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Submariner
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186 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just got back from the stealer an hour from my doorstep (of course the one 2 minutes away has a bad reputation for service) with a labor quote I couldn't believe... :soapbox:

Now am I out to lunch or are they? Was quoted 20 hours @ $75/hr to basically R&R everything on the front (triple tree, fork sliders, springs, calipers, wheel & rotors) and rear (swingarm, rotor, pully, wheel, calipers) end of the bike, as well as swap out skins.

Any idea how much time this should really take?
 

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Registered
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974 Posts
75 per hour seems steep in WI area
Most dealers are slow right now in the north and 51-53 per hour is the norm.
Once spring is near add 10 bucks to that.
The hours part I do not know
JMO
BobT
 

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Color me Gone
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27,333 Posts
Chris I thought a frame off was only 12 hours labor.

Max
 

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FASTESTSTKBLTDRV
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1,267 Posts
Frame Change According To Harley Is 12.0 Hrs
The Labor Code Is 2306. Rear Swing Arm Is 1.5
Code Is 2359. Triple Tree Is 1.1 Hrs Code Is 2316.
SEVICE FORK SLIDER IS 1.5 FOR BOTH.CODE 2342.
The Above Times Are Warranty We Usally Times
Time By 1.25. My Shop Rate Is $61.88 All Of The
Time.
 

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Submariner
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186 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Rick Nielson said:
Frame Change According To Harley Is 12.0 Hrs
The Labor Code Is 2306. Rear Swing Arm Is 1.5
Code Is 2359. Triple Tree Is 1.1 Hrs Code Is 2316.
The Above Times Are Warranty We Usally Times
Time By 1.25. My Shop Rate Is $61.88 All Of The
Time.
Based on that it would be cheaper to fly you here and have you do it....
 

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281 Posts
They charge $75 an hour in San Antonio. I assumed that was standard from what I've seen at various locations, except for low cost areas where it would probably be less...
 

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Submariner
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186 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
$75 seems to be the average around here as well. I wasn't as concerned about the labor rate as I was the quoted time - at 20 hours that's $1500 in labor!
 

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Have Gun Will Travel
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1,008 Posts
My dealer here in Fayetteville is $65 and that is considered high around here. We have one place that is $35 and does good work for most things.
 

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I seek only water...
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1,029 Posts
C'mon Chris -- Don't be so light in the loafers.Time to step over the edge my friend.
I just pulled out the service manual and looked the items you want to swap out. Went out to look at my bike -- can do easy. (It ain't gonna play out at one sitting though)
Pull out your manual and look at what you want to do. (All you nuke guys got big brains don't ya?) And now that you have a new lift.... Not only that, if you get in a bind all you have to do is get on the 'puter and ask someone here. Is this a great country or what.

It's all part of becoming one with your bike weedhoppah. :moped:

Like I've said, before I bought the 'Rod I had the mechanical wherewithal of an oyster on a half-shell. Now... I love working on her.
 

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FASTESTSTKBLTDRV
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1,267 Posts
Also Unless You Had A Bad Exper. With The Dealer
Closer To You,you Might Give Them A Try.
I Say This Because Opinions From Other People
Are Like A$$ Holes We All Got Um And They All
Stink!
 

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Submariner
Joined
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186 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Michael333 said:
C'mon Chris -- Don't be so light in the loafers.Time to step over the edge my friend.
I just pulled out the service manual and looked the items you want to swap out. Went out to look at my bike -- can do easy.
Pull out your manual and look at what you want to do. (All you nuke guys got big brains don't ya?) And now that you have a new lift.... Not only that, if you get in a bind all you have to do is get on the 'puter and ask someone here. Is this a great country or what.

It's all part of becoming one with your bike weedhoppah. :moped:

Like I've said, before I bought the 'Rod I had the mechanical wherewithal of an oyster on a half-shell. Now... I love working on her.
Even with the lack of experience, I've got no problem doing the work myself; however, I don't have the tools, a garage, or the time. I don't mind paying to have it done, either, but I refuse to get gouged.
 

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I seek only water...
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1,029 Posts
Yup, those are show stoppers. Too bad. :sad:

Then I'd do like Rick recommends and give the other guy a shot. Maybe even an independant shop -- it's pretty generic stuff isn't it?
 

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backcracker
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735 Posts
Check with local shops that aren't Harley, I have a guy that his labor prices don't go over 50 ever. They start at 35 per hr for electrical and up to 50 from there. Most of those guys do work on Harleys and half the time they are willing to go the extra mile to get your business.
 

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SNAFU
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13,094 Posts
A lot of independants are taking the V-Rod classes. Check around.
 

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Registered
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974 Posts
Independant shops ?
Sure...
How Many H-D dealerships have 10,15,20 years with 60 degree four valve engines that are liquid cooled ?
If I did the PCIII thing it would be at the Honda dealership just north of the H-D dealer(I am a tried and true H-D person too, but experience is important too). My local H-D tech did not realize there was a cross point(torque/HP) on Dynos in the 5,280 rpm area(generally speaking).What does that say?
A Race Tuner .........stick with H-D.
JMO :2cents:
BobT
 

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Tired of the crap
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2,819 Posts
BobT said:
Independant shops ?
My local H-D tech did not realize there was a cross point(torque/HP) on Dynos in the 5,280 rpm area(generally speaking)
Torque will ALWAYS be equal to horsepower at exactly 5252 rpm (See this article for more on the subject..)

A H-D tech. probably is not familiar with the concept because prior to the V-Rod, I doubt that many Harley engines could even make 5252 rpm without blowing up.... :vrod:

Tell your Service Manager that they need to send their techs. to HDU for the beginning and advanced VRSC classes.
 

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Moderator
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2,552 Posts
I read the posted article on 5252 and it stated:

The Only Thing You Really Need to Know
Repeat after me. "It is better to make torque at high rpm than at low rpm, because you can take advantage of *gearing*." :)


That sure is different than what allot are trying to accomplish "More torque at lower rpm's"

What is everyones thoughts on this?

Frank
 

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SNAFU
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13,094 Posts
I think a better way of wording would be, "make as much torque as early as you can and maintain that torque as long as possible".

The quote in the article is specifically geared towards drag racing. Other forms of racing need different torque curves to take advantage of where their engines spend most of their time. Road racing cars, especially endurance racers, want a long, flat torque curve and will sacrifice torque on the top end depending on the track (short tracks demand better acceleration, long tracks need to pull harder on the top end, etc.).

For the street I firmly believe that making more torque in the midrange without losing existing torque on the top end makes for a quicker street bike. Note I said quicker, not faster.
 
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