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Discussion Starter · #581 ·
I'm still in the business :D

A home made piston for front air suspension. A front height can be adhysted by 3½"

 

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Discussion Starter · #582 ·
Handlebar wiring starts to be like from a moon racket. The chromed switch housings are from Ultra Glide with four additional switches.

Clutch switch for launch control
Turn signal mirrors
Air suspension up/down front
Air suspension up/down rear
V-gauge menu controls
V-gauge
normal warning lights


 

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Discussion Starter · #584 ·
Would you explain how the clutch switch and front suspension operate , please ?
The clutch switch is a pressure switch, purposed to use for brake lights. It is from time I was teasing the bike at drag strips.

The air piston is replacing part of the metal pipe between spring and end cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #585 ·
Made a new air ride supply.unit with a bigger compressor than Arnott has. There is magnetic valves for front and rear air rides. All aluminum or stainless.








 

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Discussion Starter · #586 ·
Made a stainless sscoop. Not so neat :banghead: have to think, leave it or throw it away.

 

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Discussion Starter · #588 ·
I have an alcohol injection, 85% Ethanol (E85) :D
Seriously talking, one option is to reject the ugly inter cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #589 ·
Received finally a new front wheel. The next is to made a tiny fender.

 

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wow, compliments this bike is a beast.
One question,what power step did you have to start using the E85 fuel? Would it be possible to use normal gas by lowering the compression ratio with low compression pistons and a thicker head seal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #591 ·
This 1487cc motor has always had 10.5 compression, done by opening combustion chambers and 0.060" head gaskets. Ran 242 rwhp with pump 98RON gas and currently around 300rwhp with 106RON E85. Have changed cams, butterflies, turbo, cooler, charge pipes, exhaust primaries etc between those numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #592 ·
Off topic again, but that’s my last winter project. It is complete new self made methanol funny bike with high electricied functions. At the moment it is tuned to 630hp at 1.6bar. Final will be 800hp.






 

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Discussion Starter · #593 ·
...did also a new saddle for T-Rod. It is 5th saddle for this bike.

 

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Hi Karzza,

Have been following your threads and posts closely seeing as you seem to have a wealth of knowledge on turbocharging the VROD.

I was wondering if you can provide me with a few answers to my questions.

1. What turbo would you recommend for a standard 1250 looking to make approx. 200hp at the rear on 8-9 PSI of boost. Was looking at the GT2860 with a .42 rear housing. Or maybe even a GT2554. What do you think the best option would be here including turbine housing size? Internal or externally gated.

2. What injectors do you you recommend that can be used with the standard fuel rail at this power level? I see that you have tested quite a few sets.

Thanks and much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #595 ·
Hi Karzza,

Have been following your threads and posts closely seeing as you seem to have a wealth of knowledge on turbocharging the VROD.

I was wondering if you can provide me with a few answers to my questions.

1. What turbo would you recommend for a standard 1250 looking to make approx. 200hp at the rear on 8-9 PSI of boost. Was looking at the GT2860 with a .42 rear housing. Or maybe even a GT2554. What do you think the best option would be here including turbine housing size? Internal or externally gated.

2. What injectors do you you recommend that can be used with the standard fuel rail at this power level? I see that you have tested quite a few sets.

Thanks and much appreciated.
Sorry fo the late reply.
1. GT2554R is the optimal. An Internal gate is great.
2. Destroyer injectors, Walbro 255lph and Bosch 5bar regulator.
 

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I decided to open a new topic to entertainment you with my 2nd edition engine build and
raise some useful discussion up about a Revolution pushed to it's limit in street use.
My target is [email protected] 185 [email protected], but especially I'm trying to improve reliability, which has been the problem. I'm fustrated to open the engine every 3000km.

So, here we go....

CP Pistons are the old ones, driven 6000km. There are couple of scratches in a skirt because of flying bearing pieces in the engine. They are measured and polished to prevent carbon building to the top. Compression ratio is a mandatory in my case.

Has somebody seen somewhere forged pistons for 4.25" (12:1, 1/4" stroker offset pin)?

New piston rings and at this time end plays are adjusted smaller than previously.

1st 0.60mm
2nd 0.70mm
oil ring 0.35mm

Old K1 rods, new bolts. There are marks of flattened and spread pin bushings under pressure. Pin clearances are still okay, but too narrow or soft pin bushings will be a problem in the future. Better pushing material will be needed some day.





Wiseco cylinder liners are used ones. They are measured and re-honed to RA12 recarding CP's instruction for Ductile moly rings.






Falicon 3/8" stroker full circle crank. As I know there are two types of Falicon full circle ctranks in the market.
The other one is with an open rod pin and an other one with blugged rod pin, like mine. How are oil drillings when the rod pin is nod blugged. Does somebody know what is a backround for changes?

"target is [email protected] 185 [email protected], but especially I'm trying to improve reliability"
Hmmm..what is known as an oxymoron (a figure of speech which contradicts itself)
I'm not disrespecting you. All the best in your project. You'll definitely be one of the most knowledgeable people on V-Rod engines and what work and what doesn't.
Wicked looking bike BTW.....:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #597 ·
Here we go at the track. 2nd in FHRA serie 2019. T-Rod is still in weekly street use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #598 · (Edited)
Did rip down the engine, driven around 10.000km on street, since the last overhaul 10y ago. Nothing was wrong in the bike, but wanted to seen how coated crank bearings are doing. The crank bearings are perfect, but I found some headgasket leak and pitting in the straight cut 2nd gears. The wrist pin problem was known from the last overhaul and it will be solved now with Mukle.
Thinking to leave the balancer shaft off to minimise related broblems. Has someone been using Falicon 3/8” full circle w/o balancer on street, is it vibrating too much to keep teeth and screws on board?
Serveware Dishware Tableware Artifact Material property

Wheel Tire Furniture Automotive tire Cabinetry

Rectangle Wood Gas Tints and shades Metal
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive engine gasket Rim
 

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The man, the myth, the legend! Was just telling somebody about your build a few weeks ago, thanks for keeping this thread alive!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #600 · (Edited)
The man, the myth, the legend! Was just telling somebody about your build a few weeks ago, thanks for keeping this thread alive!!
Thanks. I’t nice someone is intrested about this classic build. Actually a local American Iron Magazine wrote an article about the bike some months ago. The headliline was "hi-tech Harely", but in nowadays scale it is far beyond from hi-tech. My Funnybike is a high tech in a global level at the moment.
Wheel Tire Fuel tank Vehicle Motor vehicle

Tire Vehicle Wheel Motor vehicle Publication
 
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