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Discussion Starter #22
Thank you for clarifications! I did flip that compression release tab on the exhaust cam this morning and heard a click. I will redo the leakdown test tonight now with truly closed valves. So far front cylinder does seem to hold the air pressure when blown with compressed air.
If I block those compression release tabs and do another compression test, should the compression on both cylinders be in the area of 220 psi?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thank you for the manual page, I had that info from youtube HD informational video I watched last night.
What is the reason for the compression release mechanism? Is it to make an initial crank easier for the starter motor?
Are the compression readings supposed to be so much different between the cylinders, or is it because of the compression release mechanism?
 

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Once again you cannot deactivate the compression releases while cranking. The compression specs for warm motor that I posted above show the compression rating for the front and then for the rear at 2 different rates for a reason. Like I said before you compression for a cold engine is spot on in acceptable range. Did you check for codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
FIXED!


After all kinds of dancing around and throwing cheap but unnecessary parts at it, it is fixed.
Verdict, brand new looking park plugs and factory ECU were junk. Feeling kind of stupid for not starting with plugs but those NGK's looked perfect and spark was nice and blue. Factory ECU on the other hand kept erratic idle and caused very easy stall for as long as I remember my bike.
I have to say that Thunder Max ECU is worth every penny, I cannot wait to finish assembly and to take the bike out for a spin.
 

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