Arnott shocks, and on two different occasions the airline started leaking.

The airline used with these shocks are call Macro line. They are widely used in the Paintball industry on the guns/markers. ...
Did Arnott change the fittings they use?

The setup I purchased in 2008 has fittings made by Voss and these are quite reliable. There are three o-rings in the Voss design as shown in this drawing and the lines can be moved several degrees from "straight in" and not leak. The only leak problem I've had is with the check valve for the compressor.
 

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Bladerunner
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1,949 Posts
[bookmarked]





(jussst in case...)
 

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Registered
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43 Posts
Sorry to resurrect an older thread. The Arnott's on my 2007 have been leaking quite a bit, causing me to have to add air while riding, needless to say this is rather annoying. I am not a "mechanic" by any means but I can get around a garage okay, where would be the best place to start looking? It seems they are leaking intermittently, but if I let it sit for 30+ minutes at full height, there is no air left. Thanks for the help!!
 

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SpeedoDocter
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2,364 Posts
I had a fast leak down lately and the thing that did the trick (eventually) to me is to deflate and spray a bit silicone oil around the voss-fitting/air-line and push the line in and out a bit to get a nice 'new' seal.
If it still leaks fast you should pump it up hard (like 20/30 seconds extra pump action when seat reached top) than spray soapy water around the fittings to find a possible leak. Hope it helps... Angelo.
 

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Registered
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43 Posts
I had a fast leak down lately and the thing that did the trick (eventually) to me is to deflate and spray a bit silicone oil around the voss-fitting/air-line and push the line in and out a bit to get a nice 'new' seal.
If it still leaks fast you should pump it up hard (like 20/30 seconds extra pump action when seat reached top) than spray soapy water around the fittings to find a possible leak. Hope it helps... Angelo.
Will try this tonight, thank you....any particular brand of silicone spray?
 

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Defender of Freedom
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716 Posts
Like Dutch said the voss fittings are the usual culprit. The next most common failure point is the actual manifold. Some of the older generation Arnott's were prone to cracks in the manifold causing a leak. It may be worth the trouble to just look at replacing all the voss fittings and using new plumbers tape on the threads. Over time it may just be that the plumbers tape on the threads has eroded to the point it's allowing air to escape at the fitting without the fitting truly being the problem.
 

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Premium Member
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6,248 Posts
Like Dutch said the voss fittings are the usual culprit. The next most common failure point is the actual manifold. Some of the older generation Arnott's were prone to cracks in the manifold causing a leak. It may be worth the trouble to just look at replacing all the voss fittings and using new plumbers tape on the threads. Over time it may just be that the plumbers tape on the threads has eroded to the point it's allowing air to escape at the fitting without the fitting truly being the problem.
The leak can also be at the check valve in the compressor. That's where mine leaks and it's very hard to bubble test (e.g., using Snoop or Windex). I installed a ball valve to isolate the compressor from the distribution manifold and the shock pressure is good for several weeks.
 
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