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Discussion Starter #1
Good evening everyone,

Im hopping ,you guys can help with an issue I'm having with my 2011VRod muscle abs brakes...

Lately my back brake,feels like I'm pressing against a brick wall, but this only happens when i start riding and go over 20 k... as soon as i touch the back brake , its like in pressing against a wall ,activating the abs , but it's not stopping , until i press the front brake and slow down.... once I'm under 20 k , the back brake works normal??? This started to annoy me, and right away i thought my HCU was gone, but then i thought if that was the case, the back brake would not disengage, even if i was stopped... i decided to take the 30 amp fuse out, and the brakes works normal ( without ABS ) and been riding like this for 6 month's now with no issues, but in the back of my mind, I'm always thinking if I'm making things worst for not fixing the problem...


The only change I've done recently, before this problem started was change the bearings on the back tire ( had a bad bearing) ... when i changed the bearings i noticed it had non abs bearings, so i got abs bearings and changed them.... other than that , no other changes.

When i check the codes i got c1095 and c1216....i tried to reset but they are still there.... i know the codes mean this below

C1095, front brake switch open: This means the path to ground for the front brake switch was broken.

C1216, rear brake switch open: This means the path to ground for the rear brake switch was broken.


Im running LeD on my motorcycle.... brake light work, when i press the brakes, brake switch ...everything works as it should , so I'm assuming its got nothing to do with my tail light or brake switch...i also checked the diode and was ok, but since i had one extra i changed anyways, but the problem is there...i think only thing left to check is the ECU....


Questions : can i check the ECU without a breakout box? If so , how do i go about doing it?



I know Harley Abs are prone to fail/ not work , and once its stuck , you need a new HCU...but im my mine still works at “ really low speed” so i know its not stuck yet or it wouldn't work period, plus i think , it would also not work ,when i took the 30 amp fuse out IF the HCU was already stuck...
I know some people are bypassing the abs brakes and leaving the ECU unplugged, but in my case all i have to do, is take the 30amp fuse out , am i damaging anything?

I See a lot of videos on YouTube People bypassing the system, and i can't understand why, when all i had to do was take the 30 amp fuse out


Am i missing anything? Is there anything else i should check?

I've done the brake fluid change every couple of years and im always checking for moisture in the brake fluid and all checks out ok....



Any help, advise you guys can give will be greatly appreciated.

regards
Tony D





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Those DTCs (C1095 & C1216) mean the ABS ECU hasn't detected the proper voltage at terminals 13 and 3 while decelerating. This can be from faulty brake switch , tail light, shorts and a long shot the abs wheel bearing or sensor. I think the key here is proper voltage and that would need to be checked . E manual should have the info. I know, it's never easy , is it?
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Those DTCs (C1095 & C1216) mean the ABS ECU hasn't detected the proper voltage at terminals 13 and 3 while decelerating. This can be from faulty brake switch , tail light, shorts and a long shot the abs wheel bearing or sensor. I think the key here is proper voltage and that would need to be checked . E manual should have the info. I know, it's never easy , is it?

Ron
Rbabos, thanks for your reply...i was away on business so only had time to check the following last night...

I've checked, brake switches, tail lights, diode and all check out ok voltage wise... i still need to check the bearings and also going to check the sensor just to make sure its not that for sure ... but i think is the ECU from the readings i got... when i check the voltage at the ECU with everything PLUGGED in at 13 and 3 i get...
If in fact is the ECU does it hurt anything else ,if i leave the 30 amp fuse out, so it won't activate the abs?

Pink stripe to ground w/o brake applied: 7.89v

Pink stripe to ground w/ brake applied: 12.5v

Brown stipe to ground w/o brake applied: 7.89v

Brown stripe to ground w/ brake applied: 12.5v


When i check the voltage ECU unplugged at 13 and 3

Pink stripe to ground w/o brake applied: 0.0v

Pink stripe to ground w/ brake applied: 12.5v

Brown stipe to ground w/o brake applied: 0.0v

Brown stripe to ground w/ brake applied:
12.5v



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I'm not good enough to diagnose it but both codes are from the same common fault. No mention of any possible ECM problems. Not sure where the power is coming from if 13 and 3 are unplugged as it looks like the ECM is the power source. Need for the electron wizard to chime in for this one.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not good enough to diagnose it but both codes are from the same common fault. No mention of any possible ECM problems. Not sure where the power is coming from if 13 and 3 are unplugged as it looks like the ECM is the power source. Need for the electron wizard to chime in for this one.
Ron
Ron are we talking about the same thing?
The ECU= electrical control unit attached to the HCU =hydraulic control unit for the abs brakes ....not the ECM = electronic control module for the engine under the seat....

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Ron are we talking about the same thing?
The ECU= electrical control unit attached to the HCU =hydraulic control unit for the abs brakes ....not the ECM = electronic control module for the engine under the seat....

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This...


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Ron are we talking about the same thing?
The ECU= electrical control unit attached to the HCU =hydraulic control unit for the abs brakes ....not the ECM = electronic control module for the engine under the seat....

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My mistake. ECU not ECM. I'm beginning to wonder if the led load or lack of is causing the issues. Can you pop in the old bulbs for the brake light and test this? ECU might be seeing the wrong voltage. Just a hunch.
Ron
 

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My mistake. ECU not ECM. I'm beginning to wonder if the led load or lack of is causing the issues. Can you pop in the old bulbs for the brake light and test this? ECU might be seeing the wrong voltage. Just a hunch.
Ron
Hi Ron,
I don't have the old bulbs ....i did however unplugged all LED and performed the same tests on the ECU and results were the same at the ECU..... I'm going to have to throw in the towel and take my rod one of these days, for the first time for a mechanic to look at it....
Thanks for taking the time to answer my post...

Tony D

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Hi Ron,
I don't have the old bulbs ....i did however unplugged all LED and performed the same tests on the ECU and results were the same at the ECU..... I'm going to have to throw in the towel and take my rod one of these days, for the first time for a mechanic to look at it....
Thanks for taking the time to answer my post...

Tony D

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Reason I mentioned the led was I searched led and ABS issues. Had a lot more hits on it then I figured I would. For the HD it most likely has to do with voltages during the time the ABS ECU does it's system checks. Load or ground sensing issue. This is around the 15 mph, when it first starts rolling. Sensitive little bitch it is. If you do find it , please post the results as it's an odd one to have the unit work and then not work based on speeds. Codes, I can understand but the speed relationship is weird.
Ron
 

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Reason I mentioned the led was I searched led and ABS issues. Had a lot more hits on it then I figured I would. For the HD it most likely has to do with voltages during the time the ABS ECU does it's system checks. This is around the 15 mph, when it first starts rolling. Sensitive little bitch it is. If you do find it , please post the results as it's an odd one to have the unit work and then not work based on speeds. Codes, I can understand but the speed relationship is weird.

Ron
Back to the drawing board.... that's exactly what's happening to me.... if i go over 15 mph and touch the back break it activates the abs, so i have to also press the front break, so that both tires match the speed and in order to deactivate the back abs and work normal.... for now I've got the 30amp fuse out, breaks are working normal ( no abs) abs light stays on obviously

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Ok, problem solved with codes c1095 and c1216, and finally was able to clear the codes.... I'm running LED , so i connected a resistor on my brake lights, problem solved for those 2 codes...

Since i had everything apart, was dealing with my brakes, and my friend had his Harley tool with him, i decided to change , and flush the brake fluid...ECU and HCU worked perfect, and cleared all the codes....

Brakes worked fine ,with no codes while i had the motorcycle on the stand...
but than i went for a ride and now ,I'm getting code C1027... Wheel speed signal intermittent (Rear) and I'm still having the same issues with my abs activating as soon as i start riding ...

Maybe a bad rear abs sensor? What else should i check?

At least for now, i don't think Its the ECU and that's good news..... back to the drawing board tomorrow again



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Ok, problem solved with codes c1095 and c1216, and finally was able to clear the codes.... I'm running LED , so i connected a resistor on my brake lights, problem solved for those 2 codes...

Since i had everything apart, was dealing with my brakes, and my friend had his Harley tool with him, i decided to change , and flush the brake fluid...ECU and HCU worked perfect, and cleared all the codes....

Brakes worked fine ,with no codes while i had the motorcycle on the stand...
but than i went for a ride and now ,I'm getting code C1027... Wheel speed signal intermittent (Rear) and I'm still having the same issues with my abs activating as soon as i start riding ...

Maybe a bad rear abs sensor? What else should i check?

At least for now, i don't think Its the ECU and that's good news..... back to the drawing board tomorrow again



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Glad the resister fixed the led issue. Def rear bearing or sensor for the final code. I see you mentioned the bearing was swapped. Was it OEM or aftermarket as some of them have caused issues, just like what you have. Seems for some reason it's not reading the wheel speed so the only two items is the bearing encoder and sensor as the culprits. I do need to ask and you can tell me to fk off but, is the bearing installed the correct side out? It has happened many times. You can do a resistance check by unplugging both and compare resistance between them with a multimeter and you can hook up the multimeter to AC volts and see if it's generating a signal when you spin the wheel.
Ron
 

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Glad the resister fixed the led issue. Def rear bearing or sensor for the final code. I see you mentioned the bearing was swapped. Was it OEM or aftermarket as some of them have caused issues, just like what you have. Seems for some reason it's not reading the wheel speed so the only two items is the bearing encoder and sensor as the culprits. I do need to ask and you can tell me to fk off but, is the bearing installed the correct side out? It has happened many times.

Ron
Hi Ron,

First, thanks for the reply.... as for the bearing its a OEM HD 9252 A....i actually bought 4 like the picture attached...
As for the way it was mounted, that actually crossed my mind, because i was not the one , that put the bearing in, my friend did...but looking at it ( because of the colour difference) it looks like it wad mounted the correct way, with the " red" on the inside , and grey outside...or score/grove encoder inside....
When i spinned the tire today, on the stand by hand, everything looked ok, but i think I'll take the tire out tomorrow, just to double check the bearing....

Again Thanks for the reply, and i would never tell anyone to F OFF, when someone is trying to help... sometimes the simple things is what we miss, so there is no stupid questions or answers...


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Glad the resister fixed the led issue. Def rear bearing or sensor for the final code. I see you mentioned the bearing was swapped. Was it OEM or aftermarket as some of them have caused issues, just like what you have. Seems for some reason it's not reading the wheel speed so the only two items is the bearing encoder and sensor as the culprits. I do need to ask and you can tell me to fk off but, is the bearing installed the correct side out? It has happened many times. You can do a resistance check by unplugging both and compare resistance between them with a multimeter and you can hook up the multimeter to AC volts and see if it's generating a signal when you spin the wheel.
Ron
Hi Ron ,

When You say unplug both.... do you mean , front and back sensors? And compare the resistor between both?

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*Resistance

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Yes both since I don't know what the resistance should be. If both the same, the sensor is fine so do the wheel spin test on the rear and see if it puts out AC volts. Most auto units do so I suspect it will also. Again you can check against the front good one as a comparison for any volt output. I would not pull the bearing unless the multimeter shows a problem there.
Ron
 

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Hey also when my bike was fairly new I had the abs light that would come on when I rode it over a certain speed. Harley had to replace a section of wire to the rear wheel sensor. It ran along the right side lower part of the frame. So u might want to make resistance checks from front to rear to sensor checking entire wire. After u made resistance measurements at abs sensor connector. If sensor measures ok. Reconnect it and find a point where u can check wire from front to rear.
 

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Hey also when my bike was fairly new I had the abs light that would come on when I rode it over a certain speed. Harley had to replace a section of wire to the rear wheel sensor. It ran along the right side lower part of the frame. So u might want to make resistance checks from front to rear to sensor checking entire wire. After u made resistance measurements at abs sensor connector. If sensor measures ok. Reconnect it and find a point where u can check wire from front to rear.
Good point. Where it tracks the right frame isn't a wire friendly spot with all the exhaust heat.
Ron
 
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