DID SO! Went to El Paso this morning, super-nice folks at Barnett's down there, giant showroom floor. I was blown away. Hauled it back on a trailer to Alamogordo, off-loaded it and road the last 30 miles up the mountain and 5 miles back in the canyon to the house. (I posted in the new member area twice over the weekend, still don't see them. It's got all the details about where I live etc.)
Did 4th gear most of the way up - 16 miles climbing 4500' to 8600' msl in Cloudcroft - Very smooth ride. I'll have pics soon but was told the 2 into 1s are D&Ds. Really aggressive sound. Y'all tell me when you see 'em.
Bike came from Butte MT if anyone here might have traded it. The shifter was angled too far down for me so moved that one notch, much better now. I'm 5'8" but can stand mostly flat-footed on level ground. Bar position feels pretty good, and the mirrors worked well - looks like the PO already added extensions. Only real unknown is an aftermarket googaw bolted to the positive terminal of the battery and coming out by the right thigh, looks almost like a coax/ RCA plug. Again, pics to follow.
Barnett's put a new front tire on it (6K miles? Hmm) and a battery. I paid the diff to get a gel battery. I need to investigate tuning to make sure it's dialed in for my mostly mountain riding. And I can't get the key to work in the ignition or the steering lock, and the alarm fob doesn't work. I suspect they mixed up keys as there is an '09 and a '14 there also.
Tomorrow I'll look for a good shop manual. Already looked at some of the items flybigjet lists as must-haves, like Blue Gauges and '07 bars. This is all new to me, having been into metrics for going on 50 years. Again, should be fun.
That wire coming off the positive side of the battery likely is for a battery tender. Use it to charge your battery when the bike is parked in the garage. Once you go through the steps to remove everything to replace the battery you'll know why. :hidesbeh:
Ah. I remember now the salesman said that’s probably what it is. I have a couple different tenders, hope one will fit. Yeah, I’ve read through the battery removal ordeal, I get the tender thing. Thanks for the heads up.
Called the dealer about the key issue, don’t see any numbers on it but he’s using the VIN to get new keys for me. Doesn’t help with the alarm, as far as I know. Anyway, ramming speed!
I dusted off a few of my old R notes-- might help, might not.
Everything below fits the R with little to no modification and I'd consider them worthwhile modifications (Especially the foot brake mod, better brake pads/fluid, suspension changes and the slipper clutch. DEFINITELY the slipper clutch).
If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.
- HD chrome headlight shield: (HD Part # 69236-04). Deflects additional light onto the road and out of your eyes.
- X Super Sport dark smoked wind deflector: Use the smaller 1/4” diameter “S” shaped support bars for the B sport deflector instead of the X support bars.
- DX long-stem tapered mirrors: Increases rearward visibility over the stock R mirrors due to the offset mirror pivot point.
- Horn cover modification: Simple (and free) order of installing stock mounting hardware. Moves horn cover inboard to give more knee clearance.
- Tiger Racing upper & lower belt guard.
- HD chrome swing arm pivot bolt covers.
- Corbin seat & pillion: Moves seating position back about 3”.
- 2007 R undertail w/ deleted red rear reflectors: Eliminates red side reflectors and strip of black plastic on the side of the 2006 tail.
- HD improved steering stem flange nut: (HD Kit # 457360-7, flange nut & instructions) or (HD Part # 8193, flange nut). Hint: Kit not needed-- just get the flange nut and find a copy of the instructions online.
- HD stainless steel lower triple tree (the definitive “clunk” fix).
- Amsoil Ea high-flow nanofilter air filter: (Part # EaAM73401).
- HD High Performance Gold spark plugs: (HD Part # 32331-05).
- HD Screamin’ Eagle Performance slipper clutch: (HD Part # 37938-08KA). Clutch lever pull is reduced by ~20%. Basically, instead of grabbing as soon as the lever’s released, the clutch ramps up (i.e. “slips”) the binding force, therefore keeping the back wheel from immediately locking up when downshifting.
- Amsoil 20W-50 synthetic motorcycle oil.
- Amsoil Ea nanofiber oil filter: (Part # EaOM136C). A trick to removing and installing the filter-- behind the bottom of the radiator shroud, there are two bolts that look like they’re bolted into part of the frame. Loosen both bolts and the entire bottom of the radiator assembly will rotate forward a few inches—that gives enough clearance to get at the filter from the left side. Radiator shrouds do not need to be removed.
- HD 5-spoke cast aluminum19x3 and 18x5.5 wheels: (HD Part # 43634-08- front & #43635-08- rear), and build-up kits (HD Part # 43848-08- front & #43861-08- rear).
- Metzler ME880 Marathon 120/70/19 & ME880 Marathon XXL 200/50/18 tires: Rear fits with no modifications required.
- HD Satin Black clutch/brake reservoir covers: (HD Part # 46324-06/clutch & 42855-06B/brake).
- ATE Type 200 DOT-4 brake fluid: Higher boiling point helps keep reservoirs from leaking/boiling over.
- Lyndall Racing Gold Plus brake pads: (Part # 7254 Gold+). Two pairs required for the front and one pair for the rear (six pads total).
- Rear brake pedal modification: Tilts the front of the rear brake foot lever down an additional ~10-15°. Remove rear brake foot control to expose the rear master cylinder. At the top of the cylinder there’s a bushing surrounding a ferrule. Take ferrule off, remove bushing and drill a hole all the way through the ferrule. Reinstall bushing and flip the whole thing 180° from where it was, then reassemble everything. You’ll need to dremel a tiny sliver of metal off of the back of the rear brake foot control.
- RaceTech fork springs: (Part # FRFP-S3827090 for a 215 lb rider, including gear). Maxima 20-weight fork oil.
- Works Performance Street Tracker rear springs.
- Drag Specialties turn signal relocation bolts.
- H-D smoked front & rear turn signal lenses.
- Jam Straight Hyperbright radial 1157 (dual element-front) and 1156 (single element-rear) 20-led amber turn signal bulbs: These have 14 led’s in the front of the bulb but also have an additional 6 led’s arrayed in a radial pattern around the back/sides-- when they come on the radial leds shine directly onto the reflector and make things much brighter-- easily as bright as the original incandescent bulb. A load leveler is required.
- Black Raptor shift light w/ white led’s (rpm shift point set to 8400): There are three wires; a ground, a switched power lead, and a wire to hook up to the tach signal (there’s an open space for this in the ECU).
- Hoen Xenonmatch 55W (H11) low beam and Xenonmatch-Plus 65W (H9) high beam headlamp bulbs.
For some reason Aviation guys are attracted to the R Model, so welcome flyday58 ! I'm an A&P mechanic of almost 40 years experience and love the R. I've done quite a few of flybigjets mods and one more I did was to buy a set of H-D engine sport guards ( specific to the R model required for fit and looks ) and mounted a small set of highway pegs to stretch my legs out for relief from the kinda cramped (at times) mid pegs, especially while cruising. Guys have also mounted pegs on the downtubes but the guards I have reduced damage on mine to almost 0 when it got hit on the left and a slow speed drop on the right so I'm sold on that aspect of them.
MCO was a good layover, if a little muggy. I grew up in TLH and worked 28 years in IAH so used to it. Started my working life in the engine and prop shops at Keesler AFB on C-130s and did that for 22 years so there with you on the A&P side. Worked for the Aero Club on base wrenching and instructing, same at the local aeropuerto across the bay. Started with the airlines in the pointy end in '90. That's pretty much the bio.
I'd like to source a set of oem pipes and '07 bars w/ all the required to work parts, along with a good manual (Clymer's, H-D) and a good site for ordering oem stuff. Been using Partzilla and Bike Bandit for the metrics but they don't do H-Ds. Need a really good cross-ref site to see what years fit others, if there's even such a site. That's what I'm working on today.
And I guess I'm not getting notifications and can't post pics because my post count hasn't hit the minimum threshold yet. If there's a link for subscribing I don't see it, but thought it was automatic. AND photobucket keeps taking me to their beta site so need to figure out how to modify their code so pics will show up.
Sun just came out after raining all night. Wonder what I should do...:biker:
Thanks for the links, added them to my list. Just got back from a 50-miler, love the way this thing carves the mountain curves in 3rd gear.
A couple things. It died after 5 miles puttering down the canyon road out to the highway. Can't get up any kind of speed due to the rocks/ gravel/ scree/ elk/ deer/ cows/ potholes/ falling trees you get the idea. Could that cause it to load up or foul out? !st fuel-injected bike I've owned. And this is in the mountains; My house is at 9000', bottom of my ride was 7500'. Do it need a tune for up here? I looked at Dynojet's site but don't know what I need, plus reading some posts by others about bodged tunes makes me a little nervous about doing it.
The other thing is the jiffy stand. There's a helluva lotta lean to this 650-pound beast; is there an adjustment to get the bike not as lean-y? My Enduros use the Bloc-O-Wood™ patented method to keep em from tipping, don't wanna use that ghetto technique. Oh, and if it has an HD alarm, where do I look for it? I think the dealer got the wrong fob and key from the dealer they got it from so hopefully I can reprogram it if it's there.
When I can post pics I will, still locked out due to my newbeeness. Looks like I'm done with Photobucket for pics, I get redirected to a beta site no matter what I do, and my pics disappeared from the Honda forum today. Nobody else seems to be having the problem but i'm sick of fooling with PB. So it goes.
Bike shouldn't die, and altitude won't effect it like that. As an oversimplification, the bike's IAT sensor & ECU take a "snapshot" of the ambient conditions when it's started. It will run that trim (more or less), until the next time you start it. That's why you don't have to jet it like a carbureted bike.
As for tunes, there are lots of different options. Do a LOT of research before you put down the money. You can go the hard way (tuner + dyno time, TTS MasterTune where nothing stays on the bike or PC-V where you have to hide a module are examples), or you can go the easier way (Dynojet Power Vision, which auto-tunes and is then removed from the bike after a few rides) as an example. Having done it the hard way, if I had to do it all over again, I'd look VERY hard at the Power Vision.
But, something's wrong with your bike. It should NEVER die-- bring it back to the dealer and have them make it right! Could be fuel contamination, a gunned up fuel sock, bad plugs, or a whole raft of other problems.
The jiffy stand is the jiffy stand. It works fine.
Not sure where the alarm is on the R, since I used the Digital Guard Dog. I'd most likely look under the pillion seat-- there's not a whole lot of room otherwise. The only other remote possibility would be behind the two silver side grills, but my money is under the pillion.