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Personally, if you need that, it's time to rebuild. 20/50 as is , is pretty damn thick for engine lube and going thicker can have some negative effects, not gains. In gear apps it tends to induce air into the oil from testing I've seen. Air does not lubricate and occupies space that oil could fill. Mains and rods come to mind, for that wedge effect. For me, it would be a good assembly lube but that's about it. Even there, there are better specialty use products for that. Very similar to STP or Motor Honey of the old days. I have a bottle and the only use I have for it is I brush a dab on the right swing arm bushing. Seems to migrate like crazy from one spot to other.
A few years back I added some to my snow blower. Could not start the bastard to save my ass. Slow motion pull start effect. Had to heat the case, drain it and put normal oil back in. I didn't even use that much in the mix. That was my last thought on using it in oil from there on. Then again, if you have a smoking rod knocker, what's it going to hurt, right ?
Ron
 

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Shelby Stanga Rocks
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My take on most of these lubes are they had their time. Many seem to work with conventional oils much better than the syns. Now being that some of these oils are so thin it may make ya want to thicken it up. 0W-5??? I think that is warm butter.
I think in places like a 4 speed Harley trans, or some old gearbox thing on a tractor it could help. In a modern car say anything in the last 20 years maybe not so much.

I have used it to "make" a grease. We had a Land Rover and the front 4x4 axle seals were leaking. The Landrover grease was crazy high price. So I took some NLGI #2 Chassis grease and Lucas mixed it together and when it looked right I packed it in. That was about 50K ago.

I worked with a guy who added that to his 427 Chevy oil changes every time. When we rebuilt it 60,000 miles of hard use we reused the main and rod bearings. The motor dynoed at 580HP. That was with a carb and we know they like to add that fuel smell to the oil. It was in 20W50 I think Castrol. He did put it in everything he owned and all fluids. The Trans stuff in the automatics things like that.
 

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Lucas -It's really good, can be really bad. Be careful with it.

I got a 1972 Tractor with the original engine in it here in Florida ( Damn Hot most of the time we're cutting grass ) I run straight 40 weight oil with 25% Lucas in it runs perfect. Made the mistake once of using 30 Wt with no Lucas it smoked like a brush fire, audible rod knock when not under a load. So a smoking rod knocker like Ron says. So it's great for any old, loose, worn engines, and like Chuck says I use it in the gearbox also.

In a REVO engine ? I'd be concerned that it's a friction modifier and might make the clutch slip, but the " Pure Synthetic " version bottle I have says " Controls heat and wear in high performance motorcycles, especially Harley Davidson ( Use 25-30 % )" I'm presuming that's for air cooled separate transmission bikes because it also says " For 4 Stroke Motorcycles with wet clutches use 10% " So don't ever use more than that.

Bottom Line ? Great for old worn engines/gearbox's in a hot climate. Original formula not good for snowblowers/cars in cold climates that aren't preheated, also might raise oil pressure too much if too much is put in. Use only the thinner synthetic version in cold temps or tight newer engines that use the thin "energy conserving" oil weights. In the owners manual of my Chevy T/B SS with a LS2 it tells you do not ever use 20/50wt or oil additives, I think mainly to avoid excessive oil pressure. I blew the fwd oil pump seal out of my Toyota 22R engine with cool 20/50 oil and too many revs so you gotta watch that potential excessive oil pressure side effect with heavier weight oil and oil additives. :banghead: :blahblah: :D
 

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Oil is a funny thing. New engines are tight tolerances and require lighter oils for quick lube. They also last a gazzilion miles compared the the 60s-70s technology. Had a 3 liter mini van once and it called for 10/30. I used 10/40 a couple of times and each time I experienced some lifter clacking on cold start ups. Took a couple of changes before I made the connection. Never did it with the 10/30 because the lighter grade pumped the lifters up quicker. I stayed with the recommended grade from there. Case in point, thicker is not always best and with winter cold starts it would likely kill the engine much sooner then a free flowing oil. My Hyundai Accent calls for 5w20 and was going to go with 10/30 once. I was warned against it. Tight engine, small oil passages are not thick oil friendly and based on my mini van experience, I wasn't going to fk with it. While the Revolution isn't what I'd call a real close tolerance engine, I think the practical limit of viscosity shouldn't be pushed beyond the 20/50. Syn will also lube a bit better on cold starts then dino as the flow is better when cold.
Ron
 

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Shelby Stanga Rocks
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Rbabos, I want o add that a HUGE part of the longer life on motors is the lack of a carb. When the same 50's small block Chevy went with EFI like the Vortec 350 they went from 50-80K motors to 200K plus. The fuel dilution that you get with a carb is huge. Fuel cut the oil modifier and the base. How to clean an oily part throw it in a tub of gas.

When we would dyno a race motor it runs for 20 mins tops including warmup. With a properly tuned carb and cutting the BSFC to low.4 to high.3s (thats real good) after the runs the oil would smell like race fuel.
BSFC Brake Specific Fuel Consumption The amount of fuel used make power the lower the number the better. Most Hot Rods are about .5 (street cars) Its the simplest way to explain. For those that know I am sorry for the way to simplistic definition.
EFI motors on the dyno using the same oil and fuel no smell or no where near as strong.
The choke/ rich idle carb issues and poor tune and older cars with weak spark all lead to fuel dilution.
Worked with a guy who converted his 3.9L Dakota to propane. Changed the oil every 20,000 miles. Had over 400k on it before it got wrecked.

So in my humble opinion its better combustion efforts that is the real reason for long life.
 

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Rbabos, I want o add that a HUGE part of the longer life on motors is the lack of a carb. When the same 50's small block Chevy went with EFI like the Vortec 350 they went from 50-80K motors to 200K plus. The fuel dilution that you get with a carb is huge. Fuel cut the oil modifier and the base. How to clean an oily part throw it in a tub of gas.

When we would dyno a race motor it runs for 20 mins tops including warmup. With a properly tuned carb and cutting the BSFC to low.4 to high.3s (thats real good) after the runs the oil would smell like race fuel.
BSFC Brake Specific Fuel Consumption The amount of fuel used make power the lower the number the better. Most Hot Rods are about .5 (street cars) Its the simplest way to explain. For those that know I am sorry for the way to simplistic definition.
EFI motors on the dyno using the same oil and fuel no smell or no where near as strong.
The choke/ rich idle carb issues and poor tune and older cars with weak spark all lead to fuel dilution.
Worked with a guy who converted his 3.9L Dakota to propane. Changed the oil every 20,000 miles. Had over 400k on it before it got wrecked.

So in my humble opinion its better combustion efforts that is the real reason for long life.
Absolutely the case. I still remember those damn bi metal choke deals. That's why I get upset seeing some of these tunes so rich. Stock you never smell gas in the oil unless it's had extreme amount of starts and short runs. Too many tuner throw fuel at a situation to fix a problem. Starts with a base cal that's set up rich to prevent initial damage but long term it will kill the engine, be it washing the cyls or diluting the oil viscosity.
Ron
 

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Shelby Stanga Rocks
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Todays tune up is not what it used to be. So back top the OP, yes I like the stuff in certain situations. I also am one to think that oil is not oil. I will spend the extra to get at least what I feel is good stuff.
When you understand all the things that oil has to do the few extra bucks is a piece of mind.
 

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I use the Lucas motorcycle oil stabilizer here in Texas. I called Lucas and asked about the stuff. Because of my trans output gear failures twice. I was told this is what I should use. And it is ok in synthetic oil. The first time I used the stablizer my rod bearings failed. And it looked like lack of lube. (But not sure.) Because I was having other issues that caused engine failure. But there is a possibility this oil could have caused this. I have installed a higher flow oil filter which may allow more oil to flow. So far engine is ok. But I believe that trans output bearing needs something more to deal with the stresses that is imposed on it.So I am still running this stablizer.I have since replaced my electric oil gage w a manual gage and oil pressure hit 80 one time on a very cold day when I drove off quick after start up. But I have not seen 80 again. I let it warm up lol.Oil pressure is at 60 to 65 at 180 deg water temp. At a hot 210 (because 210 in the fall is different)oil pressure is 20 to 25.
 

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Hey night rod Rob what percentage are you running ? Yes, the output bearing can be highly loaded if the belt tension is incorrectly set ( and you correctly adjusted it ) but many guys here have over 100K miles on the original bearing so it can make it a long time with regular oil. As we've spoken before I confirmed that one of my brand new output bearings was damaged in the package from H-D, all the balls marked & dinged. And I can imagine the combination of Lucas getting sucked up by the oil pump if ( it's just squirted into the sump ) and not thoroughly mixed with the 20/50 oil in about the 10% Volume they suggest could result in excessive oil pressure and reduced oil flow when the filter gets a load of it and it coats the filter paper until it bypasses - be sure to use the synthetic version of Lucas Stabilizer as its thinner than the original formula. And yea, your new high flow filter will get more oil out to the engine faster without bypassing especially if its higher viscosity. Good Luck to ya, hope that engine hangs in there for 100K miles !
 

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I use the Lucas motorcycle oil stabilizer here in Texas. I called Lucas and asked about the stuff. Because of my trans output gear failures twice. I was told this is what I should use. And it is ok in synthetic oil. The first time I used the stablizer my rod bearings failed. And it looked like lack of lube. (But not sure.) Because I was having other issues that caused engine failure. But there is a possibility this oil could have caused this. I have installed a higher flow oil filter which may allow more oil to flow. So far engine is ok. But I believe that trans output bearing needs something more to deal with the stresses that is imposed on it.So I am still running this stablizer.I have since replaced my electric oil gage w a manual gage and oil pressure hit 80 one time on a very cold day when I drove off quick after start up. But I have not seen 80 again. I let it warm up lol.Oil pressure is at 60 to 65 at 180 deg water temp. At a hot 210 (because 210 in the fall is different)oil pressure is 20 to 25.
I take it you mean 20-25 hot idle pressure. 60-65 down the road is what I see also. Speaking of 80 psi, I've only seen that once as well taking off down the road and oil just warm and not up to temp yet. Only once though. Normally 70-75 in those conditions. That's with a stock filter, 20/50 Amsoil. Amsoil seems to drop viscosity quickly with temp but I've not tried other oils to see if idle psi is better with others. It's fine though as is.
Ron
 

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Well it has 87 197 on it now. Well I dont think the guys with that 100k ride it like u stole it lol. I believe to many rpms can cause my issue over time as the bearing races become weaker. Thats the excuse for the first bearing failure it went to approx 85k. Any way the stabilizer, I read to install entire bottle. Believe its 12ozs or 16ozs cant remember since I only bought the one bottle as a test. I ride it daily so far so good. Yep u are correct,hot idle 20 to 25psi. The other is running down road. Yep this oil pressure drops the same, the warmer the engine.
 

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A lot of long answers and opinions on this product.
Short answer is, as long as you use a good high quality oil (preferably synthetic), you don't need this. That's all.....
That's how I see it also. I do have a small bottle of Valvoline high mileage additive which is a dead ringer for Lucas. In this case it states for high mileage engines where wear has either degraded ring seal or oil pressure has headed south. A last resort to squeeze every last mile out of the engine, basically. It nowhere states to add to a healthy engine to increase life. Only area of additives I'd consider is ZDDP as both Amsoil and Mobil1 have reduced the levels from years ago. If Valvoline VR1 was clutch friendly, I'd use it over the rest due to the zinc level in the oil.
Ron
 

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Shelby Stanga Rocks
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THis guy does some basic tests with many different products. in this one he has some 70 year old Quaker State and compares it to some modern Quaker State. He sends some out for testing to see what is in it. THat old oil might do well with Lucas.
Fun vid to watch.
https://youtu.be/-zHlxeu_yuM
 

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Ok I am talking about motorcycle oil stablizer. It not just for worn out engines. Or at least not like what's mentioned in the opening thread. Motorcycle Oil Stabilizer 12oz - 10727

100% PETROLEUM base
Reduces engine temperatures and friction
Extends oil life
Increases oil pressure
Increases power and fuel mileage
Will not sludge or varnish
Cools and quiets engine and gear boxes. And I can say for sure engine is quieter. And valves are set ok Lol.The video where it is showing that bearing wear is what I am hoping to deter in my tranny.
 

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THis guy does some basic tests with many different products. in this one he has some 70 year old Quaker State and compares it to some modern Quaker State. He sends some out for testing to see what is in it. THat old oil might do well with Lucas.
Fun vid to watch.
https://youtu.be/-zHlxeu_yuM
Funny about the old Quaker State. Back in the 60s it was known for causing serious engine sludge. Mechanics could almost tell it was used by the amount of crud in the tappet covers. Literally fully packed other then where the valve parts were sitting. I've seen it first hand, myself growing up in those days. This was pre PCV engines on the most part back then. While the oil has improved, I've never gone near it since after it left a bad taste in my mouth.
Ron
 

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Shelby Stanga Rocks
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Now that you say that I remember my Dad talking about that when John Force was sponsored by Quaker State. He was a Pennzoil man. But yes I have seen that sludge. Not my Motor...

 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thank you folks for replies.
I handed my op question over to MecTec who answered:
"I don't really believe in that, but it's up to everyone to test.
I believe in a good oil than you put in a lot of extra additives that should already be in the oil.
Here is a similar product not unlike Lucas treatment":http://www.stp.eu/en/products/oil-additives/oil-treatment-petrol
 

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Stp does contain zddp (zinc) where Lucas doesn't claim it has. A very valuable anti wear additive to prevent metal to metal scuffing as a last resort. Both Amsoil and Mobil 1 have reduced this amount over the years. Very important in flat tappet camshafts among other areas. Most of the modern auto oils have eliminated zddp and gone to other additives for the same task. However, flat tappet engines will destroy themselves using it, so the choice of oils is important .For our engines, the choices of good motorcycle blend oils works just fine. Yes mc oils are a bit different then auto blends. For us, it's which mc oil withstands sheer the best, due to the trans, which has a nasty habit of chopping up the multi grade molecules and thinning the viscosity. Viscosity break down in the form of fuel dilution is another area of concern with these engines. Stock tune, no problem but some of the tunes out there are over rich , that can cause problems.
Ron
 
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