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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! Ive been scrolling through the forums and have not found a thread pertaining to the issue I'm having with my v rod. I have a question that hopefully someone can answer for me. Recently I changed my handle bars from the stock bars to 18" ape hangers . I extended the wiring and also installed new grips with the turn signal lights built in on the ends. Upon completion of the wiring I checked my work and noticed that the switches work but the bar end turn signal lights don't. I checked voltage going into the turn signal module and was at 12v. I Checked voltage coming out of the module and it was 13-15v which was odd to me. Could the module be internally shorting to pwr? Also I should note that the new turn signal lights are not L.E.D. and the stocks turn signal lights were. Would this cause a issue as well? I would greatly appreciate it if someone could help me out on this issue.
 

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Hello! Ive been scrolling through the forums and have not found a thread pertaining to the issue I'm having with my v rod. I have a question that hopefully someone can answer for me. Recently I changed my handle bars from the stock bars to 18" ape hangers . I extended the wiring and also installed new grips with the turn signal lights built in on the ends. Upon completion of the wiring I checked my work and noticed that the switches work but the bar end turn signal lights don't. I checked voltage going into the turn signal module and was at 12v. I Checked voltage coming out of the module and it was 13-15v which was odd to me. Could the module be internally shorting to pwr? Also I should note that the new turn signal lights are not L.E.D. and the stocks turn signal lights were. Would this cause a issue as well? I would greatly appreciate it if someone could help me out on this issue.
The pictures you posted show a VRSCF. These have front and rear LEDs with special modules to power them. This drawing I made shows how the front signals are wired (the indicated item numbers are from a parts catalog):

I'm guessing you connected your incandescent bulbs to connector [256]. If so, that's your problem. Incandescent bulbs need to feed from connector [31] before the LED front signal module.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the speedy response. I went ahead and tapped into the corresponding wires per the wiring diagram you supplied. The right turn signal works however the left doesn't and I noticed that the rear left turn signal light is always on. If I remove the bulb out of the front left turn signal then the rear left turn signal light turns off. And operates properly with the bulb out. I'm getting 12v at the front turn signal receptical with the bulb installed . Possible ground issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Now my turn signal switches wont work and both front turn signal lights wont light up. Still have solid rear left turn signal on. I'm ****in losing my mind over here.. need help!!
 

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Now my turn signal switches wont work and both front turn signal lights wont light up. Still have solid rear left turn signal on. I'm ****in losing my mind over here.. need help!!
Double check your connections. It sounds like you may have tapped into the blue wire by mistake. If it is correct try disconnecting plug 31
and connecting direct to the loom plug without the turn signal module.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I eliminated the module and tapped in directly to connector 31. Turn signal lights still don't work and turn signal switches as well. I uploaded a picture of how I ran my wiring pertaining to the schematic.
 

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Here is how I ran my wiring
That could explain your problem.

The lights shown in the schematic are LED arrays not incandescent. Incandescent front lights for USA VRSC models are twin element amber lights (e.g. 1157A).
  • The connection from connector [31] #5 (the violet wire) should go to the left side 1157A high wattage connector.
  • The connection from connector [31] #2 (the brown wire) should go to the right side 1157A high wattage connector.
  • The connection from connector [31] #3 (the blue wire) should go to the right and left side 1157A low wattage connectors.
  • The connection from connector [31] #1 (the black wire) should go to the right and left side 1157A ground connectors.
 

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same picture as Stever used but now from the manual. the connector with 12 volt is the same on DX or F.
like Coastrider suggested It looks like you have voltage back into the one constant on. the bulb passes positive blue to brown or Purple
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Very well, I'll rewire and update with results. Thank you for the response. Also. Would it be a lot easier if I just eliminate the incandescent bulbs with l.e.d bulbs and rewire the module back in?
 

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Here is how I ran my wiring
I am guessing the indicators you have are just single filament bulbs. If so your problem is the black wire you have connected to the blue at pin 3. Move that connection to the same ground as the other indicator on pin 1. The blue should not be connected to anything. It is just that one wire causing your problem. You should end up with violet to violet, brown to brown and both blacks together to black (pin 1) Hopefully you will understand what I mean!:)
 

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I am guessing the indicators you have are just single filament bulbs. If so your problem is the black wire you have connected to the blue at pin 3. Move that connection to the same ground as the other indicator on pin 1. The blue should not be connected to anything. It is just that one wire causing your problem. You should end up with violet to violet, brown to brown and both blacks together to black (pin 1) Hopefully you will understand what I mean!:)
If they are singlr filament drawing on left. Dual filament drawing on right.
Text Design Drawing Pattern Pattern
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks to all! Ended up buying the electronic diagnostic book from harley for 50$ . You were right coastrider ! Disconnected blk/white wire I had on blue wire and attached to ground wire. Problem solved. But now I have a trottle cable issue lol. Can't seem to find the correct way to route the new cables to the trottle body. Also they seem to be loose and have no throttle return response. Any takers?? Lol
 

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could have saved you that 50 bucks...
All I know with apes don't use the return cable. on my 04 it snapped and It still works fine.. even smoother.
 

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Thanks to all! Ended up buying the electronic diagnostic book from harley for 50$ . You were right coastrider ! Disconnected blk/white wire I had on blue wire and attached to ground wire. Problem solved. But now I have a trottle cable issue lol. Can't seem to find the correct way to route the new cables to the trottle body. Also they seem to be loose and have no throttle return response. Any takers?? Lol
Don't see why changing the height of the handlebars should affect routing of cables to throttle body. As long as the free length of each cable is equal to the originals then the routing and function for both opening and return should be the same. I would check that first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I went from the stock bars to 18" apes with a 2" riser for a total of 20" . Would you happen to know what length throttle cables I would need? I bought 39" cables from drag specialties through harley because that's what they recommended. But they were too long
 

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Well I went from the stock bars to 18" apes with a 2" riser for a total of 20" . Would you happen to know what length throttle cables I would need? I bought 39" cables from drag specialties through harley because that's what they recommended. But they were too long
Sorry, I have no idea on that, but regardless of cable length the important factor for them to work is each cables free length. That is the distance from the end of the outer cable to the nipple on the inner cable with the inner pulled fully to one side. If you compare this to the originals you should have a clue as to why they are not working.
 
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