[Red-Rod]

The fuel gauge stopped working after making some mods on the bike. The gauge does not go through the sweep when you turn on the accessories. Checked the wiring and from the schematic it appears it is a straight connection to the gauge. It appears it is the gauge itself. The gauge goes negative when the switch is turned on.

Does anyone have a schematic of the gauge pod itself that shows how it is wired to the board. I want to trouble shoot it based on other functions using the same power or ground.

 

[gunner2]

go back through the mods that you did. the answer lies there

 

[Red-Rod]

Does anyone have a schematic of the guage pod.

 

[DrHeathenScum]

no schematic, but even a cluster sitting on the work bench will sweep all the needles... it's part of the self test. No needle sweep would mean dead fuel gauge inside cluster. Probably have to replace the whole cluster, or just use the odometer.

unless, of course, you had the cluster apart and put the needle back in wrong.

 

[Red-Rod]

no schematic, but even a cluster sitting on the work bench will sweep all the needles... it's part of the self test. No needle sweep would mean dead fuel gauge inside cluster. Probably have to replace the whole cluster, or just use the odometer.

unless, of course, you had the cluster apart and put the needle back in wrong.

I see a B model cluster on flee bay for $20.00 bucks. Are the internals the same as the A?

 

[DrHeathenScum]

It depends on the year... the clusters changed inside in '04 and I think again in '06... the whole cluster should swap right in either way. I know the wiring on the connector is the same for all the years, and dimensionally, they seem the same.

Please, if I am wrong on this, someone correct me.


Just out of curiosity, I would open up the cluster, pull the fuel gauge needle, power up the cluster to zero out the needles, and then try putting it back on... I suppose it is possible that the gauge motor went out of sync... it's a long shot, but worth a try. Just don't push the needle down all the way until you know it is in the right spot... may take a few tries to get it "dead balls on"

 

[Red-Rod]

There was an interesting fix on the gauge problem. I went out this morning with the intention of removing the cluster. I started off by opening up the clam shell and checking out all of the connections again. I switched it accessories to see if the fuel gauge would sweep and it did?

Yesterday it wouldn’t and today it did? New symptoms to trouble shoot. I checked the codes and sure enough there was one there. Came in and looked it up “Current Fuel sender open/high 2.11 DTCB1004/B1005”. So I took the computer down to the bike and hooked it up to the Twin Scan. Read the error code and cleared it. Turned the key and start stop of. Turned it back on and no code? Started the bike up and let it run. Bingo got the code again.

I had checked the wire several times since it is a direct connection to the fuel pump. I had took both ends lose and checked for continuity. The wire was connected on both ends. So I did the same thing again. No continuity. I tugged on the wires at the sender unit and then on the connector for the cluster. Then I pulled on the wire coming out of the wiring harness. It came free and was cut about six inches down. I did a visual measurement and it was broken right above the light. I pulled off the light and Bingo! I had pinched the fuel gauge wire when reinstalling the light.

The symptoms were the gauge pegging below empty when the key was turned on. And the gauge would not sweep in the accessory mode. That makes sense to me now because the circuit is a variable resistor. With the wire pinched it was a direct short to ground. The wire was still connected in the beginning so their was continuity. I was lucky I finally pulled it loose.

Note to self “next time disconnect the jacks on both ends and check for continuity on wire and to ground”.

 

[RustyG]

Congrats on finding the problem. Beats the hell out of buying a new cluster only to find out it was not your problem. Been there a couple of times myself thinking all sorts of problems that turned out to be nothing but a loose connector or similar problem.

 

[Boost]

did you do anything at the battery
that could have done it a bad ground will do it it sometimes has to be cycled to work after battery discontection i think