To everyone: Ok, first of all sorry, I feel like I'm hijacking here, I have too much free time today and looking for info have stumbled with vrsc2007dx's other posts since they are somehow related. If I'm bothering too much just let me know and I will pull back, OK?
To vrsc2007dx: Maybe you know all this, maybe you don't, I don't know as much as most of the people here, but I've been researching on the same topics and if I can help you clear some doubts, we both benefit from the info...
A) Just for reference for Frank (Bad V-R) and SickRick, here is one of vrsc2007dx's former thread,
http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148736
I replied you in another thread about the 26T pulley but will paste it here in case I'm misleading you in any way and more experienced members can rectify the info:
Originally Posted by vrsc2007dx
I originally posted a stage 1 question and that was answered, think I already have all of that done. Here is my current setup:
2007 VRSCDX
Topless w/ K&N air filter
Force Street fighter pipes
Screaming Eagle Race Tuner
Boss-Noss 2-30hp nozzles = 60HP w/ BN Tuner
Slipper Clutch
Arnott Air Ride
260 Rear Tire
I would like to do the 26t Pulley but I've been told that wasn't the greatest idea with the BN system. Is the 26t pulley safe with this set up once the stage 2 is done?
My question now is what do I need for the stage 2 kit? What cams are everyone using? These 30076-09? Also what 58mm throttle body is recommended and tested? Lastly should I go with the destroyer injectors?
Once all of this is done is it going to hurt to still be running a 60hp shot of nitrous? Thanks for all the info, bike is in the shop now I might want to get this done while it's still there so the info is much appreciated!![
FABSTER
I think you have most of these questions answered, as for the 26T pulley, it will give you a little punch at launching your bike and will make the shifts "shorter"since the engine will reach higer revs quicker with the smaller pulley. Are you in for drag racing? Go for the 26T... Long Rides? Don't do it.
As for the NOS, the combination of the 26T pulley and the 60 HP NOS injection will make the bike a little more vulnerable to be unstable spinning the tire when launching and/or shifting IMHO... Anyways, unless you are a hell of a drag racer, I think that under no circumstances you should try to get off the line (launch) or spray in first gear with the 60HP shot (with whatever pulley you have, but worse if you have the 26T) without a NOS controller (which makes the NOS injection gradual), since you'll have a VERY unstable bike and you can seriously hurt yourself.....
B)Another thing (like I stated before in another thread) keep in mind you have to dyno-tune your bike after all the upgrades to make it run properly and that will cost you $$$ (if you have the SERT and your dealer is knowledgeble with it, you are in good hands), moreover since you will have to tune your bike on gas only (no NOS) ***AND*** with the NOS spraying to get the most out of it and avoid the risk of runing lean and damaging the motor.
C) As far as I've been told, the two 30HP nozzles add up approximately 60HP at the CRANK, which would be around 30-40HP at the wheel, probably getting you around the range of 150HP, where most gurus here agree the stock injectors will be maxed out. The best way (again, as far as I know) to confirm if you will need the Destroyer injectors or not, is monitoring the air-fuel (AFR) ratio while at the dyno, and if the guy tuning your bike decides you are running dangerously rich while spraying NOS, then you'll definitely need it. Worst case scenario can be that the Destroyer injectors would be a pain in the crack to tune when NOT spraying, in the HP range where you will probably be riding your bike 95% of the time unless it's a drag-race only bike... That's why most people run the 40HP NOS shot instead of the 60HP shot, so they can keep the stock injectors and the tuning/rideability on the street is kept "under control".
C Recommendation: If I where you, I would buy the Injectors with the possibility of returning them, BUT don't install them until you are tuning your bike at the dyno and your tuner decides if they are really needed or not, that way, if they are not actually installed, you can return it and get that money back, which will probably cover 3/4 parts of the dyno charges....
Well, sorry, I think that's enough, Good night, Buenas noches, Buona notte, Bon soir, Gutte Nacth... ZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.............