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"A" is the only way
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, from what I heard when the whole deal went down which is I heard a clink on the alt side, then the motor quit and as I was pulling over to the side of the road steam started coming out. So I'm pretty sure the clink I heard was the valve coming off the stem and then all hell broke loose. Then the reason the motor was locked up was because it was full of coolant.
 

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Color me Gone
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Nic what cams were you running in this engine?
 

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Max said:
Nic what cams were you running in this engine?
Max, I believe it was the Megacycle 480's from the last I talked to Nic.

Nic, with the liner damage it may be time to start the look for a 1250 kit. What was the valve to piston clearance when you built it?
 

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"A" is the only way
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah it was the mega cycle 480,450 cams. Ferrea valve springs, titanium retainers


Here are some more pictures, I couldn't get them loaded w/ the other pictures for some reason?

The intake was hitting the piston then, I guess I learned my lesson the hard way about checking clearance, will always check it from now on.:banghead: :banghead:
 

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"A" is the only way
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
chrome said:
man that sucks nic.......those pics make me wanna puke.
If you think you want to puke man I'm still sick to my stomach. Only got to ride it twice.
 

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"A" is the only way
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
also, that valve lash on the rear when I first checked it was .017" on the one that is broke now and limit is .0096" to .0078" and other intake was .018. But I got them back into the limits both were at .009". but I'm wondering if this was pointing at a problem as it was ran like this on a dyno the first time.
 

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nic_a_bod said:
If you think you want to puke man I'm still sick to my stomach. Only got to ride it twice.
nic i cant even imagine how you feel......how much do you think it will cost to get it running.
 

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Color me Gone
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Nic when they break like that there is no way to check the valve lash. You can only check the lash on good valves, bent and broken valves don't apply.
 

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The Hawk
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What did the cam chains look like? Could have broken a chain to start the event off. When your alternator wheel was loose did anything happen to cause the valve to kiss the piston and tweak it some? Normally valves do not just come apart like that without some help from contact with the piston or other object. Your setup is pretty unique, maybe not enough piston to valve clearance with that cam? Just brainstorming here to see what could have caused the explosion.

Mike
 

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"A" is the only way
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Max said:
Nic when they break like that there is no way to check the valve lash. You can only check the lash on good valves, bent and broken valves don't apply.

No that was the valve lash when first checked it before I put the cam cover back on and back in the bike. That was what I got from v-mod, so I had to get new shims and all and redo it again. I never changed anything on the heads when I got the motor back the first time.
 

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"A" is the only way
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
cam chains looked fine, I never took any wire down the plug hole and checked the clearance that way. The piston was below the deck at tdc so I figured all was good. I haven't pulled the front head off, but the valves look good on the intake side yet.
 

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"A" is the only way
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Oh just to give plug for cp, for any of you that had doubt in the quality of their pistons from the group buy because of price was cheap, I bet a stock one would of had holes in it.
 

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"A" is the only way
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm going through franks thread as it seems like the same deal to me here is one quote I find interesting

BAD V-R said:
So far the opinion of a few 'experts' I spoke with that have seen the damage believe the valve seat broke or fell first. They also tell me that such a failure is very rare on OEM heads and seats, but fairly common once a seat has been replaced. From everything I have learned in the past few days, it looks like I will go back with another OEM Destroyer head and valve setup. While it is all open I will go ahead and remove the front head as well and replace both head gaskets with .030 material.

What I will need to get back to where I was:
Complete Destroyer head assembly (bored for 12mm studs).
4.25" cylinder sleeve.
4.25" 12:1 CP piston and rings with .063" wrist pin offset.
2 4.25: head gaskets.
2 intake tappets.
possible new shim sizes.
plus various gaskets and fluids.
 

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Color me Gone
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Nic all your valve seats appear intact, Franks motor had one come out. I'm guessing not enough clearance and your valve bounced off the piston for some reason, the intakes are larger so they usually hit first. I honestly don't see Franks deal as the same. Valves breaking look like valves breaking but there was no doubt his had a seat fail, it came out of the hole and was in pieces. Again your picture shows all the seats to still be in place.
 

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"A" is the only way
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Max said:
Nic all your valve seats appear intact, Franks motor had one come out. I'm guessing not enough clearance and your valve bounced off the piston for some reason, the intakes are larger so they usually hit first.
Will see what the front looks like when I get that off and go from there.
 
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