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That's awesome, congrats on getting published! It amazes me that 20 years later, the leather community is finally starting to embrace the idea. I sold my F several years ago and have been on the hunt recently for another to build a turbo setup for.
 

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Did rip down the engine, driven around 10.000km on street, since the last overhaul 10y ago. Nothing was wrong in the bike, but wanted to seen how coated crank bearings are doing. The crank bearings are perfect, but I found some headgasket leak and pitting in the straight cut 2nd gears. The wrist pin problem was known from the last overhaul and it will be solved now with Mukle.
Thinking to leave the balancer shaft off to minimise related broblems. Has someone been using Falicon 3/8” full circle w/o balancer on street, is it vibrating too much to keep teeth and screws on board?


View attachment 609713
Time to solve this gear pitting issue. Give these guys a call, they make custom billet gears for almost anything (I have a complete set of their billet gears in my DSM auto transmission....). Not too expensive considering either: Liberty's Gears | An Elite Tremec Transmission Distributor, making us the best source for all of your T-5, T-45, T-56, T-56 Magnum, TKO-500, TKO-600, 3650 and 6060 transmission needs.

Tell them you heard about the billet Mitsubishi/DSM auto gears they sell and want to know if they can make one for the Vrod (you will have to send them a gear to look at.....).
 

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Let me ask a question - you guys are aware of the fact that there are two hardness levels for Revo straight cut second gear sets available, correct ? One for street use one for drag racing/hard high power launch use ? Who's gears and what hardness level are you running that are pitting on your High Power Mad Scientist Revo engine builds ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #604 ·
Who's gears and what hardness level are you running that are pitting on your High Power Mad Scientist Revo engine builds ?
Mine is non Destroyer version from V&H ten years ago. I noticed the pitting started in 1000-2000km. Now I have to replace them, driven 10.000km on street.
 

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I'm not sure if V & H made their own straight cut second gear sets or had a vendor like Robinson Industries, Inc. 644 Middle Country Road Suite 10, St James, NY 11780-3231 make them - I learned from Bill Robinson that they make soft and hardened 2nd straight cut gearsets for the Revo, soft for short duration drag racing & hard launches which absorb the higher sudden stress better and don't crack which may be what you have. Hardened for longer mileage street ridden bikes that resist pitting and spalling for a much longer time which is what I ordered. You may want to contact him I'll look for the phone number, but guys like Vreeland's and Fitzgerald's may already sell his gearsets and you just have to ask for a street hardened set, or not at your high power levels and possible racing applications as that may lock you into the soft gearsets that wear out. He would be the man to ask though, he's a real helpful nice guy to speak with and order gearsets from. (y):cool:
 

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I'm not sure if V & H made their own straight cut second gear sets or had a vendor like Robinson Industries, Inc. 644 Middle Country Road Suite 10, St James, NY 11780-3231 make them - I learned from Bill Robinson that they make soft and hardened 2nd straight cut gearsets for the Revo, soft for short duration drag racing & hard launches which absorb the higher sudden stress better and don't crack which may be what you have. Hardened for longer mileage street ridden bikes that resist pitting and spalling for a much longer time which is what I ordered. You may want to contact him I'll look for the phone number, but guys like Vreeland's and Fitzgerald's may already sell his gearsets and you just have to ask for a street hardened set, or not at your high power levels and possible racing applications as that may lock you into the soft gearsets that wear out. He would be the man to ask though, he's a real helpful nice guy to speak with and order gearsets from. (y):cool:
I forgot that they made 2 versions. What is the "street" version made of? I ask as the solution usually is a high grade billet replacement (which once again I know where you can get such a masterpiece made). My fear however is you might need to replace ALL the gears if you go to strong a 2nd gear......time and money.....
 

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freudie1 & Karzza - so I just spent 30 minutes looking thru all my 3 ring binders for the gear material research and just couldn't find it - in any event I'm going off memory and saying the gear material may be the same ( or different ) but I do know that heat treatment is required for the street set at least, he builds up a minimum order then sends a batch to the heat treater, as I waited a while for mine. I'm thinking nitriding or case hardening for the meshing surface of the gears at a minimum, they have that black look like tool steel. In any event contact Bill Robinson directly for the latest straight info at [email protected] or 631-360-9219 he's an absolute M/C transmission Guru with Revo & Destroyer sets, Hayabusa and other metric trick gear sets with different ratios, shafts, auto shifting without air shifters, gear micropolishing etc. (y):cool: P.S. No, you shouldn't have to replace all the gears just the 2nd gearset all the other gears seem to handle it - at least for mortal engine builders below 150 Hp like myself - you 300 Hp + guys are on your own !! (y):cool:
 

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If my records are correct Robinson street gears are made of 9310 steel and are case hardened. Race version is made of 4340 and case hardened too. Lesser released and therefore harder.

I have used street version they are still ok. Good price / quality value.
 

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mukle - good to know that the street version holds up, even under high Hp & Tq conditions. But how long and I wonder what the dividing line is to decide which one to run ? I'm thinking dedicated drag bike would of course be race version gearset with constant hard launches & quick loading / shifting but low mileage use - but lots of drag bikes don't have anywhere near 300 Hp like you guys' street / strip engines so should you run the softer race version to avoid cracking & breaking the gears and then worry about gear teeth pitting ? If the street gears hold up for your high Hp / Tq then how long in service before cracks develop ? Mandatory replacement schedule or magnaflux to check for cracks developing at engine teardown ? Seems the case hardening of either race or strip gearsets would equally resist wear and pitting but maybe the flexibility of the race gearset contributes to eventual breakdown of the case hardening where the street gearset resists that but eventually cracks and fails from cyclic fatigue of the harder gear base metal. Just thinking out loud here for you guys, I'm good with the street set but I've got 1/2 your power output. (y):cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #611 ·
Did order the new street-gears from Bill. Actually I’m his regular customer since having Robinson 4-speed auto full billet in Funnybike and ruining at least couple of tranny per season. He is very helpful person and for example advised me how to repair weld the dogs. Have also bought undercut milling blades from him.
Cameras & optics Camera accessory Camera lens Gas Audio equipment

Milling Machine tool Gas Machine Metal


Wheel Automotive tire Tire Bicycle part Rim
 

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Very cool high tech stuff ! I saw all those metric bike trick tranny parts on his website - All in the cost of going extremely fast in a short distance !! Please post quick photo of your Mad Scientist of Speed Funnybike again here Karzza - unfortunately V Rod is relegated to only a pit bike for that full on race machine - :cool:
 

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Two 2003 VRSCA's: CTHULHU is Black/Sterling, N/A ; EVIL TWIN is Anodized and S/C
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Karzza, that's you!?! I think you are in my #VRodDragRacing group! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #614 ·
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Discussion Starter · #615 ·
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the upper is 10years old V&H and lower is Robinson. I ordered the Robinson gear on Tuesday and had in hand 4500miles away on Friday, throught customs etc. DHL Express runs like Oil.
 
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Discussion Starter · #617 ·

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Two 2003 VRSCA's: CTHULHU is Black/Sterling, N/A ; EVIL TWIN is Anodized and S/C
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Interesting...I've only ever taken an Ironhead transmission apart. I probably won't be digging into my V-Rod to put a 2nd in until August. Still doing research.

Automotive tire Rim Gas Circle Pattern
 

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Discussion Starter · #619 · (Edited)
Did also receive the stiffer wrist pins for Mukle an myself. They are made from 9310 steel vs CP standard 5100 chromoly. We are reducing the weight from 113g to 102g by grinding cones inside the pin. The design is the same I have in Funnybike (220rwhp/cyl). Standard CP pin is 98g, some unbalancing has to be accepted. Solution for bushings is still open, but will be something BeCu related.
Gas Rim Auto part Circle Household hardware
 
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