I replaced my dead voltage regulator with one from RMSTATOR. It has worked OK so far, and saved me $50 compared to the stealer. It takes a couple of days to get it, but I now have more time than money, so that is OK. There was one significant hang up, the first one they sent me didn't fit. They were very helpful in getting the problem rectified (regulator joke.) They got some dimensions from me, and checked their inventory for proper dimensions and sent another one that was correct.
After market voltage regulator
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Can you give us year of your bike and part number of the regulator that fit please.I replaced my dead voltage regulator with one from RMSTATOR. It has worked OK so far, and saved me $50 compared to the stealer. It takes a couple of days to get it, but I now have more time than money, so that is OK. There was one significant hang up, the first one they sent me didn't fit. They were very helpful in getting the problem rectified (regulator joke.) They got some dimensions from me, and checked their inventory for proper dimensions and sent another one that was correct.
Ron
:them: yes, the part # please.
voltage regulator p/n for v-rod
Ron/H20
Part Number RM30326 fit my 2012VRSCDX. I noticed "1250 V-Rod 2008-2016" printed on one of their replies to me.
Check out their web site, they make electrical for a lot of RV equipment. Original fitment problem was the spacing between the connectors as they protrude from the epoxy that they are potted in. My radiator cover (that the conns must pass through) has holes that are 1.6" center to center. The stock Harley module is 1.5" (missed by .1") The bad module that I got was 1.3" (missed by .3") They told me that they checked their entire inventory to clear that up, and sent one to me that fits. Another way to look at it is that there has to be at least 0.565" between the connectors (on my bike.) One other thing, the RMSTSTOR module could be superior to the Harley one, higher current rated components. I didn't ask.
Jim
Ron/H20
Part Number RM30326 fit my 2012VRSCDX. I noticed "1250 V-Rod 2008-2016" printed on one of their replies to me.
Check out their web site, they make electrical for a lot of RV equipment. Original fitment problem was the spacing between the connectors as they protrude from the epoxy that they are potted in. My radiator cover (that the conns must pass through) has holes that are 1.6" center to center. The stock Harley module is 1.5" (missed by .1") The bad module that I got was 1.3" (missed by .3") They told me that they checked their entire inventory to clear that up, and sent one to me that fits. Another way to look at it is that there has to be at least 0.565" between the connectors (on my bike.) One other thing, the RMSTSTOR module could be superior to the Harley one, higher current rated components. I didn't ask.
Jim
Thanks. As for the clips in the rad cover, I've been tempted to saw them off more then once or at least modify them for better wire fit. Next time for sure.Ron/H20
Part Number RM30326 fit my 2012VRSCDX. I noticed "1250 V-Rod 2008-2016" printed on one of their replies to me.
Check out their web site, they make electrical for a lot of RV equipment. Original fitment problem was the spacing between the connectors as they protrude from the epoxy that they are potted in. My radiator cover (that the conns must pass through) has holes that are 1.6" center to center. The stock Harley module is 1.5" (missed by .1") The bad module that I got was 1.3" (missed by .3") They told me that they checked their entire inventory to clear that up, and sent one to me that fits. Another way to look at it is that there has to be at least 0.565" between the connectors (on my bike.) One other thing, the RMSTSTOR module could be superior to the Harley one, higher current rated components. I didn't ask.
Jim
Ron
Ron
Also, I thank you. Dave
I installed this same regulator into my 2014 NRS a couple of weeks back, an RMStator 1250 MOSFET regulator. Dead easy swap and seems to be working nicely.
I decided to go the MOSFET route since they're way more efficient than the shoddy diode based ones that hd uses which I've now burned through two of them and have now had to replace my battery thanks to the damage that the last stock unit did.
I decided to go the MOSFET route since they're way more efficient than the shoddy diode based ones that hd uses which I've now burned through two of them and have now had to replace my battery thanks to the damage that the last stock unit did.
I have had battery issues for a while. This year I determined that it was the regulator. I bought one from RM Stator and after 2 months had a very bad problem. It started putting out high voltage to the battery and completely burned up the battery. I finished a 2 hour ride and had a smell coming from the bike. When I started the bike to get it into the back yard, I had no power. I then pulled the breather cover off to find the battery burning up. I sent the regulator back to RM Stator. They sent me a new one and said that the old one was bad. Between the phone calls, shipping, and verification I lost about a month of riding time. Now I have had the new one on for a month and today an initial symptom popped up. The speedometer is fluctuating at higher RPM's (65-70 mph). Anybody go through issues with RM Stator or burning up regulators. I'm at a lost on what else could be causing the problems.
Any chance you have some poor grounds?I have had battery issues for a while. This year I determined that it was the regulator. I bought one from RM Stator and after 2 months had a very bad problem. It started putting out high voltage to the battery and completely burned up the battery. I finished a 2 hour ride and had a smell coming from the bike. When I started the bike to get it into the back yard, I had no power. I then pulled the breather cover off to find the battery burning up. I sent the regulator back to RM Stator. They sent me a new one and said that the old one was bad. Between the phone calls, shipping, and verification I lost about a month of riding time. Now I have had the new one on for a month and today an initial symptom popped up. The speedometer is fluctuating at higher RPM's (65-70 mph). Anybody go through issues with RM Stator or burning up regulators. I'm at a lost on what else could be causing the problems.
Ron
Sorry to hear you got a bad regulator from RM Stator. Maybe staying with stock is less risky? I imagined that I had damaged my stock regulator with a really bad battery. The battery acted like a semi-short circuit, and worked the hell out of the regulator. I replaced the battery and all was well for a short while, but then charging function stopped. That is when I replaced the regulator. Maybe a reg. can kill a battery and a battery can kill a reg.
Ron's idea to check grounds is good. Also, monitor your 12 volt circuit (is it steady or erratic when 65-70mph? I had a bad 12 connection on a sportster that opened when it "warmed up" under the seat. I connected lights to various points along the circuit and was able to tell where to look by observing which light was on and which wasn't. Also try cleaning the cable connector to the instrument cluster. I just bought "Deoxit D5" electrical cleaner for my 1973 turntable- bet it would be a good choice for motorcycle conns. Last thought is divide and conquer!
Ron's idea to check grounds is good. Also, monitor your 12 volt circuit (is it steady or erratic when 65-70mph? I had a bad 12 connection on a sportster that opened when it "warmed up" under the seat. I connected lights to various points along the circuit and was able to tell where to look by observing which light was on and which wasn't. Also try cleaning the cable connector to the instrument cluster. I just bought "Deoxit D5" electrical cleaner for my 1973 turntable- bet it would be a good choice for motorcycle conns. Last thought is divide and conquer!
Currently, I have pulled the radiator and breather assembly off and went through all of the wires. I could not find a bad ground.
Stator output: ~25VAC - 80VAC (going to re-verify)
Regulator output under load: 16VDC
Resistance to ground (stator) - 0.4ohms
I did call RM Stator. They sent me a checklist to go through. I'm going to do some more tests based on what they sent and go from there. I will everyone know what I find.
Stator output: ~25VAC - 80VAC (going to re-verify)
Regulator output under load: 16VDC
Resistance to ground (stator) - 0.4ohms
I did call RM Stator. They sent me a checklist to go through. I'm going to do some more tests based on what they sent and go from there. I will everyone know what I find.
If meter is 0'd, there should be no resistance to ground. 16 is also high and it might throw an over voltage code.Currently, I have pulled the radiator and breather assembly off and went through all of the wires. I could not find a bad ground.
Stator output: ~25VAC - 80VAC (going to re-verify)
Regulator output under load: 16VDC
Resistance to ground (stator) - 0.4ohms
I did call RM Stator. They sent me a checklist to go through. I'm going to do some more tests based on what they sent and go from there. I will everyone know what I find.
Ron
:them:If meter is 0'd, there should be no resistance to ground. 16 is also high and it might throw an over voltage code.
Ron
Maybe I should word this a little different. I often check lead resistance and then verify resistance. 0.4 is approximately 0 ohms of resistance when lead resistance is taken into account.
Agree. Didn't mention you factored in the meter error. All good then.Maybe I should word this a little different. I often check lead resistance and then verify resistance. 0.4 is approximately 0 ohms of resistance when lead resistance is taken into account.
Ron
From the manual
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
The meter should show open/infi, if it shows 0, then it is shorted to ground
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
The meter should show open/infi, if it shows 0, then it is shorted to ground
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