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Discussion Starter #1
Well I called my guy at the dealership today and gave him the go ahead on the stage 2 kit. I will be getting the Stage II Cam Kit, Destroyer Throttle Body and Destroyer Injectors. This will add to my SERT topless, and Force Street Fighter Pipes, and 60HP shot of Nitrous. Anything I should know during this process? Also with this set up has anyone ran a 26T pulley? Thanks guys!! I'm excited to get this on the street when were all done!
 

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'04 1300
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Just a heads up, it'll be very difficult to get a decent street tune with the Destroyer injectors on a stock displacement motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just a heads up, it'll be very difficult to get a decent street tune with the Destroyer injectors on a stock displacement motor.
Does the issue come with delivering too much fuel and not being able to cut it back enough? I told the dealer I thought this might be an issue but they were convinced that I would need the new injectors. I was not completely opposed to it because I run a 60hp shot of Nitrous so the extra fuel will make sure I don't go lean, but I am more concerned about getting a good tune so there is no popping and stuttering.
 

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Frank
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The injectors are not as big an issue in my opinion as the throttle body. Those throttle bodies are set to idle at around 2000 rpm (due to the Destroyer heads and cams). You will find that there is not enough range in the IAC (Idle Air Control) servo to compensate. If you are confidendent enough, you can attempt to reset (and sync) the butterflies for a less open position.

BTW, how are you running the 60 shot? If it has it's own fuel source, the injectors would do nothing for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The injectors are not as big an issue in my opinion as the throttle body. Those throttle bodies are set to idle at around 2000 rpm (due to the Destroyer heads and cams). You will find that there is not enough range in the IAC (Idle Air Control) servo to compensate. If you are confidendent enough, you can attempt to reset (and sync) the butterflies for a less open position.

BTW, how are you running the 60 shot? If it has it's own fuel source, the injectors would do nothing for you.
I am not by any means claiming to know much about this at all, just going by what the dealer told me. I am running the Boss Noss system if that helps. What are you suggesting I do to the TBs? I am not confident enough in myself to mess with any of that, but would like an idea of what you mean. Is this even a good idea on my set up?
 

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Frank
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I am not by any means claiming to know much about this at all, just going by what the dealer told me. I am running the Boss Noss system if that helps. What are you suggesting I do to the TBs? I am not confident enough in myself to mess with any of that, but would like an idea of what you mean. Is this even a good idea on my set up?
Which Boss Noss system are you running? If it is the on that taps into your tank and has a controller that brings additional fuel in when the NOS is active, then the injectors will do nothing at all for you and may make turning a challange.

As for the throttle body, I would send yours (or another core) out to Fitzgerald Motorsports and have it (and your stacks) bored to 58mm. They will come back sycronized for the normal idle speed, ready to go. You could also go with a Zippers, but I feel the new Fitzgerald version is better.

Bottom line, save yourself around $500 and some headaches and have an equal or better running bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Which Boss Noss system are you running? If it is the on that taps into your tank and has a controller that brings additional fuel in when the NOS is active, then the injectors will do nothing at all for you and may make turning a challange.

As for the throttle body, I would send yours (or another core) out to Fitzgerald Motorsports and have it (and your stacks) bored to 58mm. They will come back sycronized for the normal idle speed, ready to go. You could also go with a Zippers, but I feel the new Fitzgerald version is better.

Bottom line, save yourself around $500 and some headaches and have an equal or better running bike.
I have called and e-mailed Fitzgerald Motorsports just waiting to hear back, I am sure he is rather busy. My BN system does not tap into the tank it has the nozzles that mount to the stacks and spray down. I will still need the stage 2 cam kit from HD correct? I have contacted the dealer and told them to STOP all work on the bike until I call them back...they are good to me so we will see how it goes. Look forward to getting this all ironed out and done.
 

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Frank
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I have called and e-mailed Fitzgerald Motorsports just waiting to hear back, I am sure he is rather busy. My BN system does not tap into the tank it has the nozzles that mount to the stacks and spray down. I will still need the stage 2 cam kit from HD correct? I have contacted the dealer and told them to STOP all work on the bike until I call them back...they are good to me so we will see how it goes. Look forward to getting this all ironed out and done.
Stage 2 kit is a great deal. You will just not use the stacks that come with the kit.

On the BN kit you have, do you know how it enrichs the fuel mix when applying NOS? Do the nozzles mounted to the stacks have 'Y' fitting on them with a red and blue color?
 

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'04 1300
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Sounds like it's the 'dry' BN that boosts the injector pulse width to supply the extra fuel when on the nitrous. The destroyer injectors will provide some additional 'headroom' in that application.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have the BN Fueler I have 2 of the 2 lb bottles that go into the tuner then the fuel lines come off the tuner and to the stacks....keep the info going, still waiting to hear from Fitzgerald...
 

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As far as the 26T and the NOS goes, will depend on what use will you give your new "steroidized" machine, street only, street/strip or strip only. In my case, what's holding my NOS install is I would like to have a Nitrous controller so the HP bang is not so sudden and I don't flip the bike over my head...moreover if you're planning a 60HP shot, which can make your bike unstable with the 'sudden HP impact'. In case you haven't checked this, for your spare time:

:nos:
http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94636
 

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Destroyer TB's are easy enough to adjust.

Loosen up idle screw until blades are just touching the bores, the crank them off about 1/4 turn.

I found my sync to be off about 6cfm at 2,000 RPM. I used a synchronizer to get them evened out, but in the absence of one (good luck finding one at a dealership - I ordered a Carbtune from England),



With the lower airbox cover off (since you cant really get to the adjuster with it ON):

Get the idle set first.

Then loosen the locking nuts on the butterfly linkage, start the bike and lock the throttle thumbscrew at around 1,800RPM. Rotate the linkage back & forth - you'll hear/feel the motor smooth out when the bores are in synch. Rotate to both points where the motor starts to un-smooth (counting the turns) and split the difference. This should get it close enough without a manometer gauge.

As far as injectors go.

The bike is going to need a DYNO TUNE ANYWAY. Assuming you're going to tune with SEPST (as most dealerships will), they can set the injector size before they start doing pulls.

In absence of head work (and increased flow), your injector duty cycle is not going to be close to where you'll really see a benefit by going up to the destroyer injectors - but your tune will dial them in and give you a margin of safety when spraying.

Rick
 

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Frank
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I have the BN Fueler I have 2 of the 2 lb bottles that go into the tuner then the fuel lines come off the tuner and to the stacks....keep the info going, still waiting to hear from Fitzgerald...
You say the 'Fuel Line' comes off the tuner, do you really mean fuel as in gasoline or are you calling the NO2, fuel (which it is not)?

If it is an additional gasoline source coming off their controller to mix with the NO2 at the stack, then the stock injector should be fine. If the only line running to each stack is NO2, then as Buckeye stated, the Destroyer injectors might not be a bad idea.

Frank
 

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To everyone: Ok, first of all sorry, I feel like I'm hijacking here, I have too much free time today and looking for info have stumbled with vrsc2007dx's other posts since they are somehow related. If I'm bothering too much just let me know and I will pull back, OK?

To vrsc2007dx: Maybe you know all this, maybe you don't, I don't know as much as most of the people here, but I've been researching on the same topics and if I can help you clear some doubts, we both benefit from the info...

A) Just for reference for Frank (Bad V-R) and SickRick, here is one of vrsc2007dx's former thread,
http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148736

I replied you in another thread about the 26T pulley but will paste it here in case I'm misleading you in any way and more experienced members can rectify the info:

Originally Posted by vrsc2007dx
I originally posted a stage 1 question and that was answered, think I already have all of that done. Here is my current setup:

2007 VRSCDX
Topless w/ K&N air filter
Force Street fighter pipes
Screaming Eagle Race Tuner
Boss-Noss 2-30hp nozzles = 60HP w/ BN Tuner
Slipper Clutch
Arnott Air Ride
260 Rear Tire

I would like to do the 26t Pulley but I've been told that wasn't the greatest idea with the BN system. Is the 26t pulley safe with this set up once the stage 2 is done?

My question now is what do I need for the stage 2 kit? What cams are everyone using? These 30076-09? Also what 58mm throttle body is recommended and tested? Lastly should I go with the destroyer injectors?

Once all of this is done is it going to hurt to still be running a 60hp shot of nitrous? Thanks for all the info, bike is in the shop now I might want to get this done while it's still there so the info is much appreciated!![
FABSTER
I think you have most of these questions answered, as for the 26T pulley, it will give you a little punch at launching your bike and will make the shifts "shorter"since the engine will reach higer revs quicker with the smaller pulley. Are you in for drag racing? Go for the 26T... Long Rides? Don't do it.

As for the NOS, the combination of the 26T pulley and the 60 HP NOS injection will make the bike a little more vulnerable to be unstable spinning the tire when launching and/or shifting IMHO... Anyways, unless you are a hell of a drag racer, I think that under no circumstances you should try to get off the line (launch) or spray in first gear with the 60HP shot (with whatever pulley you have, but worse if you have the 26T) without a NOS controller (which makes the NOS injection gradual), since you'll have a VERY unstable bike and you can seriously hurt yourself.....


B)Another thing (like I stated before in another thread) keep in mind you have to dyno-tune your bike after all the upgrades to make it run properly and that will cost you $$$ (if you have the SERT and your dealer is knowledgeble with it, you are in good hands), moreover since you will have to tune your bike on gas only (no NOS) ***AND*** with the NOS spraying to get the most out of it and avoid the risk of runing lean and damaging the motor.

C) As far as I've been told, the two 30HP nozzles add up approximately 60HP at the CRANK, which would be around 30-40HP at the wheel, probably getting you around the range of 150HP, where most gurus here agree the stock injectors will be maxed out. The best way (again, as far as I know) to confirm if you will need the Destroyer injectors or not, is monitoring the air-fuel (AFR) ratio while at the dyno, and if the guy tuning your bike decides you are running dangerously rich while spraying NOS, then you'll definitely need it. Worst case scenario can be that the Destroyer injectors would be a pain in the crack to tune when NOT spraying, in the HP range where you will probably be riding your bike 95% of the time unless it's a drag-race only bike... That's why most people run the 40HP NOS shot instead of the 60HP shot, so they can keep the stock injectors and the tuning/rideability on the street is kept "under control".

C Recommendation: If I where you, I would buy the Injectors with the possibility of returning them, BUT don't install them until you are tuning your bike at the dyno and your tuner decides if they are really needed or not, that way, if they are not actually installed, you can return it and get that money back, which will probably cover 3/4 parts of the dyno charges....

Well, sorry, I think that's enough, Good night, Buenas noches, Buona notte, Bon soir, Gutte Nacth... ZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.............
 

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Discussion Starter #19
OK first off to BAD VR yes they are NOS lines that come off the controller sorry for the confusion.

Fabster: Thanks for all the info. The bike will mainly be a street bike with the occasional trip to the strip. I have the 25 hp nozzles as well as the 30 hp nozzles. From what I know talking with the Boss Noss guys they said I should be getting close to 90% at the rear wheel. So with the 60hp shot I should be seeing at least 50 but closer to 54. I do take a long trip a minimum of once a month so I think I will stay with the stock pulley for now. Finally, I am aware that I will have to tune the bike several times to get it where I want, luckily for me like I've stated before my dealer and I have a good relationship and they have tuned my bike for me for free every time we've changed something out. They said they enjoy running the nitrous on the tuner so it's fun for them, lol. I am still a little lost on whether or not I want to get the destroyer throttle bodies or send them off to Fitzgerald Motorsports, I wish I knew more about this stuff. What would the experts recommend as the "best" set up on this route? Thanks.
 

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Elephant Motors Rock
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Fitzgerald's TBs with the new shaft are awesome pieces, and as Frank stated - no messing with the idle.
 
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