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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 06 D with a 200 rear. I am going to be replacing the shocks soon and want to go as low as i can with out resorting to air ride. Has anybody ever tried these shocks on a Rod? Are there fittment issues other than possible tire rubbing?
 

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durata membro
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Just depends on what style and year from the Dyna as far as fitment.11 inches is to short for all around cruising.
The 06 DWG has a nice looking set that are 12 inches.or the 12 inch billet shocks from Harley for the Dyna are real nice.
 

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So dyna shocks will fit a Vrod? What other shocks from other models shocks will fit also?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input! I ended up ordering an 11" set from a different company. They are supposed to be a bit stiffer so that may help some. They were decent price so if they dont do what i want then i can flip em.
 

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durata membro
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Does anyone have the progressive part # for the 11.5" 412s that will fit a a 2011 vrscdx? thanks
here's what they list.http://www.progressivesuspension.com/prodSearchResults.aspx?yearID=2011&makeID=37&modelID=1041

You guys trying these short shocks should just get a take off set from a Sportster,or a Dyna and try them before you spend a pile of money on shocks that are to short for all around riding.
I'll bet you can get a set for 50 bucks.You can also have your existing shocks cut for $70 at Skullmanonline.He does excellent work.I have another set of SE shocks ready to send out to him now.
 

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So if I get some stock shocks from a dyna it will lower my bike an inch, right?

I want to know because my friend is swaping the stock shocks of his dyna for some 11" progressive shocks and he will give me his stck ones if they fit my vrod
 

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durata membro
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So if I get some stock shocks from a dyna it will lower my bike an inch, right?

I want to know because my friend is swaping the stock shocks of his dyna for some 11" progressive shocks and he will give me his stck ones if they fit my vrod


You need 12 inch shocks to lower a V-Rod and still have enough clearance to ride the bike in the different conditions there are.Dyna models,just like the different V-Rod models,use different length shocks.The 2 best shocks to use on a V-Rod from a Dyna are the 06 DWG,and the Billet shocks that Harley sells.Any of the other Dyna takeoffs are not so great mainly because they are ugly as hell,just like Sportster shocks.You can have shocks shortened cheap.I buy mine used.The SE's I am having done will have a total of $130 invested.There is just no way in hell I would spend hundreds of dollars on a set of shocks unless they would blow me everytime I needed a blow job.
12 inchers will lower the rear appr 1 inch.The the front needs the same treatment.There are a few different ways to go about lowering the front.Like the stupid expensive aftermarket rear shocks,personally,I don't need all the fancy expensive emulator systems.I use the Progressive lowering kit and it works fine for me.
 

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You need 12 inch shocks to lower a V-Rod and still have enough clearance to ride the bike in the different conditions there are.Dyna models,just like the different V-Rod models,use different length shocks.The 2 best shocks to use on a V-Rod from a Dyna are the 06 DWG,and the Billet shocks that Harley sells.Any of the other Dyna takeoffs are not so great mainly because they are ugly as hell,just like Sportster shocks.You can have shocks shortened cheap.I buy mine used.The SE's I am having done will have a total of $130 invested.There is just no way in hell I would spend hundreds of dollars on a set of shocks unless they would blow me everytime I needed a blow job.
12 inchers will lower the rear appr 1 inch.The the front needs the same treatment.There are a few different ways to go about lowering the front.Like the stupid expensive aftermarket rear shocks,personally,I don't need all the fancy expensive emulator systems.I use the Progressive lowering kit and it works fine for me.
You can also just lower the fork tubes in the triple trees by 1" to match the back if you lower it by an inch.
 

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durata membro
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You can also just lower the fork tubes in the triple trees by 1" to match the back if you lower it by an inch.
This won't accomplish much for the mushy front end.V-Rods have way to much travel in the front to work correctly.This has to be changed in order for the chassis to perform in coordination with lowering.
Plus sliding the front up and having it hang out the top clamp looks terrible.With the Ness brackets in the rear and the tubes hanging out the top clamp is a poor mans lowering kit.
 

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This won't accomplish much for the mushy front end.V-Rods have way to much travel in the front to work correctly.This has to be changed in order for the chassis to perform in coordination with lowering.
Plus sliding the front up and having it hang out the top clamp looks terrible.With the Ness brackets in the rear and the tubes hanging out the top clamp is a poor mans lowering kit.
Save your breath I use none of the methods described above.

You do not have to change the springs in the front if you lower the back a mere 1". The rule of thumb is what you do to the rear you do to the front and you'll be just fine.

Oh ya that 1" above the triple tree just ruins to look of the bike altogether. FYI, I know tons of drag racers who use the lowering of the fork tubes to get their bikes as low as possible on race weekends.

For a mere $ 70.00 you can have your rear V-Rod shocks cut down and then lower the fork tubes 1" for free. Capice?
 

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durata membro
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Save your breath I use none of the methods described above.

You do not have to change the springs in the front if you lower the back a mere 1". The rule of thumb is what you do to the rear you do to the front and you'll be just fine.

Oh ya that 1" above the triple tree just ruins to look of the bike altogether. FYI, I know tons of drag racers who use the lowering of the fork tubes to get their bikes as low as possible on race weekends.

For a mere $ 70.00 you can have your rear V-Rod shocks cut down and then lower the fork tubes 1" for free. Capice?
So I take it you don't particularly care for me from that answer.
Whether you do or not,sliding the tubes up in the clamp makes no difference in the movement of the lowers.There will still be 3 inches or so of travel unless a strap is used,so nothing is gained for launching.I still don't like the looks of the tube sticking up more than a few thousandths of an inch.
I know about the shock shortening pretty well.If you remember,I got Dan involved in the forum a few years ago after he did a couple for me.His shock work is excellent,especially since he stopped using the factory rubber bushings in the sporty shocks that squashed out.
 

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If anyone out there has concerns regarding a " mushy " front end you can always replace the current fork oil with SE.

This alone will stiffen your ride up and you can still run your stock springs.

Some might even find this to stiff to jump from approximately a 7 weight to a 20.

There are forks oils out there in the 15 weight range or I've heard of people mixing the stock fork oil with the SE oil 50/50 for a middle of the road compromise.
 

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Back in Black
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I have skullman 11.5 shocks progressive lowering and se oil on my 04 with a 200.
Its "low" I scrape in curves have replaced radiator bezels because they get hung. Hard to get in trailer etc. My 07 has 12 inch progressive Thats the way I would go 11.5 is really pushing it 11 good luck it will be more hassle than it's worth
 

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Dragon
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I have an 06 D with a 200 rear. I am going to be replacing the shocks soon and want to go as low as i can with out resorting to air ride. Has anybody ever tried these shocks on a Rod? Are there fittment issues other than possible tire rubbing?
i ride w/11" shocks and a 200 tire. put them on and cut off anything that rubs.
 

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