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Discussion Starter #81
I can sent a brace from Miami in mid April, if someone would like to have it. The last one girdle includes 2x very long ARP 8mm chromoly studs, nuts and washers. (4x 10mm main studs you have to buy from ARP)
 

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This is the best engineered unit available. Those studs are overstock NASA grade from ARP, no more available. If you even might consider a brace, grab this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #84

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Discussion Starter #85
Here is a picture of the items I can sent out from Miami in mid April.
$300 + shipping by PayPal.

Anybody have an intrest?

 

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I realize I am reviving an old thread here, but I bought one of Karzza's engine braces back in 2014 along with the ARP "kit". I am finally getting around to installing it. Can anyone help with torque specs, etc.?
 

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Looks a lot like the Trask brace I bought, it also uses ARP studs but only ties in the 4 main bolts not the 2 extra smaller bolts as on Karzza's brace. He still pops in here from time to time so you might want to check his member info here on the site and private message him he's a great V Rod guy and very helpful I'm sure he'd help you out -
 

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not really. I think Karzza has been known to give out the file but then you need a proficient machinist to build it. Look at the Fitzgerald motorsport brace or trask brace.
the Fitzgerald is billet T6061 aluminum while the Trask is steel though I'm unsure of the alloy.
 

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I bought the Trask steel one - it had to be clearanced on one inside corner because it hit the case - not much grinding with a dremel but it wouldn't sit flat without - it also it weighs 2 pounds stiff as possible but I'm thinking on a non boosted N/A engine the Fitz aluminum brace would be a better choice & it's gotta be a pound lighter as well - Has anyone thought about partially blocking the crank oil drain window with these braces ? I don't think that's ideal but maybe not a real problem ?
 

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Another consideration is coefficient of expansion - you'd think that aluminum would be better suited to an aluminum case - the steel might not expand a much as aluminum would ( which might hold the case together even better than aluminum ) but it could also cause movement under the ARP fasteners - anyone got any experience or opinions on these two issues ?
 

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Another consideration is coefficient of expansion - you'd think that aluminum would be better suited to an aluminum case - the steel might not expand a much as aluminum would ( which might hold the case together even better than aluminum ) but it could also cause movement under the ARP fasteners - anyone got any experience or opinions on these two issues ?
Based on the design and the goal intended, I'm not sure the damn things even do much. More clamping pressure with larger studs at the mains would do the same. The way I see it is all you are doing is stiffening up the lower section and I might add all parts would need just about 0 clearance for that. The lower and upper main bores are two separate items. Clamping pressure at the interface makes more sense to better unitize it.
Ron
 

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I think the braces try to control case twist, case walking & dampen vibration by adding mass to the structure - how much it helps is anyone's guess but the boosted guys swear by them so maybe best for those applications. Yea, I agree 0 clearance would be ideal, then coefficient of expansion and temperature of the brace vs. case would dictate if steel is better than aluminum - any gaps between the ARP studs and the brace ( just checked mine gap is large enough for studs to move side to side in brace holes a little ) will allow movement and/or compensate for expansion but you would still have a stiffer in twisting tie - in between the 4 main crank case points - yes clamping pressure at the interface is best, probably why the torque on the stud nuts is I believe from memory higher that stock case bolts - a step in the right direction but with gaps between studs and brace not ideal.
 

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I think the braces try to control case twist, case walking & dampen vibration by adding mass to the structure - how much it helps is anyone's guess but the boosted guys swear by them so maybe best for those applications. Yea, I agree 0 clearance would be ideal, then coefficient of expansion and temperature of the brace vs. case would dictate if steel is better than aluminum - any gaps between the ARP studs and the brace ( just checked mine gap is large enough for studs to move side to side in brace holes a little ) will allow movement and/or compensate for expansion but you would still have a stiffer in twisting tie - in between the 4 main crank case points - yes clamping pressure at the interface is best, probably why the torque on the stud nuts is I believe from memory higher that stock case bolts - a step in the right direction but with gaps between studs and brace not ideal.
Yes those points are all true. K&M brace is relatively thick and would tie bolts together. Not just main studs but two M8 studs in the rear making bolt web. Holes are as tight as possible and relatively deep compared bolt diameter so they will resist some misalignments caused by vibrations. Also key point is to use as long studs as possible for having all the threads from upper half in use. This way main bolts can be torqued to right specs and (+11000Lbs) preload per main bolt can be achieved. With right amount of preload studs are one kind of springs holding cases together in highly dynamic stresses and remain that tension all the time. If there is no proper preload in the bolts case will walk for sure.

In the picture it cannot be seen but there is three bigger threads in front sidewall. There were plans to make additional bracket for those two single allen key M8 bolts too. But it has not implemented so far.

This time I replaced ARP washers with Nordlock lock washers. All other case bolts are replaced to 10.9 or 12.9 class bolts as well.

Almost this setup was used in my previous build and it last 3700 miles without any problems. Main bearings were all ok and oil pressure in the idle tolerable. Max power was 206hp with that engine and my riding style ain't the smoothest.

20200310_204335.jpg
 

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3700 or 37,000 miles ? 206 Hp needs the brace - damn stout for that engine to survive that's 103 Hp on each cylinder trying to tear itself off the case and away from the other cylinder basically wants to rip the case into pieces, which I've seen photos of here before - unbridled destruction - you wanna build big power and be reliable ? You better have a plan especially when it's just TWO cylinders, not three or four or six cylinders - think about it the forces go up in the case and crank with the reduction of cylinders - three or four or six cylinders spreads the combustion forces and torque twists across a larger case with more bearings, rods, etc. Try building a reliable 206 Hp single cylinder engine that doesn't vibrate as compared to a six cylinder 206 Hp engine that runs like a sewing machine then we'll talk. Just another reason the V Rod Revo is a special unique engine & motorcycle, especially when modified above 125 Hp per liter.
 

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I drove two and half riding seasons and 3700 miles with 1130cc turbo. Now it is 248rwhp/271crank (with 17,5psi boost) 1357cc stroker and have 1500miles on it within this season. Initial dial in has been done and it is holding together without major problems. Need for bigger turbo but more of that in different topic.

Yes inline four would be much wiser platform to produce massive powers but it has to be V2 Harley even there is no sense. It is the feeling drive Harley instead of plastic bullets.
 

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WOW those are impressive Hp numbers ! Yea, you need a larger Turbo I can tell Mukle :oops: that bikes WAY under powered ! :LOL: ! Yes, I Love the H-D V Rod and the V twin Revo engine, they have real soul as a pair, I just don't like look of the the Turbo packaging hanging off the side- the stealth S/C kits were damn nice, not the Turbo power I do understand that but a nice boost while retaining close to the original look - best packaged turbo I ever saw was a big Kawasaki rice burner four cylinder Turbo and all plumbing fwd of engine low behind plastic fairing behind front wheel- one tube to airbox up the side - we aren't so lucky with V Twin exhaust layout and no space up front - it is what it is & whatever a guy values - crazy big power or original looks can't have both on V Rod
 
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