2013 VRSCDX Fork Seal Replacement

Cerberus2002 said:

Hey all,

After extensively searching the internet, i have come up empty handed on a walk-through on replacing the fork seals on a 2013 Night Rod Special (VRSCDX). Harley wanted $750 to do this. However, these fork seals are actually very easy to do...if you know what you are doing.
Note: This does not cover fork spring removal

What you will need:
• something to lift the front end of the bike
• lug wrench for removing the axle nut
• 19 mm hex wrench or bit
• T-50 Torx bit or a 9mm Hex
• 10 mm 12-point wrench or socket
• standard/metric tool set
• Fork Seal Driver
• Fork Seals and Dust Covers
• 3 pints of H-D Type E fork Fluid

Steps:
1. Remove the two bolts that attach the top fairing/headlight assembly while holding the headlight.
a. Note: if you do not hold the headlight it will fall
2. Remove the light bulbs from the headlight
3. Remove bulbs from the wire harness via the two clips
4. Remove the front fender via two bolts on each side of the wheel.
5. Remove the brake calipers via two bolts for each caliper
6. Loosen the axle nut
7. Lift the bike so that the front wheel is about 2" off the ground.
8. Remove the front wheel.
9. Loosen the bolts for the fork.
a. Note: Make sure that you hold the forks on the last bolt as they will try to slide out on you
10. Lower the fork to the bottom triple tree holder and re-tighten the bottom triple tree.
11. Using the 19 mm, loosen the upper fork cap
a. Do not remove it at this point it time
12. Repeat steps 9 – 11 for the other fork
13. Loosen the bolts for the fork and remove the fork
14. Remove the upper fork cap that was loosened with the 19mm
15. Remove the rubber spacer from the upper fork
16. Dump fluid out of the fork into a container
17. Give the fork about 12 – 15 slow pumps to get all of the fork fluid out
18. Remove the lower cover by using a fiberglass or rubber piece/chisel and a rubber mallet
a. Place rubber or fiberglass chisel in the groove on the lower fork cover
b. Slowly tap around the cover until it comes off
19. Remove the fork seal dust cover.
20. Remove the retainer ring
21. Remove the fork seal
22. Remove the lower fork tube from the upper fork tube
23. Remove all rings, spacers, and seals from lower fork tube
24. Clean all with a dry clean cloth and inspect
25. Reassemble in the following order from the top of the lower fork to the base:
a. slide the lower fork cover on the lower fork
b. slide on the dust cover
c. slide on the fork seal
d. slide on the spacer
e. slide on the ring
f. slide the lower fork into the upper fork
26. using a fork seal driver, drive the fork seal into place
27. put in the fork dust cover
28. Replace the lower fork cover on the bottom of the upper fork
29. Repeat steps 13 – 29 for the other fork
30. Fill the forks to the following specs with HD Type-E Fork fluid
a. Right fork: Measurement – 3.7 inches / volume – 23.1 oz.
b. Left Fork: Measurement – 3.4 inches / volume – 19.7 oz.
31. After the fork fluid is added, replace the rubber spacer to the top of the upper fork and replace the upper fork cap.
32. Replace the forks into the triple tree for the exact sides that you pulled them from as the springs are different for right and left sides.
33. Lightly snug the triple tree bolts as you may need to make adjustments
34. Replace the wheel and axle
a. For a bike with ABS like mine and looking from the front tire:
b. Left side has a collar
c. Right side of the wheel is the abs sensor
d. Outside right of the fork is a spacer
e. Outside right of the spacer is the axle nut
35. Replace the brake calipers
36. After adjustments have been made and forks are leveled, tighten triple tree fork holder nuts
37. Replace the headlight/front fairing assembly
38. Lower the bike
39. Take for a test ride and make any further adjustments.

Click to expand...

Cerberus2002 said:

Hey all,

After extensively searching the internet, i have come up empty handed on a walk-through on replacing the fork seals on a 2013 Night Rod Special (VRSCDX). Harley wanted $750 to do this. However, these fork seals are actually very easy to do...if you know what you are doing.
Note: This does not cover fork spring removal

What you will need:
• something to lift the front end of the bike
• lug wrench for removing the axle nut
• 19 mm hex wrench or bit
• T-50 Torx bit or a 9mm Hex
• 10 mm 12-point wrench or socket
• standard/metric tool set
• Fork Seal Driver
• Fork Seals and Dust Covers
• 3 pints of H-D Type E fork Fluid

Steps:
1. Remove the two bolts that attach the top fairing/headlight assembly while holding the headlight.
a. Note: if you do not hold the headlight it will fall
2. Remove the light bulbs from the headlight
3. Remove bulbs from the wire harness via the two clips
4. Remove the front fender via two bolts on each side of the wheel.
5. Remove the brake calipers via two bolts for each caliper
6. Loosen the axle nut
7. Lift the bike so that the front wheel is about 2" off the ground.
8. Remove the front wheel.
9. Loosen the bolts for the fork.
a. Note: Make sure that you hold the forks on the last bolt as they will try to slide out on you
10. Lower the fork to the bottom triple tree holder and re-tighten the bottom triple tree.
11. Using the 19 mm, loosen the upper fork cap
a. Do not remove it at this point it time
12. Repeat steps 9 – 11 for the other fork
13. Loosen the bolts for the fork and remove the fork
14. Remove the upper fork cap that was loosened with the 19mm
15. Remove the rubber spacer from the upper fork
16. Dump fluid out of the fork into a container
17. Give the fork about 12 – 15 slow pumps to get all of the fork fluid out
18. Remove the lower cover by using a fiberglass or rubber piece/chisel and a rubber mallet
a. Place rubber or fiberglass chisel in the groove on the lower fork cover
b. Slowly tap around the cover until it comes off
19. Remove the fork seal dust cover.
20. Remove the retainer ring
21. Remove the fork seal
22. Remove the lower fork tube from the upper fork tube
23. Remove all rings, spacers, and seals from lower fork tube
24. Clean all with a dry clean cloth and inspect
25. Reassemble in the following order from the top of the lower fork to the base:
a. slide the lower fork cover on the lower fork
b. slide on the dust cover
c. slide on the fork seal
d. slide on the spacer
e. slide on the ring
f. slide the lower fork into the upper fork
26. using a fork seal driver, drive the fork seal into place
27. put in the fork dust cover
28. Replace the lower fork cover on the bottom of the upper fork
29. Repeat steps 13 – 29 for the other fork
30. Fill the forks to the following specs with HD Type-E Fork fluid
a. Right fork: Measurement – 3.7 inches / volume – 23.1 oz.
b. Left Fork: Measurement – 3.4 inches / volume – 19.7 oz.
31. After the fork fluid is added, replace the rubber spacer to the top of the upper fork and replace the upper fork cap.
32. Replace the forks into the triple tree for the exact sides that you pulled them from as the springs are different for right and left sides.
33. Lightly snug the triple tree bolts as you may need to make adjustments
34. Replace the wheel and axle
a. For a bike with ABS like mine and looking from the front tire:
b. Left side has a collar
c. Right side of the wheel is the abs sensor
d. Outside right of the fork is a spacer
e. Outside right of the spacer is the axle nut
35. Replace the brake calipers
36. After adjustments have been made and forks are leveled, tighten triple tree fork holder nuts
37. Replace the headlight/front fairing assembly
38. Lower the bike
39. Take for a test ride and make any further adjustments.

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jfisher said:

I am also curious as to what size fork seal driver you used? And do you happen to have the part numbers of what you replaced? Fork seal itself, etc?

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rbabos said:

Harley fork seal kit comes with seal , wiper, washer and clip. You need one kit per fork if you do both. ( 2 ) 475ml bottles of TypE per one for and 4 if doing both. You will have a bit left if doing both. Any generic 43mm seal driver will work or abs pipe cut in tow pieces down the middle. Part numbers of seal kit is 49380-09 . If you like to gamble, the seal can be had aftermarket as in All Balls or Drag might have them but due to the pain in the ass job, I'd stay with OEM as it's been reported they have the best seals. I do question that as most likely they all come from the same place in the end.
Ron

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jfisher said:

Ron, you are the man. Just wanted to say that. I went up to Harley today and ordered two seal kits (using that part number so you better be right LOL) and 4 pints of the Type E Fluid. I cannot remotely justify the price that HD is wanting to charge after reading through this. Worst case scenario if I get stuck and screw something up I'll just take the bare forks up to HD.

Click to expand...

jfisher said:

Ron, you are the man. Just wanted to say that. I went up to Harley today and ordered two seal kits (using that part number so you better be right LOL) and 4 pints of the Type E Fluid. I cannot remotely justify the price that HD is wanting to charge after reading through this. Worst case scenario if I get stuck and screw something up I'll just take the bare forks up to HD.

Click to expand...

Cerberus2002 said:

Hey all,

After extensively searching the internet, i have come up empty handed on a walk-through on replacing the fork seals on a 2013 Night Rod Special (VRSCDX). Harley wanted $750 to do this. However, these fork seals are actually very easy to do...if you know what you are doing.
Note: This does not cover fork spring removal

What you will need:
• something to lift the front end of the bike
• lug wrench for removing the axle nut
• 19 mm hex wrench or bit
• T-50 Torx bit or a 9mm Hex
• 10 mm 12-point wrench or socket
• standard/metric tool set
• Fork Seal Driver
• Fork Seals and Dust Covers
• 3 pints of H-D Type E fork Fluid

Steps:
1. Remove the two bolts that attach the top fairing/headlight assembly while holding the headlight.
a. Note: if you do not hold the headlight it will fall
2. Remove the light bulbs from the headlight
3. Remove bulbs from the wire harness via the two clips
4. Remove the front fender via two bolts on each side of the wheel.
5. Remove the brake calipers via two bolts for each caliper
6. Loosen the axle nut
7. Lift the bike so that the front wheel is about 2" off the ground.
8. Remove the front wheel.
9. Loosen the bolts for the fork.
a. Note: Make sure that you hold the forks on the last bolt as they will try to slide out on you
10. Lower the fork to the bottom triple tree holder and re-tighten the bottom triple tree.
11. Using the 19 mm, loosen the upper fork cap
a. Do not remove it at this point it time
12. Repeat steps 9 – 11 for the other fork
13. Loosen the bolts for the fork and remove the fork
14. Remove the upper fork cap that was loosened with the 19mm
15. Remove the rubber spacer from the upper fork
16. Dump fluid out of the fork into a container
17. Give the fork about 12 – 15 slow pumps to get all of the fork fluid out
18. Remove the lower cover by using a fiberglass or rubber piece/chisel and a rubber mallet
a. Place rubber or fiberglass chisel in the groove on the lower fork cover
b. Slowly tap around the cover until it comes off
19. Remove the fork seal dust cover.
20. Remove the retainer ring
21. Remove the fork seal
22. Remove the lower fork tube from the upper fork tube
23. Remove all rings, spacers, and seals from lower fork tube
24. Clean all with a dry clean cloth and inspect
25. Reassemble in the following order from the top of the lower fork to the base:
a. slide the lower fork cover on the lower fork
b. slide on the dust cover
c. slide on the fork seal
d. slide on the spacer
e. slide on the ring
f. slide the lower fork into the upper fork
26. using a fork seal driver, drive the fork seal into place
27. put in the fork dust cover
28. Replace the lower fork cover on the bottom of the upper fork
29. Repeat steps 13 – 29 for the other fork
30. Fill the forks to the following specs with HD Type-E Fork fluid
a. Right fork: Measurement – 3.7 inches / volume – 23.1 oz.
b. Left Fork: Measurement – 3.4 inches / volume – 19.7 oz.
31. After the fork fluid is added, replace the rubber spacer to the top of the upper fork and replace the upper fork cap.
32. Replace the forks into the triple tree for the exact sides that you pulled them from as the springs are different for right and left sides.
33. Lightly snug the triple tree bolts as you may need to make adjustments
34. Replace the wheel and axle
a. For a bike with ABS like mine and looking from the front tire:
b. Left side has a collar
c. Right side of the wheel is the abs sensor
d. Outside right of the fork is a spacer
e. Outside right of the spacer is the axle nut
35. Replace the brake calipers
36. After adjustments have been made and forks are leveled, tighten triple tree fork holder nuts
37. Replace the headlight/front fairing assembly
38. Lower the bike
39. Take for a test ride and make any further adjustments.

Click to expand...

relliks1529 said:

Hey man I’m gonna do my fork seals on my nightrod but i was just wondering, so you dont have to remove the fork spring and you dont need the special tool for it?

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rbabos said:

Technically, as a work around to disassembly for seals only, all you need to do is remove the fork cap off of the rods. The inner tube with springs, internal nut on the right and left side spacers all come out as a unit. Oil levels are determined with springs out so you need to come up with an accurate volume method instead of the measurements in the SM.
Ron

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relliks1529 said:

Wow thank you i have all the tools except the fork spring compressor and was thinking id have to take in my forks,

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rbabos said:

The compressor is generic. Race tech and others make the same tool a dealer would use. Me, too much down time in retirement, I just made one. Biggest issue with not disassembling fully is the cleaning, especially the left fork damper area and setting the oil levels prior to buttoning things up. Dimensions is the most repeatable accurate method.
Ron

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relliks1529 said:

If i dont disassemble how much fluid over should i add thoughts?

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rbabos said:

All I can suggest is wash and dry all the innards and use the cc amounts for each fork on the refill. Dumping the oil and measuring will be skewed due to some remaining in there. Not real exacting method. I suspect the conversion to ounces is wrong in the SM if I recall. There are a couple of errors in the SM. Imagine that? CC is likely the Showa fork manufacturer spec and likely more accurate. Go with that. Don't forget to pump the damper dry during the cleaning process and pump it full of new oil, before final amount in the left fork. Keep them vertical on the fill process to prevent losing fluids and screwing up your cc amounts.
Ron

Click to expand...

rbabos said:

All I can suggest is wash and dry all the innards and use the cc amounts for each fork on the refill. Dumping the oil and measuring will be skewed due to some remaining in there. Not real exacting method. I suspect the conversion to ounces is wrong in the SM if I recall. There are a couple of errors in the SM. Imagine that? CC is likely the Showa fork manufacturer spec and likely more accurate. Go with that. Don't forget to pump the damper dry during the cleaning process and pump it full of new oil, before final amount in the left fork. Keep them vertical on the fill process to prevent losing fluids and screwing up your cc amounts.
Ron

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relliks1529 said:

Update was able to get em off and replace topped off fluid to my best judgement took out for ride, feels much better and seals are no longer leaking, I appreciate your help today.

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rbabos said:

Good job. Did you find out why the seal was leaking?
Ron

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