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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
I have a 09 VRSCF with Tab slip-ons and a topless K&N. I have tried 4 different maps for the PCV, (-11, -16, Johns split AFR SE variant and EOD's final) but none of them seem right. EOD's seem to make the most power but spit and sputter at cruising. The -11 which is what PC recommends makes alot less power and bog bad when going from 4500 cruise to WOT. -16 just doesn't do it for me...

Any suggestions?

Attached are the Maps in question if anyone else is looking for something that might work.
 

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I have the same set-up on my '10 Muscle. The 011 map seems to be working well after tweaking the off-throttle values. It may be hard to tell before I get it dynoed.
 

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Hey guys,
I have a 09 VRSCF with Tab slip-ons and a topless K&N. I have tried 4 different maps for the PCV, (-11, -16, Johns split AFR SE variant and EOD's final) but none of them seem right. EOD's seem to make the most power but spit and sputter at cruising. The -11 which is what PC recommends makes alot less power and bog bad when going from 4500 cruise to WOT. -16 just doesn't do it for me...

Any suggestions?

Attached are the Maps in question if anyone else is looking for something that might work.
Ok well I see my 1st two listed are ok so here is one that I am cuurently running. Also be aware that there are a bunch of new maps posted on the DynoJet site. A couple just for the Muscle. I went to run one today but only got a very short ride before I got wet, AGAIN, so I am currently withholding my opinion.

Here is the one I am running. Please realize my maps will be rich because our temps are most likely 20* cooler and I am running currently at about 100 to 600 feet above sea level.

For the spit sputter at cruise work on your settings at everything below 20% throttle and in the rpm range with issues. Go richer by point 5 and then work your way back towrds lean once you get it to settle out. What you will find as the weather goes for cooler(more then a 30* change seems to be about the break point) you are going to have to go back in and make another adjustment.

My '09 F did not like that -011 map at all. Black smoke on hard acel and didn't fix the 3 to 4k issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks EOD,
I wasnt sure if I can run yours because you run the Autotune and I don't. I really liked your map but only got like 25mpg and lots of raw fuel.

I'll give your current one a shot. I didn't think it would be this difficult, it is not like I made any major mods to the engine...

I am currently running John's and made a few Ignition adjustments and it seems pretty good.
I use a performance indicator app on my phone that tells 60' 330' 1/8 1000' and quarter times. I know it is not accurate but it gives me a baseline and something to compare to after I change maps. (and it's fun)
 

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Thanks EOD,
I wasnt sure if I can run yours because you run the Autotune and I don't. I really liked your map but only got like 25mpg and lots of raw fuel.

I'll give your current one a shot. I didn't think it would be this difficult, it is not like I made any major mods to the engine...

I am currently running John's and made a few Ignition adjustments and it seems pretty good.
I use a performance indicator app on my phone that tells 60' 330' 1/8 1000' and quarter times. I know it is not accurate but it gives me a baseline and something to compare to after I change maps. (and it's fun)
Yeah that SE one was based off some info I got about a Screamin Eagle tune. Right after I made that map I had it dyno tuned and they made very, very little change. Which the thing was rich. They said it was a good safe map. So the later maps I have posted addressed many of the issues that developed after then....I wish there was a way to delete the maps as we go especially after finding an issue.

I don't recommend or nor do I post a map that I have less then 100 miles of riding with. Especially something that I have modified in some way. I usually try to put 500 miles on those before I post. Now I have the LCD screen I am data logging my whole ride from start up to shut down. I learn something ever ride.

You will find that most maps are very rich under hard acceleration and I am working that to be better. I wish/need to have a dyno in my shop. Lean is power (but how lean can I go) but it's hard to keep making WOT runs on the street without getting caught.

I am currently trying to run the new maps I found posted on Dyno Jet but it's rained here again (and again and again)and I was not able to put a pounding on map -016 but what I have ridden it needs some tweaking just not 100% sure which way to go yet with the settings.

Yes you can run my Maps with out the Auto Tune.
 

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Thanks EOD,
I wasnt sure if I can run yours because you run the Autotune and I don't. I really liked your map but only got like 25mpg and lots of raw fuel.

I'll give your current one a shot. I didn't think it would be this difficult, it is not like I made any major mods to the engine...

I am currently running John's and made a few Ignition adjustments and it seems pretty good.
I use a performance indicator app on my phone that tells 60' 330' 1/8 1000' and quarter times. I know it is not accurate but it gives me a baseline and something to compare to after I change maps. (and it's fun)
Ok I am going to drag this one back to the top. SO how have things gone since Aug? What map did you finally settle with? Lets hear the input and help spread the knowledge.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey thanks for Checking up!!
I modified John's SE Tune, I richened up 1500 - 3000 and added a little ignition adavance 6000+.
I still have the occational "pop" when cruising at around 3700- 4000, with i guess about 15% throttle. Don't really know which way to go with it, rich or lean?. Kinda just got used to it for now.
 

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Hey thanks for Checking up!!
I modified John's SE Tune, I richened up 1500 - 3000 and added a little ignition adavance 6000+.
I still have the occational "pop" when cruising at around 3700- 4000, with i guess about 15% throttle. Don't really know which way to go with it, rich or lean?. Kinda just got used to it for now.
Hey thanks for getting back here.....I am not sure if we will ever "ALWAYS" have the pop or gurgle or whatever you want to call the 3 to 4 k problem 100% solved.

If you want to try and lessen the pop try richening it by about 5% to 10% of your current base map setting, at the 5% 10% and 15% throttle setting. I find that most of the cruise time on flat ground is spent at or just below 10% throttle riding solo at about 70 mph.

The other thing is hook up the computer and mark your throttle position percentage with some tape to get you a better idea of where you need to make your changes.

I am experminating with taking some advance OUT in that range and that also seems to help. On my LCD screen I have seen more then 52* of advance. So something else to consider.
 

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I recently put on tab slip-ons and a K&N air filter on my 2011 muscle. I have been reading a lot of threads here on different maps people are using and what kind of adjustments they are making. So far I have loaded the M15-006-011 map from Dynojet. I got the usual Popping on decel at 3-4k, and also quite a bit of popping around 5.5-6k on decel. I have been adding fuel in those ranges to try to counteract this, but my question is how would I know if I am adding too much fuel and what kind of damage could I cause if I am running too rich? Mind you I have only been adding 5-8% in any given field but I just want to have a better understanding of what I'm doing and what to expect. Also I don't know if this is related but I have also noticed some brown discoloration where my left muffler meets my slip-on. Not sure if this is from a leak, running too hot from being too lean, or just oil from my hand burning off from installing the pipes. Any ideas anyone has would be much appreciated.
 

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Run-N-Gun
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I'm getting that same discoloration on my left pipe as well. Taking my bike in for a dymo tune this afternoon. I'll pull the map on Friday when I get it back..
 

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I'm getting that same discoloration on my left pipe as well. Taking my bike in for a dymo tune this afternoon. I'll pull the map on Friday when I get it back..
Whilst you can play around a little with settings it is near on impossible to determine what AFR's you are getting at each RPM/throttle position. Rich is OK and apart from keeping fuel companies afloat and leaving behind clouds of black smoke, should not cause any real problems.
Lean on the other hand can be lethal!
A dyno tune with AFR's kept within safe limits at all settings is the best way to get a correct base map for your bike and the associated mods from standard.:D
 

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I'm getting that same discoloration on my left pipe as well. Taking my bike in for a dymo tune this afternoon. I'll pull the map on Friday when I get it back..
Just checking in to see what you found out about that discoloration on the left pipe. Also wanted to see how your dyno tune turned out. If the map they created works out well for you maybe you would consider sharing it with the rest of us.
 

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Sorry, I was busy shooting this weekend. I'll try to pull the map tonight. I'm still not sure about the discoloration, I didn't get to talk to the mechanic. He did tune it to 116hp/83tq and it feels real strong across the band.

Here's my plots. The second 'baseline' was just the untuned stage 1.

edit: added my map
 

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