VRSC est -03
Personally, if you need that, it's time to rebuild. 20/50 as is , is pretty damn thick for engine lube and going thicker can have some negative effects, not gains. In gear apps it tends to induce air into the oil from testing I've seen. Air does not lubricate and occupies space that oil could fill. Mains and rods come to mind, for that wedge effect. For me, it would be a good assembly lube but that's about it. Even there, there are better specialty use products for that. Very similar to STP or Motor Honey of the old days. I have a bottle and the only use I have for it is I brush a dab on the right swing arm bushing. Seems to migrate like crazy from one spot to other.Great or not? Let us know your opinion aka educate us!
Absolutely the case. I still remember those damn bi metal choke deals. That's why I get upset seeing some of these tunes so rich. Stock you never smell gas in the oil unless it's had extreme amount of starts and short runs. Too many tuner throw fuel at a situation to fix a problem. Starts with a base cal that's set up rich to prevent initial damage but long term it will kill the engine, be it washing the cyls or diluting the oil viscosity.Rbabos, I want o add that a HUGE part of the longer life on motors is the lack of a carb. When the same 50's small block Chevy went with EFI like the Vortec 350 they went from 50-80K motors to 200K plus. The fuel dilution that you get with a carb is huge. Fuel cut the oil modifier and the base. How to clean an oily part throw it in a tub of gas.
When we would dyno a race motor it runs for 20 mins tops including warmup. With a properly tuned carb and cutting the BSFC to low.4 to high.3s (thats real good) after the runs the oil would smell like race fuel.
BSFC Brake Specific Fuel Consumption The amount of fuel used make power the lower the number the better. Most Hot Rods are about .5 (street cars) Its the simplest way to explain. For those that know I am sorry for the way to simplistic definition.
EFI motors on the dyno using the same oil and fuel no smell or no where near as strong.
The choke/ rich idle carb issues and poor tune and older cars with weak spark all lead to fuel dilution.
Worked with a guy who converted his 3.9L Dakota to propane. Changed the oil every 20,000 miles. Had over 400k on it before it got wrecked.
So in my humble opinion its better combustion efforts that is the real reason for long life.
I take it you mean 20-25 hot idle pressure. 60-65 down the road is what I see also. Speaking of 80 psi, I've only seen that once as well taking off down the road and oil just warm and not up to temp yet. Only once though. Normally 70-75 in those conditions. That's with a stock filter, 20/50 Amsoil. Amsoil seems to drop viscosity quickly with temp but I've not tried other oils to see if idle psi is better with others. It's fine though as is.I use the Lucas motorcycle oil stabilizer here in Texas. I called Lucas and asked about the stuff. Because of my trans output gear failures twice. I was told this is what I should use. And it is ok in synthetic oil. The first time I used the stablizer my rod bearings failed. And it looked like lack of lube. (But not sure.) Because I was having other issues that caused engine failure. But there is a possibility this oil could have caused this. I have installed a higher flow oil filter which may allow more oil to flow. So far engine is ok. But I believe that trans output bearing needs something more to deal with the stresses that is imposed on it.So I am still running this stablizer.I have since replaced my electric oil gage w a manual gage and oil pressure hit 80 one time on a very cold day when I drove off quick after start up. But I have not seen 80 again. I let it warm up lol.Oil pressure is at 60 to 65 at 180 deg water temp. At a hot 210 (because 210 in the fall is different)oil pressure is 20 to 25.
A lot of long answers and opinions on this product.Great or not? Let us know your opinion aka educate us!
That's how I see it also. I do have a small bottle of Valvoline high mileage additive which is a dead ringer for Lucas. In this case it states for high mileage engines where wear has either degraded ring seal or oil pressure has headed south. A last resort to squeeze every last mile out of the engine, basically. It nowhere states to add to a healthy engine to increase life. Only area of additives I'd consider is ZDDP as both Amsoil and Mobil1 have reduced the levels from years ago. If Valvoline VR1 was clutch friendly, I'd use it over the rest due to the zinc level in the oil.A lot of long answers and opinions on this product.
Short answer is, as long as you use a good high quality oil (preferably synthetic), you don't need this. That's all.....
Funny about the old Quaker State. Back in the 60s it was known for causing serious engine sludge. Mechanics could almost tell it was used by the amount of crud in the tappet covers. Literally fully packed other then where the valve parts were sitting. I've seen it first hand, myself growing up in those days. This was pre PCV engines on the most part back then. While the oil has improved, I've never gone near it since after it left a bad taste in my mouth.THis guy does some basic tests with many different products. in this one he has some 70 year old Quaker State and compares it to some modern Quaker State. He sends some out for testing to see what is in it. THat old oil might do well with Lucas.
Fun vid to watch.