all or nothing
The clutch switch is a pressure switch, purposed to use for brake lights. It is from time I was teasing the bike at drag strips.Would you explain how the clutch switch and front suspension operate , please ?
Sorry fo the late reply.Hi Karzza,
Have been following your threads and posts closely seeing as you seem to have a wealth of knowledge on turbocharging the VROD.
I was wondering if you can provide me with a few answers to my questions.
1. What turbo would you recommend for a standard 1250 looking to make approx. 200hp at the rear on 8-9 PSI of boost. Was looking at the GT2860 with a .42 rear housing. Or maybe even a GT2554. What do you think the best option would be here including turbine housing size? Internal or externally gated.
2. What injectors do you you recommend that can be used with the standard fuel rail at this power level? I see that you have tested quite a few sets.
Thanks and much appreciated.
I decided to open a new topic to entertainment you with my 2nd edition engine build and
raise some useful discussion up about a Revolution pushed to it's limit in street use.
My target is [email protected] 185 [email protected], but especially I'm trying to improve reliability, which has been the problem. I'm fustrated to open the engine every 3000km.
So, here we go....
CP Pistons are the old ones, driven 6000km. There are couple of scratches in a skirt because of flying bearing pieces in the engine. They are measured and polished to prevent carbon building to the top. Compression ratio is a mandatory in my case.
Has somebody seen somewhere forged pistons for 4.25" (12:1, 1/4" stroker offset pin)?
New piston rings and at this time end plays are adjusted smaller than previously.
oil ring 0.35mm
Old K1 rods, new bolts. There are marks of flattened and spread pin bushings under pressure. Pin clearances are still okay, but too narrow or soft pin bushings will be a problem in the future. Better pushing material will be needed some day.
Wiseco cylinder liners are used ones. They are measured and re-honed to RA12 recarding CP's instruction for Ductile moly rings.
Falicon 3/8" stroker full circle crank. As I know there are two types of Falicon full circle ctranks in the market.
The other one is with an open rod pin and an other one with blugged rod pin, like mine. How are oil drillings when the rod pin is nod blugged. Does somebody know what is a backround for changes?
Thanks. I’t nice someone is intrested about this classic build. Actually a local American Iron Magazine wrote an article about the bike some months ago. The headliline was "hi-tech Harely", but in nowadays scale it is far beyond from hi-tech. My Funnybike is a high tech in a global level at the moment.The man, the myth, the legend! Was just telling somebody about your build a few weeks ago, thanks for keeping this thread alive!!