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COLISSE de TABARNAK
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What year/model factory wheel should I start looking for to get the parts together for the swap? Forgive any stupid questions I just bought my VROD last weekend after years of sportbikes so I'm new to all of this. Thanks.
I dont think a lot of members are still active here. Most of 'em are on Facebook, "The V-Rod Owners" group.
I just logged on for the first time in five years. I was just curious to see if it changed.
Those guys will anwser all your questions.
 

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All your "how-to" answers can be found here. Facebook isn't much of a repository of knowledge, certainly nothing that can be searched easily.

The 240 conversion is fairly straightforward, mostly based on the 2007 model year with 1-inch axles. Subsequent years went to 25-mm axles and those too, Muscle wheels in particular, can be adapted to fit earlier '02-'06 V-rods as well. A 240 tucked under the narrow rear fender of an earlier V-rod fills it out nicely. Whereas a 240 under a later V-rod with the fat a$$ rear fender looks skinny and needs a tire in the 280-300+ mm range to give it any sense of proportion.
 

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All your "how-to" answers can be found here. Facebook isn't much of a repository of knowledge, certainly nothing that can be searched easily.

The 240 conversion is fairly straightforward, mostly based on the 2007 model year with 1-inch axles. Subsequent years went to 25-mm axles and those too, Muscle wheels in particular, can be adapted to fit earlier '02-'06 V-rods as well. A 240 tucked under the narrow rear fender of an earlier V-rod fills it out nicely. Whereas a 240 under a later V-rod with the fat a$$ rear fender looks skinny and needs a tire in the 280-300+ mm range to give it any sense of proportion.
I'm going to take off the "dog's ass" and it looks like the rear of the fender might ride kind of high in proportion to the tire. Do people modify the original fender or do they make an aftermarket fender that will still accommodate a passenger seat?
 

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It's the inner fender you need to cut out in order to accommodate the wider radius of a 240 under full shock compression. Several cut-out examples posted here. The outer fender remains untouched; passenger pillon & seat unaffected. You can even keep the dog-ass if you want but likely has to be trimmed and fastened differently. Most go to a side-mount license plate and relocate rear turn signals, or a new LED tail light with integral turn signals. Of course you can change the back end completely with an aftermarket custom fender - e.g. Ghost Rider.
 

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Just to check...

Hi all,

I have looked through all the pages, and I am still a bit stuck...

I have a 2007 Nightrod VRSCD with 180. I have just bought a 2013 Muscle wheel 40900079A with orange pinstrip that apparently I can remove with a bit of acetone (nail polish remover).

My understanding is that the 07 bike has a 1" axle with bearings 9247 that are 52mmODx1"IDx21mm wide whereas the later wheels after 2008 has 25mm bearings 9276 that are 52mmODx25mmIDx15mm wide.

I have seen a Harley kit 43861-08a that contains the 1" bearings 9247 and mid spacer 43704-01. The spacer apparently is required as the space between bearings are different.

I know that the 07 has the right pulley, belt, swing arm etc. But would anyone know if this bearing and spacer kit is all I need? There seems to be some suggestion that the kit is enough, or will I need different outer spacers too?

I guess the issue is the difference in bearing width. I seem to recall something about the original spacer being 0.40" different and if that is right, then that would be about 10.7mm so would account for the difference in bearing width however that would mean the bearing pockets are machined deeper than they need to be and that the bearing in a stock 08 onwards wheel does not seat all the way in... I am confused!

Thanks for any help you can give.
 

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I did the swap on my 06 but it's been a while and I am not sure about the 07. I have no idea about that "kit" from Harley. It can be a bit confusing with all the different info on here. So... here goes... you only need to change a few things from stock. Everything on the left side of the wheel stays stock as far as bearings and spacers. you can use your pulley or machine it down or get a thinner one, your choice but all the spacers and bearing stay stock from your bike. You need the wheel bearings for YOUR bike so you can use YOUR axle. here is where you need to be accurate. You need a custom spacer for your new wheel. I did cut down my stock one myself but I highly recommend you measure and get it done, up to you. I believe you need 5.78 inches. but check the the thickness of your wheel to be sure. you want the spacer to be JUST proud of the wheel so the bearings hit the spacer and not the wheel. once you get that then you need to get a custom spacer for the right side. Cut down a stock one or get one made. You can mock up the whole thing once you get your wheel together and use a bunch of 1" shims from home depot to figure out how wide you want that final spacer. You want to adjust the spacer width so your caliper and rotor line up nice. That's it as far as spacers and bearings. you need to cut a 45* angle on your swingarm where the caliper mounts (1 minute job with grinder). this is so your wheel doesn't hit it. you need the narrow belt, and cut a notch in your belt guard. (just hold it up to it and you will see, not hard). I think that's it. There's a good write up from Hoffa on here, I'll try and find it..
 

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Thanks Moler,

I know my 07 already has the right pulley and bowl. I am looking through the parts lists in Ronnies HD site and it seems to suggest (by comparing the Nightrod special with 8" wheel to the standard Nightrod with 5") that the spacers are the same. However there is no spacer between pulley and wheel bearing listed, but it does show the spacer in the diagram.

I will create a little spreadsheet of parts comparing 07 with 08 and post it here. Will also update when I finally get it done.

I guess my first step now is to order 43704-01 spacer and 1" bearings so that I potentially have all the bits I need, before I pull the wheel (don't want the bike off the road).
 

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Completed swap...

Hi all,

Just completed the swap and tested it.

So my bike is 2007 VRSCD.

I fitted a 2013 wheel from I think a Muscle. It had ABS.

I opted to keep my 1" axle as my calliper mount, pulley bearing etc are all 1". Also I wanted to be able to swap back to my old wheel when tyre change time comes around.

So I went on Ronnies Partsfinder to get the numbers for all the spacers from a 2008 or later bike. Getting the spacers that included the brake side as I do not have ABS.

All the new steel spacers straight from HD are still 1" internal diameter so no need to bore them out. The aluminium spacer on the brake calliper side was 25mm... Make up your mind Harley... So I filed and dremeled it out.

I was worried about cheap bearings, but I managed to find NSK bearings from 123bearing.co.uk. I think they sell around the world and mine actually came from France within a couple of days. The bearing numbers are 25TM18C3**UR UMEL 307 if searching on google probably drop out the **. NSK are a good brand. I think these may be with seals for a gearbox, but I pried the seals off and put a touch of SKF bearing grease in them to be sure and then clicked seals back.

What I found when I did the job was that despite the different part numbers, (from left to right) the first spacer by outer of the pulley and the spacer after pulley but before first wheel bearing were the same size as mine so I did not need to buy them.

When Harley faffed about with the wheel sizes in 2008, they kep everything up to that first bearing the same. The change in bearing size from 21mm to 15mm was accommodated by changing long sleeve spacer 43704-01 to 43704-08 and alter bearing registers in the wheel and the spacer on brake calliper side.

Learning points - when taking bike apart, undo the rear calliper from it mount before taking wheel off. I could not get it back with it still on its mount and then found it hard to undo the bolts with the calliper loose.

Grease axle well

All worked well and she feels fat and cool. Too early to tell difference in handling and I need to check tyre pressures., but she did feel good if a bit less willing to roll in. But I went round the roundabout and almost got her to the edge (well chicken strips are about 10mm).

Sorry Komo? I only have 2 posts and can not reply yet to PMs, but hope this helps.
 

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Torque settings

Rear rotor 23-27lb ft 36nm
Compensator 55-65lb ft 81nm
Rear axle 140-150 lb ft 189nm
Rear calliper 61nm
Rear shocks 65nm

Belt deflection 8mm at 10lb

Last two are in range of torque...
 

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This is what I used. All bought new from HD last month.

From left to right:

41550-08 same as the 41550-07 approx 0.285" 7.11mm
Pulley
40668-07 approx 1.519" 38.5mm already on 07 bike but not listed on Partsfinder!
Wheel bearing 15mm NSK 25TM18C3-UR
43704-08 approx 6.021" 152.9 mm
Wheel bearing 15mm NSK 25TM18C3-UR
41242-08 approx 0.737" 18.61mm

All are steel with 25.4mm or 1" internal dimension apart from 41242-08 which is aluminium and 25mm internal diameter. But this is easy to dremel or file out.

So you only need to buy 43704-08, two bearings and 41242-08.
 
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