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HOLD ON
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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone sorted out the 4000rpm splutter on the 1130 turbos with autotune tmax? Thanx.:banghead:
 

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(.)(.)Modster(.)(.)
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7,066 Posts
A lot of us get this without turbos also. Last I heard from James he recommended:

"Based on the inconsistencies I'm seeing in the map, I am suspecting electrical or mechanical issues. Since the ThunderMax is making adjustments while you ride, it is relying on perfect data coming from the motorcycle. Possible causes of your issues could be worn or bad sensors, broken or damaged wiring, corrosion, worn out pins, broken throttle shaft, the possibilities are endless. The first step would be to disconnect all of the sensors, clean all of the connections with alcohol and lubricate with dielectric grease."

Huge cop out, but I've been expecting this more and more. Kind of like Apple with their antenna problems, lol.
 

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HOLD ON
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Discussion Starter #3
thanx for the reply.Funny that alot of us have the same prob my mates is doing the same non turbo but if you plug factory computer back in it doesnt do it.
 

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Don't see how that email makes any sense seeing as many of us had this issue with brand new bikes.
 

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Land Pilot
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spinedoc said:
Huge cop out, but I've been expecting this more and more. Kind of like Apple with their antenna problems, lol.
Don't see how that email makes any sense seeing as many of us had this issue with brand new bikes.
:them:

Maybe Zippers is going to offer us some kind of bumper to put around the ThunderMax to ward off electrical problems... I thought I was holding mine the right way, but apparently not. :spank:
 

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same here i have the same problem mines at 3 grand really bad place for it as your generally cruising at this speed....
 

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Had the "stutter" bad between 3600-4200 RPM, got rid of it by seperately tuning the rear cylinder (rather then keeping it as a trim function), and advancing the timing alittle during our mapping.
 

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Fah q 2
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and please explain about separately tuning rear cylinder
 

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Rear cylinder is set as a "trim" function from the factory, and OEM ecm's. Reviewing the maps you generally see a relatively straight line. Many people getting a dyno-tune the tuner tunes the front cylinder only, and maybe adjusts the timing. Tuning the rear cylinder specifically , and advancing my timing on my build removed the lag that I was experiencing.
 
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